no hydraulics can be added ????? ... the end of my dream ??

[Dave M7040]

The way I see it is that there are two pumps on this tractor. The one towards the front is for the power steering and the rear one is for the three point hitch.

The reason I say the front one is for the power steering is because the reservoir for it is too small for the single acting three point. All that needs to be done is identify the pressure line for the three point and tie into it. Sounds like there are others on this tread that know more about that than I do.

If the hydraulic pump is too small (pressure and flow) would it be possible to exchange it for a larger one?

I am always open to the opinion of others. What to me that does not jive with your idea of two pumps, is the blue label on the front " device" you think is the second pump. It is clearly a priority flow control valve as identified by its own label.

It could be that the container in front of the Radiator, which is why in my marked up image I put a ?, is actually a return line filter.

If anyone has access to an owners' manual it would clarify a lot.

From reading the material I found on Lenar tractors, there is a plug which can be removed from the control for the 3 pt lift cylinder. When this is done the 3 pt lift no longer works but the control lever for the 3 pt lift now will control a single acting cylinder as would be found on a dump cart.

The 6 litres per minute flow is not the the capacity of the pump. It is a small portion of the pump's output which is reserved for the power steering by the priority flow control.

This explanation of the possible use of external hydraulics is from the Lenar manual.

I am NOT a Chinese tractor expert by any means having never owned one. I have learned from helping owners sort out problems.
If someone who has one and has actually made the modifications being suggested please say so.

Dave M7040

 

[Dave M7040]

Celle
Sent you a PM

Dave M7040

 

[CalG]

There are two pumps present as shown in the pictures posted.
The pump to the front, with lines that cross over to the near side of the tractor go to the power steering.
The rear facing pump has a pressure line coming off the side, with the suction line entering from the end of the pump casing.

tapping into that pressure line is child's play. Search this forum for how it's done {Yannmar Hydraulic Tap might be a useful search term)

Doubting will never get you the hydraulics you desire. DIGGING will!

 

[Leejohn]

In one picture I see 4 lines off of the 2 pumps and in another picture with 6 lines. Where are the other 2 lines coming from and going to? I also see no filters, the line going from pump to hyd filter is the suction line. The tank for the steering could maybe have the filter for the steering, I ?? that one, might not even have one.

 

[quicksandfarmer]

I think you've got two hydraulic pumps. The one on the front is for the steering, it's a HLCB D06 "front steering pump":
Front Steering Pump

The one on the rear is a CNB E310. CBN-E31 Hydraulic Pump | Jinma Parts, Farm Pro Parts | Circle G This is for your 3 point hitch lift and the one you would want to tap into. This is the same pump used on Jinmas (some use the e314 or e320 which have higher capacity but are otherwise identical).

Since there are two separate pumps there is no diverter valve. The thing in front of the radiator is the hydraulic reservoir for the steering.

I understand that you would be reluctant to cut the hydraulic line, but you either need to cut it or find a 2-piece line that replaces it. The most common reason for using the 2-piece line is adding a front end loader, I would ask the dealer if they have a kit for adding a front end loader. The front end loader valve is connected to the hydraulic system with quick couplers so that the loader can be taken off of the tractor. If you put your own valve in there instead (using the quick couplers) you can use it for other hydraulic applications.

I would not try using the rear single-acting outlet for your application. You have to choose between using the 3-point hitch and the outlet, you can't use both at the same time. If there is weight on the hitch when you switch over you won't be able to switch back until the weight is removed.

 

[teg]

What about adding a 12 volt, hydraulic pump? If the only thing you need to run is that mower's back door, this would be more than enough.... All you need is electrical connection.

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200649177_200649177

 

[pmsmechanic]

What about adding a 12 volt, hydraulic pump? If the only thing you need to run is that mower's back door, this would be more than enough.... All you need is electrical connection.

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200649177_200649177

Well since we are throwing ideas around I wonder if an electric linear actuator would have enough power to lift the door.

Google "electric linear actuator"

 

[Fallon]

Well since we are throwing ideas around I wonder if an electric linear actuator would have enough power to lift the door.

Google "electric linear actuator"

You can get 500 & 1000lbs rated actuators for $250-500 or so. In general linear actuators work pretty well. However they have lots of small parts & are suceptable to wear. REALLY suceptable in high vibration enviroments.

I put one on my L3200 for power SSQA & it worked well. But I'll probably go hydraulic on my new L4060. Partially because I have a hydraulic 3rd function line already up there & partially because hydraulics are going to be more durable long-term.

Not relevant to my SSQA project, but it took 12-15 seconds for my linear actuator to cycle. Cycle time for the SSQA levers ended up being pretty irelevant in usage. But hydraulics would do the same thing in about 2-3 seconds (while applying up to around 5,000lbs of force rather than barely 500lbs).

 

[Celle]

Thanks a lot everybody for the flow of ideas. I have lots to think about ....

 

[quicksandfarmer]

I think your best bet is to replace the output pipe with two hoses, even if you can't get them from your dealer. From your pictures it looks like both ends of the pipe have a banjo fitting.

On the Jinma, they use a rubber hose with a banjo fitting on one end and a male 1/2" NPT fitting on the other. It looks like this:
34YZ.54.22 ( Outlet Pipe from Hydraulic Pump to quick connect) | Jinma Tractor Parts, Farm Pro Tractor Parts | Circle G Tractor Parts

In this country, hydraulic couplers for agricultural use will always have a female 1/2" NPT fitting so the hose screws right in:
4AGF4-AG4F4 | Set of 1/2" Couplers with 1/2" NPTF Threads

You would probably have to go to a hydraulic shop and get two hoses made in lengths so that they are the right length to replace the pipe. You should probably find out what is the standard for quick couplings in your country and use that.

If you can't get a hose made, your best bet then is to use a standard hose with adapters. This is what banjo adapters look like:
Banjo Adapters | Hose and Fittings Source

Banjo fittings are used when there isn't room for a standard fitting. The thread is the same as a standard metric fitting, you might also be able to use a metric elbow in there.

I don't know what a "standard" hose in France looks like, you need to ask at a local hydraulic shop.