NH - Boomer Gotta Know Info

[John_Mc]

This thread is intended to document common problems, gotchas, or things to look out for on the New Holland compacts. Fixes, if any are known, should also be posted here. Hopefully, this will help prospective buyers and owners alike.

Several people have suggested a thread along these lines, no one has started one. I'm far from expert, but have heard / experienced a few problems on my TC33D. I'll mention those, as well as a few others I recall to get the ball rolling. I'm not trying to start a NH-bashing thread. I'm very happy with my tractor so far. Forewarned is forearmed, however, and I'd like to know what to look for before the warranty runs out.

I've posted the problems I'm aware of as separate messages, so that someone who wants to follow off a given subthread will have an easier time when lookiing in "Threaded" mode. Any of you with more known issues, please post them. If you think of it, modifying the title of your post will make things easier for others to track down. If you have clarifications or corrections to what I posted, please bring them up.

John_Mc

Edit: In retrospect, maybe this thread should have been started in the NH Owning/Operating forum, but it's here now, and I'm not about to copy it all to another forum.

 

[John_Mc]

Re: NH - Leaking Battery Acid

"Leaking" battery acid. Apparently a good number of the NH compacts have been sold with the battery overfilled. It eventually leaks out (running on a hill, or when things get hot and expand. It can cause some nasty corrosion. The fix is easy: just remove some of the fluid. Be sure to check this, or have your dealer check when purchasing a new tractor. I've heard of this on both class II and III boomers. I'd assume it happens on class I as well.

John_Mc

 

[John_Mc]

Re: Neutral Safety Switch

Safety Interlock on Range Shift Out of adjustment? Known to affect class II "D" (w/HST) tractors (maybe others as well). I've got this problem on my TC33D. There is a safety interlock which prevents starting the tractor when the range lever is not in neutral. There are two neutral positions the one one between I and II (the forwardmost one) and the one between I and III (the rear most one). The tractor always turns over when starting in the rearmost neutral. It turns over less than 10% of the time I leave it in the forwardmost neutral. Since it is sometimes difficult to shift gear ranges when the engine is not running, this can be a real pain in the butt. Workaround: always leave your tractor in the rearmost neutral position (between range I and III) when shutting down. I've heard this can be fixed by making some adjustment to the neutral safety switch, but have not tried it yet.

John_Mc

 

[John_Mc]

Re: Instument Panel Fogs Up

Instrument Panel Fogs Up My TC33D has this problem. Have also heard of it on several class III boomers. Water/humidity gets inside the instrument panel and fogs it up under certain conditions. My concern is that this moisture could lead to premature failure of something in the instrument cluster (any thoughts on that possibility would be welcomed).

Spoke to dealer about it as I was picking up the tractor from service: their reaction indicated that I was not the first they'd heard of this. Got no clear response from them at the time. I've not heard of a definitive fix. someone suggested drilling a small drain hole to let condensation out. Does this work? Anyone know of any other good tricks for this one? Does replacing the instrument cluster help, or are you just as likely to have a problem with the new unit.

 

[John_Mc]

Re: Loose Bolts / Fittings

Loose Bolts or Fittings Several members have complained of having loose bolts or fittings in various places on brand new tractors. OK, this is not specific to NH tractors, but I felt it should be mentioned for new tractor owners. Check things out thoroughly BEFORE you drive it. This SHOULD have been checked by your dealer prior to delivery, but not all dealers do this, and sometimes things slip by even the best of dealers. I had problems with loose/leaking hydraulic fittings on my loader valve and power steering. It also cropped up my Top-N-Tilt when newly installed... one hose was only finger tight. Pehaps others will post specific problem areas or critical items to check.

Also: bolts can work loose over time. This is especially true of brand new equipment. Make a habit of periodically checking, especially on a new tractor, or after new equipment has been added. A little time now can save a lot of hassles down the road.

Remember, the answer to a loose bolt is NOT ALWAYS to get out your biggest wrench and tighten it as far as you possibly can. Check the torque specs when in doubt.

 

[John_Mc]

Re: \"Unapproved\" backhoes

NH will not give warranty coverage for damage caused by use of unnaproved backhoes There have been cases of tractors cracking in two from using a backhoe that is too large/powerful with a given tractor. This is not specific to NH compacts, but is mentioned due to the popularity of many aftermarket hoes, and NH's stance on warranty coverage. Be especially carefull if using a 3 pt hitch mount backhoe. Most of the NH compacts are designed for a subframe mount backhoe.

