No start fixed - THANKS TO ALL

[Just “ Bob”]

So, the most important and simple starting point is thank you! Reviewed posts yesterday as a “guest”, fixed my issue, felt I should join and thank everyone for the help.

Now, my issue and what I found.

I have a 2018 Mahindra 1626 purchased new in January 2021. (Love the leftover discounts.) has 425 hours, well maintained, works like a dream. Began having hard start issues about 2 weeks ago.

Important to note it was a “crank no start”. Not a “no crank no start”.

First as advised I checked and confirmed all my safety switches. They, on my tractor, cause a no crank no start. Seat, PTO, clutch, and neutral. I only weigh 130lbs, so, long ago I jumped my seat switch but left all others operational.
Then I went from front to back as everyone in all the posts I could find on no starts has mentioned. Battery voltage, clean terminals, clean grounds, fuel and air filters, dirty in-line connectors (gave them all some new dielectric grease while I was at it) and so on. The simple and obvious stuff sometimes over looked on fairly new equipment.
From there I followed my suspicion to a glow plug problem since the weather has gotten a lot cooler. Got my trusty multi meter out and checked power to glow plugs “feeder” wire. Got battery voltage there, but “0” on each glow plug “post”.
The result, the cheap “tin bar” that is supposed to deliver voltage from the feeder wire to each glow plug post, for a lack of better words, SUCKS! Bound to fail sooner rather than later.

I got energetic, for less than 10 minutes, and used some stuff I already had on hand and in the barn, short pieces of #10 copper wire, 4 eyelets, some dielectric grease, and I replaced the half cent tin crap. Back to full battery power at each glow plug post and starts like new again.

So, yes, problem solved, picture attached, and thanks to everyone here!

Bob

 

[Wagtail]

G'day Mate and welcome to TBN from Downunder.

Enjoy the site... even more now that you've joined.

 

[CalG]

So, the most important and simple starting point is thank you! Reviewed posts yesterday as a “guest”, fixed my issue, felt I should join and thank everyone for the help.

Now, my issue and what I found.

I have a 2018 Mahindra 1626 purchased new in January 2021. (Love the leftover discounts.) has 425 hours, well maintained, works like a dream. Began having hard start issues about 2 weeks ago.

Important to note it was a “crank no start”. Not a “no crank no start”.

First as advised I checked and confirmed all my safety switches. They, on my tractor, cause a no crank no start. Seat, PTO, clutch, and neutral. I only weigh 130lbs, so, long ago I jumped my seat switch but left all others operational.
Then I went from front to back as everyone in all the posts I could find on no starts has mentioned. Battery voltage, clean terminals, clean grounds, fuel and air filters, dirty in-line connectors (gave them all some new dielectric grease while I was at it) and so on. The simple and obvious stuff sometimes over looked on fairly new equipment.
From there I followed my suspicion to a glow plug problem since the weather has gotten a lot cooler. Got my trusty multi meter out and checked power to glow plugs “feeder” wire. Got battery voltage there, but “0” on each glow plug “post”.
The result, the cheap “tin bar” that is supposed to deliver voltage from the feeder wire to each glow plug post, for a lack of better words, SUCKS! Bound to fail sooner rather than later.

I got energetic, for less than 10 minutes, and used some stuff I already had on hand and in the barn, short pieces of #10 copper wire, 4 eyelets, some dielectric grease, and I replaced the half cent tin crap. Back to full battery power at each glow plug post and starts like new again.

So, yes, problem solved, picture attached, and thanks to everyone here!

Bob
View attachment 766594

Just being the devil's advocate here, but....

Don't some glow plug heater systems make use of some form of voltage dropping component to prolong the life of the glow plugs?

I know my Kubota B7200 has an element that glows hot in the dash (visible through a small hole as indication that the system is working.)

If that element fails, the glow plugs don't get juice, but it is NOT CORRECT to jump that resistance with a bus bar.

Are you sure the element you scrapped isn't a similar device? Glow plugs are spendy to replace.

 

[hornett22]

It's usually just the main connection at the front of the bar gets lightly corroded. I'm at 1008 hours and still have the "tin bar"

 

[Just “ Bob”]

Just being the devil's advocate here, but....

Don't some glow plug heater systems make use of some form of voltage dropping component to prolong the life of the glow plugs?

I know my Kubota B7200 has an element that glows hot in the dash (visible through a small hole as indication that the system is working.)

If that element fails, the glow plugs don't get juice, but it is NOT CORRECT to jump that resistance with a bus bar.

Are you sure the element you scrapped isn't a similar device? Glow plugs are spendy to replace.

Thanks for the warning. As best as I can tell, the protection your referring to is done by the control unit. When you turn key to run, it powers glow plugs for about 30 seconds then shuts them down using a relay. You have to re-cycle the ignition to power then again. You can actually hear the relay click off and the dash indicator light goes off as well. I suspect if that relay fails to shut down at the appropriate time I would certainly have issues. Never considered that aspect, I tend to think more to no power rather than constant power. Something to keep in mind.

 

[Just “ Bob”]

It's usually just the main connection at the front of the bar gets lightly corroded. I'm at 1008 hours and still have the "tin bar"

I must have been the lucky one. Both notches for attaching to cyl 1 & 3 were enlarged, during install I suspect. Swapped while I was there. A friend has same engine in his LS and he’s never had an issue and he’s beyond 2000 hours.

 

[hornett22]

I must have been the lucky one. Both notches for attaching to cyl 1 & 3 were enlarged, during install I suspect. Swapped while I was there. A friend has same engine in his LS and he’s never had an issue and he’s beyond 2000 hours.

Glad you got it figured out

 

[LittleBill21]

It's usually just the main connection at the front of the bar gets lightly corroded. I'm at 1008 hours and still have the "tin bar"

yea, its the female spade connector that is the issue, simply putting an eyelet there fixed my issue as well.

 

[CrazyCarroll]

yea, its the female spade connector that is the issue, simply putting an eyelet there fixed my issue as well.

It's usually just the main connection at the front of the bar gets lightly corroded. I'm at 1008 hours and still have the "tin bar"

That's where my problem was. That's a fuseable link, mine was slightly melted and sometimes I would get power on the bar. Went and picked one up a NAPA for $8 and she fired right up. I was thinking about not getting one, but it's a fuseable link for a reason....

 

[hornett22]

Glad you got it resolved!