No Hydraulics on KAMA 354X

[Woodsman1234]

Thanks greg_g. That sounds like an easier and cheaper way to avoid this happening again. I have some 1/4" cable ties that should do the trick. I think I'll add a generous wrap of Duct tape as a belt and suspenders approach.
Thanks again.
David

I suggest you keep the QDs in place, but secure them with cable ties. You think you'll never take the loader off, but that just might come back to BYITA. Especially if you have problems with the lift/curl valves some day. The cable tie thing is a trick Jinma owners have been using for years. Their 200 series have a single engine driven pump for the whole tractor. On the supply side of the pump there's a pigtail hose maybe 18" long. The hose mates to the tractor hydraulic loop with by means of a QD coupler. Said coupler is notorious for popping open, and some creative soul came up with the cable tie trick. Get 3 heavy duty cable ties, loosely wrap one around the rubber on the male half of the QD, do the same thing with another tie on the female half. Then connect the two together with a third. Pull both hose ties tight, then pull the 3rd tie tight. Haven't heard of a single subsequent case of QD separation from any of those who've used the method.

//greg//

 

[Rich Waugh]

Another way to keep your QD's from popping apart is to use a stainless steel worm-type hose clamp just behind the collar on the female coupling. Make sure the joint is fully seated and the collar is as far forward as it can go, then put the hose clamp right behind and tighten it down. The collar can not now be pushed back to release the coupling. I prefer this to the cable ties as it is possible for a brush snag to rip the cable tie apart. It takes a lot more to tear one of those stainless steel hose clams apart.

 

[Woodsman1234]

I was emailing Artrac's customer Service today to see if I could get a manual for the KAMA. They said there isn't one but when I told them the problem I was having they replied back that the source of the problem is near 100% certain to be in the splined shaft (like the #64 part in erj's diagram) being chewed up. Now I have to take the 3 point lift box off to get to it.

 

[erj]

David,
Look through this thread on a manual and see if it helps.
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/chinese-tractors/216890-ts354c-parts-manual.html

 

[Woodsman1234]

I finally got the top off of the PTO box on my KAMA and found that the splined connector was jammed all the way to rear of the pump shaft, The pin that holds the lever to the on\off shaft was sheared. The splined shaft is now in place and I'm going to drill the lever and shaft and put in a bolt.
Thanks to all who replied.

 

[sd455dan]

Good deal Woodsman looks like an inexpensive fix.

Also great tips from Greg and Rich


This is what makes TBN such a great site. :thumbsup:

 

[greg_g]

See that yellow crap at the bottom of the sump? You don't want that in there when you pour fresh gear oil back in. That stuff is an emulsification of oil, water, paint, and rust. It has significantly reduced lubrication capability, and will create more rust if not removed. Sponge that all out before you close up. A kerosene rinse wouldn't hurt either.

Another hint if you've opened the hydraulic sump; use a proper gasket and only enough gasket cement to prevent slippage upon reassembly. Avoid shortcutting with "gasket inna tube". It will break down, and eventually clog choke points in the hydraulic system. Same advice applies to Teflon tape; don't use it on threaded hydraulic connections. Use a pipe thread compound appropriate for oil/gas - or liquid Teflon sealant if you can find it.

//greg//

 

[Woodsman1234]

At 10 hours I decided to replace all of the Chinese fluids in the tractor with new fluids. I thought I had covered all of the drain ports but I guess I missed the PTO box. I noticed that when I finally got the PTO box off. I wanted to wait until I was ready to put the PTO box back on to drain it figuring that I'd rather drop crud into the Chinese crud than the new 85W140. I got it ready to put the box back on yesterday so I crawled under the beast and drained a ton of fluid out of the box, rinsed it with mineral spirits and poured in new 85W140. Big difference. The gasket stuck to the gear box so I am going to check it to be sure it's firmly attached before I put the PTO box on, hopefully today. Sure be glad to get this job done. Wife want's her parking space back.
Thank greg-g.

See that yellow crap at the bottom of the sump? You don't want that in there when you pour fresh gear oil back in. That stuff is an emulsification of oil, water, paint, and rust. It has significantly reduced lubrication capability, and will create more rust if not removed. Sponge that all out before you close up. A kerosene rinse wouldn't hurt either.

Another hint if you've opened the hydraulic sump; use a proper gasket and only enough gasket cement to prevent slippage upon reassembly. Avoid shortcutting with "gasket inna tube". It will break down, and eventually clog choke points in the hydraulic system. Same advice applies to Teflon tape; don't use it on threaded hydraulic connections. Use a pipe thread compound appropriate for oil/gas - or liquid Teflon sealant if you can find it.

//greg//

 

[erj]

David,
A question for you to further my education. Thank you for the pictures in the note above.
It looks to me like the internals on your gearbox are the same as the info that I posted on the Jinma 284, except that the controls on yours come in from the left side rather than the right.
Is that correct?
If so, I can add your pictures to my files (they are better pictures than I have).
Thank you,
RonJ

 

[Woodsman1234]

erj, yes the controls are on the left side. Here are a couple of pictures that show the lever that turns the tractor hydraulics on and off and the PTO on/off control. The other is Just a shot of the rear of the tractor.
Thanks,
David