No high range

[deepNdirt]

Me too. I have had this 'hack' on my YM240 so long I forgot about it. This bungee assists the weak detent spring/ball to stay in high range.

I took the bungee off when I bought the tractor to see what would happen. Nothing, until I was roading it fast down a rough dirt lane. When the driveline went slack lurching over a bump it slipped to Neutral a couple of times over a couple of months. That was scary going downhill. I put the bungee back on.

The hook slides down to the nut when the lever is forward (low range) so it has no effect there and doesn't tug the lever upward.

In seven years using this it hasn't jumped out of gear yet. Someday if I have to split the tractor I'll replace the detent spring/ball parts to get it right. Meanwhile - this simply works.

284 - I saw you were online and just remembered this, so I just now went out in the dark and took the picture.


View attachment 203391

back in the mid 70's I bought a '68 Plymouth Belvedere, from one time in what was called the rough side of down town Atlanta,
The car had been parked there unable to be driven for several months due to the throttle cable being broken, I was young at the time and didn't have the cash to tow the car, and certainly didn't won't to spend the time it took to repair it

So I improvised by taking the inside of the cable out of the liner threading it through a hole in the firewall jabbing it through the air duct and out through the air vent in the dash, I then drove this car 55 miles by pulling and releasing the cable to accelerate the car, these days we call it "Improvising"
Back then we had another word for it, ( Ghetto-Rigging )
and yes gryyde84 how is it coming with your tractor?

 

[gryyde84]

Sorry guys I have not had a chance to look into it. I plan on tearing it down this weekend. I'm very confident or should I say hopefull that the only problem is that the pin is bent. I was also fortunate to find and purchase a YM 2000 parts tractor. I noticed that the range lever feels as if it does'nt engage at all. So I think that the pin is broke on it. I purchased my YM 1700 for 450.00 with a cracked head and repaired and had running within 1 week. This is my first time to ever use a tractor to bush hog. I hooked up a 5' bush hog and after going to work I had to keep looking down to remind myself that I was on a compact tractor. This little hammer is strong!!! I also learned that a over run clutch is neccessary after almost running into my pond! I will be sure to keep everone posted on what I find. I also want to thank the person for sharing the quick fix wrench job I should have enough stuff laying around to keep yanning for years to come:laughing:

 

[Car Doc]

Nice 284 that proves you are a gearhead no doubt!

 

[284 International]

When the "ratrod" trend started to become, well, trendy, I just kind of rolled my eyes and figured the city slickers who thought they were so original had never actually grown up on around farming or with the guys who built those cars like that. It's not done to be cool, it's done because there's not enough money to make it work any other way!

 

[284 International]

Gryyde84, did you ever get around to taking a look at this? What did you find, and were you able to get anything resolved?

 

[gryyde84]

I just got around to looking into this and did not find any issue with the lever arm. I'm stumped right now cause this is my first time even looking at the gear mechanism. I noticed that their is a shaft that the hi low fork slides on that appear to slide front to back. Is this shaft suppose to stay stationary?

 

[winston1]

I just got around to looking into this and did not find any issue with the lever arm. I'm stumped right now cause this is my first time even looking at the gear mechanism. I noticed that their is a shaft that the hi low fork slides on that appear to slide front to back. Is this shaft suppose to stay stationary?

If you are talking about #26, yes, it should be stationary. The detents in that shaft have to be stationary so the shift fork will be stationary when in one of the detents. Yanmar Tractor Parts: SHIFT_LEVERS

 

[gryyde84]

Yes I'm refering #26 which is the shaft in question. What would cause this shaft to slide if design is for it to be stationary? I still feel that there is another issue also due to slipping out of high even while being forced. Or maybe the shaft limits it's travel. What do you guys think?

 

[gryyde84]

any one have any idea?

 

[winston1]

any one have any idea?

You said "I still feel there is another issue also due to slipping out of high even when being forced". Does this mean you can't hold it in high range?

 

[gryyde84]

Exactly I'm not able to hold it it still jumps out and grind.

 

[winston1]

Sounding more serious all the time. If it wants to jump out with you holding it I would think you have worn gears or bad bearings. Could you see those gears when you had the cover off? Any gear teeth rounded off on edges?

 

[gryyde84]

I did notice 1 gear ruonded at the edges I was kind of thinking that it was suppose to be that way. i don't know for sure what that gear goes to.

 

[winston1]

All those sliding gears or the ones they mesh with are straight spur gears and should not be rounded on edges. This may not be an ideal picture and not one of the gears you are looking at but this is what your gear teeth should look like. Yanmar Tractor Parts: DROP BOX GEAR _

 

[gryyde84]

Ok so now for the big question!! Is this a major repair or something that can be easily replaced with out having to split the case? I'm not really intimidated but would like an idea of what's involved.

 

[winston1]

I believe you need a repair manual before proceeding. I know I would pull any covers that would allow inspection hoping to correctly diagnose what is causing the jumping out of gear. Maybe you have already done that. Just looking at the parts drawings would indicate a lot of separation to change gears in the transmission. Take this as "my opinion" and not fact. I haven't been in one of these and do not have a manual that covers it.