No Brake Controller

[JB4310]

Well, since we're on the subject, not worth starting another thread for this question.

I was looking at my new to me equipment trailer wiring today and wanted to test my break away system, so I jacked up one side and spun the wheels and pulled the pin, they locked right up.
The question is does that break away battery get charged by the truck? The way the wiring looks to me is that there is no way the battery can get charged by the truck, since the hot wire from the battery goes thru the break away switch before it's tied into the black brake wire, the break away switch is normally open unless the pin is pulled, so as far as I can tell it's not being charged.

If so do you just check it periodically and replace every couple years?

Also on my truck when I check the 7 pin wireing socket, the pin in the 5 o'clock position is supposed to be the brake circuit, but it shows 12 volt all the time even with truck off, same as the pin in the 1 o'clock position. is this normal, everything works fine just trying to understand it a little better.

JB.

 

[J_J]

Well, since we're on the subject, not worth starting another thread for this question.

I was looking at my new to me equipment trailer wiring today and wanted to test my break away system, so I jacked up one side and spun the wheels and pulled the pin, they locked right up.
The question is does that break away battery get charged by the truck? The way the wiring looks to me is that there is no way the battery can get charged by the truck, since the hot wire from the battery goes thru the break away switch before it's tied into the black brake wire, the break away switch is normally open unless the pin is pulled, so as far as I can tell it's not being charged.

If so do you just check it periodically and replace every couple years?

Also on my truck when I check the 7 pin wiring socket, the pin in the 5 o'clock position is supposed to be the brake circuit, but it shows 12 volt all the time even with truck off, same as the pin in the 1 o'clock position. is this normal, everything works fine just trying to understand it a little better.

JB.

Sometime ago, I was researching the 7 pin plugs, and I remember that one of the explanations of the wiring for the 7 pin mentioned that you could wire up the plug to charge the small battery every time you pulled the trailer. It seems like the center pin is not used very much, and could be used for the battery charging setup. It would not take much amperage to keep that battery charged. The blue wire would tee of the switch, and with the pin pulled, the battery would feed 12 v to the blue wire going to the electric brakes. It would seem logical to add a charge to the battery whenever you used the trailer so as to have the breakaway capability when necessary. You can test the breakaway setup real easy, just hook a tough string to the pin, and drive down a dirt road real slow, and pull the pin. The brakes should lock up real fast. Then you know it will work on a hard road, in an emergency situation. Do any of you cross your safety chains and take all the slack out except for turning. I know some of you will say, Why do that. I can tell you later for those that don't know.

 

[JB4310]

J_J,
That battery is not used so maybe it doesn't need charging? it's just sitting there in a constant state of storage, it is a tiny little thing so shouldn't cost much.

As far as the chains, yes I cross them and twist them to take the slack out, learned that from the guys I bought my dump trailer from and have been doing it ever since. Also run the break away cable thru the spring keeper for the safety pin on both the ball and pintle couplers, just to keep it from getting hung up.

I did read somewhere just recently, some very strict guidelines for the safety chains, can't remember the exact specifications but thought at the time it would be very difficult to comply with what it said.

Tell us why crossing the chains is important, even though I do it, I'm not sure why, besides it looks neater.

JB.

 

[JB4310]

I think I may of guesed it, might have to do with what I read about those strict rules, preventing the tongue from dropping, with the chains crossed it would cradle the tongue?

I'll bet that's it.

 

[J_J]

I think I may of guesed it, might have to do with what I read about those strict rules, preventing the tongue from dropping, with the chains crossed it would cradle the tongue?

I'll bet that's it.

Yep, that is the purpose I once saw a trailer come off the ball and drop to the asphalt, and was trying to tear up the roadway. sparks all over the place , took him awhile to get the trailer under control.

 

[RobertN]

Also on my truck when I check the 7 pin wireing socket, the pin in the 5 o'clock position is supposed to be the brake circuit, but it shows 12 volt all the time even with truck off, same as the pin in the 1 o'clock position. is this normal, everything works fine just trying to understand it a little better.

JB.

I reference this page for wiring. Center plug is auxillary, or back up lights.

