Loader No Start New Holland LX665

[EyeDigU]

1997 New Holland LX 665 skid steer. Turn key and only get a ka-chuk. No crank, no battery problem, just a ka-chuk. Unbuckle seat belt and only a somewhat mild version of ka-chuk. I'm not an idiot, but would appreciate some tips and directions. I can test if told what to test and how. Have tools, but don't know how to use them all (electric stuff). Machine was running and starting fine and then 4-6 weeks later it wouldn't start. I know this isn't much, but that's all I have right now. I do have the 1'000 page shop manual (I just need to find it). Unit has only 800+ hours and I'm the original owner.
Thank you

 

[Jerry/MT]

How do you know you don't have a battery problem? You haven't done any trouble shooting so how can you rule out the battery? How cold is the temperature? Batteries have less current capability in low temps and it takes more power to turn a cold diesel over.
It could be a bad battery, corroded battery terminals, bad starter connections, bad battery ground, bad solenoid contacts, or bad starter. Do you have a block heater

If this were my machine, I would and it was cold (T<32ｰF), I'd plug the block heater in and let it sit for three hours, While it was heating, I'd pull the battery terminals off and give them a good cleaning and then put them back on. I'd put a charger on the battery to get it fully charged. Check the connections at the starter and make sure they a "bright and tight".I'd check the battery ground connection to the tractor and make sure it was clean and tight. After the three hours, I'd check the voltage while someone tries to crank the engine. The voltage at the battery should not be less than 9V while cranking. If it's less, the battery need replacing IF you fully charged it! If the battery is OK, and all the connections are "bright and tight", the problem is most likely in the solenoid or the starter. Pull them off and get them tested.

 

[EyeDigU]

I failed to mention that I did fully charge the battery off a Schumacher battery charger, did check and clean the terminals, and attempted to start both without, and with the 200 amp starting current selected on the charger, but no go. I will check the batt voltage tomorrow. I will clean all contacts. Starter is 2 years od (an absolutely competent rebuild by Roberts Electric in Garfield, NJ) but I will check it. I'm thinking starter solenoid, but short of replacing it, how do I check it? I have some tools, but I need to learn to use them. Some of them are my best friends and others have been kind of stand-off-ish.
I have a New Holland block heater (oil warmer), but I have not installed it as of yet. I'll wait until done with this task.

Thank you for answering and your help.
William

 

[Jerry/MT]

Without knowing the details of the starter/solenoid, most of the solenoids that are mounted on the starter can be taken apart. There is a large copper washer on the solenoid plunger IIRC and there are two bolt heads that the washer contacts to complete the circuit between the battery and the starter motor. Often times these bolt heads are burned away or badly arced and they create high resistance. They can sometimes be rotated to give better contact. To verify the solenoid performance and eliminate the starter as a problem, MAKE SURE THE TRACTOR IS NOT IN GEAR and connect a jumper cable to the (+) battery terminal. Take the other end of the jumper cable and touch it to the big solenoid terminal that IS NOT CONNECTED to the battery. The starter should turn the motor over as long as you hold the jumper to that terminal. If it does, the starter is good. Next check the solenoid pull in by touching the jumper wire to the small connection on the solenoid. You should hear the solenoid pull in. If it does the coil is good. If the you just get a Ka chunk and the engine doesn't continuously turn over, you have high resistance in the battery to starter circuit. If you have good starter cables (check for corrosion where the cable goes into the battery connection terminal) than the high resistance must be in the solenoid internal contacts. Either open it and check the internal high current contacts and rotate them or replace the solenoid.

 

[EyeDigU]

Wow, that was detailed (and the kind of help I need!) THANK YOU. Hopefully I will attempt repairs tomorrow as it's been raining/lightly snowing today so repairs are relegated until tomorrow. Once I've checked all, performed the tests, cleaned and tightened all, I'll report back. Really, thank you very much. Oh yeah, I work outdoors.

Montana - Big Sky and loads of dental floss farms (or so Frank Zappa would have us believe)