No more plastic drain valve for me!

[vans]

I bought a Pella pump after my first oil change, works great for me. Just stick tube down the dipstick hole and let her rip, very clean which wasn't he case with factory drain

 

[jay25rs]

My newly installed fumoto

 

[pearlmanz]

Hey Vans, where do you get that pump and how much does it cost. YOu have any pictures?? Thank you, The PMZ

 

[LBrown59]

It's a must do on this particular engine/tractor. It was my 3rd and last time trying to mess with the OEM 'quick drain' setup. I see CC added a 2" nipple and elbow before the pastic drain on the 2006+ model year 2000 series machines. Atleast it's facing in the right direction now! One thing I forgot on my original post is; I used liquid teflon sealer as opposed to teflon tape on the pipe threads. I prefer the liquid stuff anyway, but it looks as if CC had liquid sealer on the factory brass part of the drain plug to begin with. I'd also used caution on those engine mounting bolts. I'd hate to snap off one of those alumium engine feet. Talk about an expensive mistake!

Joel

How much did this mod increase the engine oil capacity?

 

[LBrown59]

That's similar to what my 1864 has from the factory.

Nice job!

Make a kit. Sell it

Bandaid's included!

-Larry

Why not just go to a CC Dealer get the 1864 part and install it on a 2500 CC?

 

[LBrown59]

How did you ever get that elbow in there ?

My newly installed fumoto

 

[jay25rs]

How did you ever get that elbow in there ?

The elbow and the piece of pipe coming out of the oil pan were there from the factory. The elbow used to have the factory plastic plug sticking out of it. I had to mark the location of the engine and remove the 4 nuts and bolts holding it to the frame. I tilted the oil drain side of the engine up and placed a wrench under the engine and to the top of the frame rail. This gave me clearance to get an adjustable wrench on the brass part of the plastic drain valve and removed it after the oil was drained. Then I put some thread sealer on the new valve and installed it with an adjustable wrench. It was snugged up where it lays in the photos on about a 40 degree angle which worked out good.

 

[LBrown59]

1*The elbow and the piece of pipe coming out of the oil pan were there from the factory.
The elbow used to have the factory plastic plug sticking out of it.
2*I had to mark the location of the engine and remove the 4 nuts and bolts holding it to the frame. I tilted the oil drain side of the engine up and placed a wrench under the engine and to the top of the frame rail.
This gave me clearance to get an adjustable wrench on the brass part of the plastic drain valve and removed it after the oil was drained.
3*Then I put some thread sealer on the new valve and installed it with an adjustable wrench. It was snugged up where it lays in the photos on about a 40 degree angle which worked out good.

************
1* Boy I wish my 2554 already had the elbow and piece of pipe coming out of the oil pan. Getting an elbow in there is the real bear.
2*If I already had the short pipe and elbow in there I could avoid all of this in #2.
3* I'm considering using Copper pipe in order to avoid unbolting and lifting the motor or going with quarter inch pipe rather than 3/8 inch pipe
__________________

 

[LBrown59]

What model # CC is this on?

My newly installed fumoto

 

[jay25rs]

What model # CC is this on?
​

GT2544, it wasn't too bad to unbolt the motor, I just made sure to mark its position using white tape to make sure it was bolted back where it came from. Open ended wrench and socket with extension from the bottom. I think that even some 2006 model year 2500's didn't have the elbow. Mine was purchased on February 20th 2007 and has a date of manufacture of 3/2006.