Marksrv.com 7 way wiring diagram page

# Color Gage Circuit Function connector interior
1 white 10 common ground [7 way connector]
2 blue 12 electric brake
3 green 14 tail/running lights
4 black 10 battery charge (+)
5 red 14 left turn/stop
6 brown 14 right turn/stop
7 yellow 14 auxiliary/back up
NOTE: #7 is the center terminal and currently is most commonly used for backup lights.

 

[Diamondpilot]

MidSouth, check with the good folks at www.randpcarriages.com for all you need. I really like them and the prices are great. Just put a brake kit on a customers trailer using one of his complete kits. Cost me under $220 including 2 day shipping for everything. I mean everything. He includes the brakes, drums, new bearings and races, new dust cap, trailer male plug, truck female plug, battery, brake-away, wiring, crimps, wire ties, and instructions. Its 100% complete.

Chris

 

[Diamondpilot]

Well, since we're on the subject, not worth starting another thread for this question.

I was looking at my new to me equipment trailer wiring today and wanted to test my break away system, so I jacked up one side and spun the wheels and pulled the pin, they locked right up.
The question is does that break away battery get charged by the truck? The way the wiring looks to me is that there is no way the battery can get charged by the truck, since the hot wire from the battery goes thru the break away switch before it's tied into the black brake wire, the break away switch is normally open unless the pin is pulled, so as far as I can tell it's not being charged.

If so do you just check it periodically and replace every couple years?

Also on my truck when I check the 7 pin wireing socket, the pin in the 5 o'clock position is supposed to be the brake circuit, but it shows 12 volt all the time even with truck off, same as the pin in the 1 o'clock position. is this normal, everything works fine just trying to understand it a little better.

JB.

Something is wired wrong or you have a short. As you look at the plug on your truck you should be like this:

1 o clock = 12 volts when vehicle is running
3 o clock = right turn
5 o clock = brake signal from brake controller (voltage will vary with setting)
7 o clock = ground
9 o clock = left turn
11 o clock = tail lights
center pin = reverse lights

As for the trailer wiring the 12 volt positive should go to the battery to keep it charged when the vehicle is on. The brake-away switch should have one side "t" into the brake circuit and the other side on the positive post on the battery. That way if the trailer becomes disconnected it allows power to go from the onboard battery to the brakes. Here is a good diagram of how it should be wired.

http://www.randpcarriages.com/tech/brakeinstall.html

Chris

 

[Soundguy]

Hmmm, I guess I have a different setup, then. Maybe it's because I have dual brakes? At any rate, the guy who built the trailer told me the wiring from the plug charged the battery and didn't have enough current to run the brakes by itself.

Naa.. like diamondpilot said.. the guy gave you bad info unfortunately.

kinda sad that he's building them and doesn't know simple electrical theory... oh well.. hopefully he was a much better welder than brake expert..

If you check your wireing.. you will find a 20-50a fuse, depending on your setup..

12v @ 20a is alot of watts... considering that little rinky dinky battery can't do too much for too long.. it just goes to show what he don't know.

soundguy

 

[Diamondpilot]

Naa.. like diamondpilot said.. the guy gave you bad info unfortunately.

kinda sad that he's building them and doesn't know simple electrical theory... oh well.. hopefully he was a much better welder than brake expert..

If you check your wireing.. you will find a 20-50a fuse, depending on your setup..

12v @ 20a is alot of watts... considering that little rinky dinky battery can't do too much for too long.. it just goes to show what he don't know.

soundguy

Yea, this guy is a sales man and not a trailer expert. If that were the case there would be no use for a brake controller, all you would need is a switch to activate the brakes. And if that were the way it was wired you would not be able to adjust the brakes because it would always be giving you battery voltage to the brakes. And now that I thing about it if the battery was wired to the brakes they would always be on. Boy, that guy was a idiot.

I think I would have it checked out to make sure its wired correctly. Who knows what he did. Most brake controllers can power 3 axles or 6 brakes so the only reason the battery is there is simply for emergency use in a brake-away situation. And all the law states is the battery must apply brakes for 15 minutes when disconnected from the vehicle so all it needs is that little battery.


Chris