NOTE: Some NH litereature lists the NH 758C backhoe as approved for use on the NH class II compacts (TC25/25D, TC29/29D, TC33/33D). I have been told by my dealer that this is NOT correct, and that NH no longer approves the use of this backhoe on these tractors. Others have told me that their dealers have never heard of this, and that they are ordering the subframe kit to mount a 758C on a class II boomer. I suggest proceeding cautiously here, and get any assurances in writing from your dealer (and/or get it directly from NH).

John_Mc

 

[lblair]

Re: Neutral Safety Switch

I have this problem with my TC21D. When it turns over it kinda sounds like a car with a dead battery...clickity clickity clack! If i giggle the high/low lever around she grabs and starts. they adjusted it but it still does it now and then sometimes, but atleast i know what it is.
Larry

 

[nicklan]

How about the "RUNS COLD" symptom. I have had my TC40D about two weeks (or 9 hrs of run time) and if I run about 2100-2300 RPMs doing loader work around my pole-barns, the temp gauge almost makes to the "green" zone.(Outside temps being in the 40's). I have not reported this to my dealer yet, so I don't know they will say. I have read on this site about every thread regarding it though.
Thanks to all who make this an excellent site for new guys like me.
Nick

 

[tpaulson]

Re: NH - Cold Running

There are 2 common problems with Class III Boomers(TC35, TC40, TC45) running cool. I am not sure if the Class II Boomers have these problems also. My understanding is that Boomers should be at Normal operating temp (middle of the green section on the gauge) within 10 to 15 minutes regardless of the outside air temperature. An engine should not run cool for extended periods because of the increased wear that occurs. Before the dealer fixed the problem on my TC45 would just barely touch the bottom of the green after 2 hrs of hard use.

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Problem 1:
Coolant drain lines bypass the thermostat. There is a small (I think it is 5/16" dia) connecting hose from the block to the radiator so the antifreeze can be drained from a single petcock. If you are sitting on the tractor, it is on the right side of the engine. This hose can allow coolant to circulate from the block to the radiator without the engine warming up because it is bypassing the thermostat.

If your Boomer is currently running cool there is an easy test to see if it has this problem. Clamp off or pinch the drain line between the engine and radiator about midway between the radiator and drain petcock. Use a small c-clamp or vise grips to pinch the hose temporarily. Cover the jaws with something and be careful not to damage the hose when clamping. If the engine warms up quickly and stays running at normal temperature you have the drain line bypass problem.

The solution is to install a shutoff valve in the drain line. I have heard of 2 ways of doing this.

Method 1: Install a new fitting on the engine block that has a threaded plug that acts as a valve. This is what my dealer did to my TC45D and is apparently the NH recommended fix. This method is also suppose to fix the coolant leak problem where the fitting threads into the block.

Method 2: Insert a valve in the drain hose itself.
Picture courtesy of kcbarnes.

See this post for details of how to do this.
Post94047

<A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.tractorbynet.com/cgi-bin/compact/showthreaded.pl?Cat=&Board=nhown&Number=94097&page=&view=&sb=&o=&vc=1#Post94097>Post94097</A>

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Note: Apparently not all Boomers have a cool running problem. Which is supposedly the reason New Holland hasn’t started a campaign/recall to have them fixed. It also may be the case where the new tractors coming from the factory already have a fix in place. Also, I guess some non-Deluxe models don’t have a temperature gauge so the owners may not know the engine is running cool. My TC45D built in August 2001 still had the drain line bypass problem.

 

[tpaulson]

Re: NH - Coolant leak

Coolant leak on block drain fitting.
There is a threaded fitting on the block that has a drain hose attached. This fitting frequently leaks around the threads. A lot of times the leak appears when the engine is cold. This seems to be a problem on a lot of New Holland engines for many years. Several people have commented that the cause is because the block and fitting are made of different metals. These different metals have different expansion/contraction rates.

On my TC45D the dealer installed a different drain fitting on the block. The new fitting has a threaded plug that acts as a valve. This new fitting is also suppose to fix the cool running engine problem (drain lines bypassing the thermostat). This is apparently the NH recommended fix for the Class III Boomers.