NH Class II Warranty Issues (Fast Help Needed)

jinman · Jan 13, 2004

( Their solution is to just let it go and install an overrunning clutch ... )

I'm with you, Danny! This is like going to the doctor with a broken arm and he tells you he's gonna fix it by letting you wear a sling the rest of your life. It may take away the pain, but the real problem is still there. I think they could and should do a better job on this issue. /forums/images/graemlins/mad.gif

techinNY · Jan 14, 2004

Well I'll be, #443 indicates that the pto is direct drive from the engine, so it seems using an over running clutch is the fix. The only other solution is to be sure to push in the clutch when you want to stop. Let me do some thinking on this, because it still does not make any sense to me. I'm going to check & make sure, but I think there is only one shaft driven by the engine through the clutch. Power comes from the clutch into the hydro, the input shaft continues through the hydro to drive the input shaft for the pto, the mechanical coupler is engaged by the operator to engage the pto. When the operator releases the clutch pedal the input shaft for the hydro and the pto begin to turn because they are the same shaft. So pushing in the clutch would not disconnect power between the "flywheel" (mower) and the hydro. But the motion of the tractor is controlled through the angle of the swash plate in the hydro. So with that said it seems the mower pushing the tractor problem is or was in the hydro. Like I said , I will do some checking and get back to you. What NH said makes sense, but I don't think it really addresses the mower pushing the tractor.

Spencer · Jan 14, 2004

techinNY, thanks for looking into the issue. I'm glad you looked up the bulletin. I didn't want to post the bulletin here without permission. I will appreciate any advice or comments you come up with.

Spence

del · Jan 15, 2004

I would ditto the filling the filter business. I was taught
that from an old truck fleet mechanic 35 years ago. Your engine oil
filter on your car deserves the same treatment. Some filters
make this difficult of course, In my engine oil filters I usually
use 20/50 of the same brand in the filter if its a side mount.
You would be amazed at how much oil you can put in a filter
without it running out. You can usually fill them once or
twice and then watch while it disappears into the filtering medium.

I don't know if a hydraulic system would be affected as I can't
imagine they are designed to let the pump drain (maybe they
are).

He also packed his oil pumps with petroleum jelly so they
would start pumping quicker on a rebuilt engine if he couldn't
use his normal method, which was to find a way to turn the
oil pump manually or pump oil into an external oil gallery
plug so the new engine didn't have to wait as the new bearing
journals were wiped clean.

You're always going to have air somewhere in the system if
you change hydraulic attachments that don't have quick releases
or something to keep the fluid from departing the lines.

A pal of mine thinks I'm just being ****, filling filters, of
course he buys new vehicles about as often as I discard a pair
of jeans...

/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gifDE L/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

techinNY · Jan 16, 2004

According to the service manual, the drawing of the power flow for both pto's, mid and rear, the shaft that comes out the back of the hydro turns a counter gear that actually pivots on the output shaft from the hydro that drives the tractor. The counter gear has two sets of teeth, the front set that is driven, and the rear set that drives another gear that drives a shaft,......... you get the picture. If you are interested in seeing the two figures I am looking at, they are figure 5-107 and figure 5-112 in the 25 through TC33D service manual. I suppose there may have been enough friction between the counter gear and the output shaft to move the tractor, possibly caused by a low oil level, high temperature, or a bearing going bad. The funny thing is, according to NH, the parts that are in question in the bulletin are not the parts I am talking about. Maybe I am barking up the wrong tree or missing something in the drawings. I have seen my theory about this actually happen. The counter gear for the pto on a 445D pivots on the transmission output shaft. The pto input shaft is driven directly by the engine. The customer ran the rear end low on oil causing the counter gear to seize on the shaft. This gave the tractor drive with the transmission in neutral, and direct drive at that. I guess my point is that it is possible for the senario to happen, but if and why it did, I can't say for sure. I have not heard of this problem with any of our customers or until I read it here. As far as preventing it from happening, an over running clutch seems to be the only answer.

JerryG · Jan 16, 2004

techinNY,
Is there anyway that you can post the drawing?

BigMac · Jan 17, 2004

As far as the 3 point hitch lever being hard to move smoothly, I just encountered that problem this week with a TC33D that I was delivering. I noticed it also as I was going over the machine. There is nut that is closed down on a very tight spring at the end of that lever. With backing that nut off a little to release pressure off of the spring, it made a night and day difference. I am sure this should cure the problem. Good Luck

techinNY · Jan 22, 2004

No, sorry, I'm technolgically challenged. Don't have the proper equipment at home and probably be a hassle at work. /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif

AlanB · Mar 3, 2004

I mounted the over running clutch, but now have a problem.

The over running clutches that I find are not only over running, but also slip if under a high torque (read PHD) scenario.

My thought is that this is intentional, with a bush hog, the momentum of the cutter will keep it going, and it probably takes very little torque to keep it driving after it is up to speed. Where if you hit something, the overrunning clutch would also serve to save your driveline.

Anyway, I thought I could mount the thing and leave it on, but when I try and use it in conjunction with a phd it just slips.

I really do not want to take the thing on and off all the time. It is a pain to put in the roll pin.

I found the quick connect one at Hoyes, and may go that way, but would really rather have it mounted on my bush hog because that is where the problem lies.

Any suggestions?