No spark

   / No spark #1  

dgh

New member
Joined
Jun 7, 2005
Messages
14
Location
Colorado
Does anyone have any ideas about a no spark condition. Here's the details. Tractor 1958 Case 600B, all ignition parts only 3 months old (distributor, rotor, points, condensor, cap, rotor, coil). I'm getting current (~3A) on primary side of coil. Have put in two coils, both with similar primary/secondary resistances (3 ohms primary, 10k ohms secondary). Ignition switch appears to be working fine (engine cranks and primary current exists in both battery and start positions). Replaced condensor but that didn't work. Timing is okay. I used the tractor a week ago, parked it and it hasn't started since. Also replace coil high tension wire. HELP!
 
   / No spark #2  
First thing I'd do is pull the wire from the coil to the distributer and see if the coil makes sparks using the starter with ignition on. Just hold the insulated part of the wire thats still plugged into the coil a short distance from the block as the engine cranks and you should see sparks jump a 1/4" or so. If you do, then the trouble is in the distributer, plug wires, or plugs. If not then see if the ponts are shorted or otherwise not interupting the primary current. I've had brand new points go bad, so even if you just replaced them its possible they are bad or otherwise not making or breaking contact. You could also have fouled plugs if all this checks out.
 
   / No spark #3  
Make sure your points/condenser are not shorting out against the distributor wall or some other metal in the distributor. It doesn't take much at all to short it. BobG in VA
 
   / No spark #4  
Got the same problem exactly the same let us know the solution or problem fixed.
 
   / No spark #5  
Disconnect primary wire to the coil.. put a test lamp in line, now connect to the wire going to the points.. bump engine over.. test lamp should blink on and off if the points are opening and closing.

If lamp stays on.. points are shorted, cap is shorted.. or the distribuitor feedthru wire is shorted.

If lamp never comes on.. points aren't closing.. or otherwise don't have a ground reference.

You can use a jumper wire from the battery to the coil to test for bad switch / wireing to the coil.

Soundguy

Soundguy
 
   / No spark #6  
Forgot to mention.. pull the secondary wire from the cap, and just have it plugged intot he coil.. see if you get spark to the block. if you do.. but no spark with it in the cap.. look at the cap / rotor for tracks / arcing.

Soundguy
 
   / No spark
  • Thread Starter
#7  
Thanks for the suggestions. Points are working fine. There is current thru distributor when points are closed and none when points open. Therefore I should be getting high voltage out of coil but am not. Coil is fine (new). Could it be that I am not getting enough current thru distributor? According to multimeter I have 2.5 amps thru primary side, but I'm dropping about 3 volts between ignition switch and coil which seems like a lot of lost volts. I've cleaned the plugs, charged up the battery and called upon the great spirit but nothing has worked.
 
   / No spark #8  
Sounds like you got a good 'un going on /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

You've changed the points, condensor & rotor. You've got current flow through the coils primary when points are closed and the current ceases when the points open. Sounds right.

Two things, check the inside of the dist cap for wetness, cracks and carbon tracks. Same for inside the distributor. Has it been rainy since it's been sitting?

Likes been suggested, run a wire from the pos battery term to the + term on the coil then try it.

Sometimes the bearings/bushings in the distributor will wear out causing the shaft to pull to one side when cranking, which makes the points either not open or not close.
There shouldn't be any side ways play in the shaft.

Good luck.
Volfandt
 
   / No spark #9  
How are you checking for spark out of the coil?
With coil wire grounded or other method?
Coil wire could be bad, not making connection...etc.
 
   / No spark #10  
Found my problem a chunk of something looks like dried silicone holding the float valve closed no fuel to carburator cleaned it out runs fine, by the way the 3 amp you get to coil seems a bit much the new coil you installed does it call for a external resistor some coils call for an external resistor some have resistor inside the coil if the coil is wrong it will ruin the points real quick. give us an update on your solutions.
 

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