NH 240TL loader Diverter valve

[6sunset6]

The TC 34DA only takes 2 remote pairs. The TC35DA and up I assume takes 3. The Fasse diverter valve kit I bought was $600 and the Dealer made up $45 in parts and 4 hoses. Fasse had to send an extention cable.
I really like the selector button on the joy stick. Don't know if I answered your question.

 

[6sunset6]

Another missing reply Sent it gone somewhere.
The TC34DA only takes 2 remotes I got them when I bought the tractor $1500 for both. The Fasse diverter was $600 and a fair amount of figuiring out. But it came out all right and I really like the buttons on the joystick. There are two, one momentery and one toggle. I have an angle plow and a thumb on my bucket.
whoops well I said the same thing a little different.

 

[horse7]

Another missing reply Sent it gone somewhere.
The TC34DA only takes 2 remotes I got them when I bought the tractor $1500 for both. The Fasse diverter was $600 and a fair amount of figuiring out. But it came out all right and I really like the buttons on the joystick. There are two, one momentery and one toggle. I have an angle plow and a thumb on my bucket.
whoops well I said the same thing a little different.

Yes, thanks, that gives me the general idea. I think the NH parts run about 700+ with the rest labor-- the hardest labor part seems to be something about a sump drain having to be 3 vs. 2 SCV support, which as it turns out has a factory option code (but you can't buy 3 remotes from the factory for a TN, the 3rd is presently field installation only. So I presume the option is for setup rather than toss out one part and replace it with the other before attaching the rest of the parts. Or maybe I simply don't understand the factory option code list ).

My joystick has 2 buttons, that I presume are for the (nonexistent) front diverter/hydraulics/whatever might be added in front. The buttons could be pirated for the Fasse or similar setup, but it doesn't sound like the difference in cost is all that much considering how long I'd have to poke at the problem-- and this is an already solved problem, I'd much rather solve a problem that hasn't been solved before.

Now I have to decide I if the 3rd remote is truly necessary... the 3rd certainly doesn't seem to add to resale from back when I was looking to buy used (no remotes was a Bad Thing for resale. 2 was a bit better than 1. More than 2 didn't seem to result in higher resale from what I could tell so the 3rd and up has to earn its own way)

 

[6sunset6]

I hate when I do this. I wrote this whole thing last night and forgot to submit.
So here it is again.
Yeoooow Was plowing snow , using toggle on the joystick to hold the diverter valve on for angle on the plow. All of a sudden the plow and everything else was 8 feet in the air. The LED on the joy stick was studdering. Seems like curl took over from angle and maybe I jerked back on the joystick. Got everything down , LED still studdering which let curl work but not the plow angle. Got it back to the barn , wiggled all the connectors and it seemed to go away. I have a couple of butt splices in the 12v supply. Ground return is a crimped on ring on a stud. Have to check that crimp as well. Think I will solder them and then wait and see.

 

[RickB]

From my viewpoint, adding a third rear remote to your TN/A is not a big deal. I have added maybe a half dozen additional valves to TN's over the years; I think all have been installed on-site regardless of whether the tractor was cabbed or open station. The sump return is simply a short external tube that is specific to the number of valve slices in the stack. It is to the right of your toplink storage bracket.

 

[6sunset6]

Ref two post back Studdering led. ( and sudden lack of control of diverter valve. Finally got to look at it after a while I found it. Ground. The point I used for ground looked like a good place , but it looks like it is a plate that is not tied down well somewhere else.
Does anyone know where the main chasis ground points are on a TC 34DA ?
Probably the same for 10 different models. Schematic shows 2 main ground lugs . I could probably find them but it is easier to ask when I am in for lunch.

 

[6sunset6]

Never mind Found the battery ground on the frame. Found another bolt on the frame. Ran jumber from Frame to my intermiitant stud. Fixed. Wonder why it ever worked at all.