NH 250TL Leaking Boom Lift Cylinder

[dieselscout80]

One boom lift cylinder on my TC45DA’s 250TL loader (quick attach loader mount to tractor) is leaking enough that I can’t ignore it.

The loader has to be dismounted to remove the rear lower cylinder pins.

**My question having never dismounted a quick attach loader is when it is dismounted will removing one boom lift cylinder cause it to sag/twist enough to make remounting it difficult?

If it does I guess I will have to make a support to keep it level.

The attached picture shows the cylinder pin in question that removal is blocked by the black loader mast rear mount. It has snap rings on the pins inside the black mast that can’t be removed until it is dismounted.

Here’s a video of dismounting it and remounting it.

I first posted this in the NH forum but didn’t get any responses.

250TL Boom Lift Cylinder Reseal??

One boom lift cylinder on my TC45DA’s 250TL loader (quick attach loader mount to tractor) is leaking enough that I can’t ignore it. I have the seal kit on order. I was hoping to loosen the cylinder end cap while the cylinder was still mounted on the loader. Then just unpin the cylinder take it...

www.tractorbynet.com

 

[Harry in Ky]

You're looking at it, I'm not. That said, you may be looking at way more work than necessary. Many of us have installed seals in many different cylinders, tractor loader lift cylinders included. Whenever possible I don't remove the cylinder from the unit. Just raise the loader and prop it up on something (often just the bucket or bale spear tilted down) so it rests firmly on the ground with engine off and valves cycled back and forth a few times for pressure relief. Remove the hoses from both ports so oil can escape and air can enter both ports. Remove the gland nut then the rod end pin. Pull the rod, piston and gland nut out as a unit for repair leaving the barrel hanging on the machine. I've done that literally hundreds of times with good success.

If you have a need to remove the barrel for some reason, then that's different story.

Lift Cylinder | New Holland Agriculture | MyCNH US Store

Find schematics, manuals, specifications and diagrams for LIFT CYLINDER. Find genuine OEM parts for your needs.

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[dieselscout80]

You're looking at it, I'm not. That said, you may be looking at way more work than necessary. Many of us have installed seals in many different cylinders, tractor loader lift cylinders included. Whenever possible I don't remove the cylinder from the unit. Just raise the loader and prop it up on something (often just the bucket or bale spear tilted down) so it rests firmly on the ground with engine off and valves cycled back and forth a few times for pressure relief. Remove the hoses from both ports so oil can escape and air can enter both ports. Remove the gland nut then the rod end pin. Pull the rod, piston and gland nut out as a unit for repair leaving the barrel hanging on the machine. I've done that literally hundreds of times with good success.

If you have a need to remove the barrel for some reason, then that's different story.

Lift Cylinder | New Holland Agriculture | MyCNH US Store

Find schematics, manuals, specifications and diagrams for LIFT CYLINDER. Find genuine OEM parts for your needs.

www.mycnhstore.com

Interesting

Do you think might be possible to pull the barrel end off and then reseal the rod and the barrel end.

The issue I see is re-mating rod and the barrel while the rod is hanging off the loader. The rod is the end that can’t be disconnected while the loader is mounted.

Do you think it would be possible to reinsert the rod into the barrel while the rod is still attached without damaging the seals?

 

[Harry in Ky]

I don't see why not. It wouldn't be that much different. With the rod end still anchored it will easy to break the nut loose so the piston can be removed. Still a lot less work than what you're facing by removing the loader, propping things up from all directions and totally removing the cylinder.

 

[dieselscout80]

I don't see why not. It wouldn't be that much different. With the rod end still anchored it will easy to break the nut loose so the piston can be removed. Still a lot less work than what you're facing by removing the loader, propping things up from all directions and totally removing the cylinder.

So you DO think with the loader removed it will sag once the cylinder is removed.

I think I could hold it up with my engine hoist.

 

[Harry in Ky]

I think detaching the loader and removing the entire cylinder is the wrong way to go. You're turning a two hour job into three day's work. If that's your choice, then go for it