non OEM mower belts

[arkvet]

I have a 6' Howse finish mower (C372) that runs off of two 84" "kevlar belts". I noted recently that if the grass is thick one of the belts starts slipping and is looking pretty worn. A lot more slack is in that particular side. The mower is about 10 years old and in all likelihood has original belts.

My question is in regard to replacing them. I find a pair of OEM 84" belts online for about $50. Is there much difference between the so called OEM belts and an aftermarket belt of same size that can be bought at Auto zone of a farm supply store? I was hoping to avoid buying online and potentially paying a premium for the OEM label

 

[pacerron]

I have a 6' Howse finish mower (C372) that runs off of two 84" "kevlar belts". I noted recently that if the grass is thick one of the belts starts slipping and is looking pretty worn. A lot more slack is in that particular side. The mower is about 10 years old and in all likelihood has original belts.

My question is in regard to replacing them. I find a pair of OEM 84" belts online for about $50. Is there much difference between the so called OEM belts and an aftermarket belt of same size that can be bought at Auto zone of a farm supply store? I was hoping to avoid buying online and potentially paying a premium for the OEM label

If you can get Kevlar the same quality cheaper....
I replaced the big double belt on my Woods RM-990 last year and it was cheaper at my local New Holland dealer than at Messicks.

There are probably spring loaded idler pulleys somewhere in the belt path. Sometimes they get frozen on the shaft so the tension is not maintained. Check that.
You also need to be carefull to not over grease the zerks on the spindles if they have them.

 

[Gale Hawkins]

I would just go to NAPA/other parts stores in town. If it is 1/2 they will stock up to about 100" belts. OEM belts are nearly always sourced from a third party. It is not like getting an OEM belt is going to be better and in fact could be worse.

Look at adjusting the loose side a bit. It could take some soaking of bolts and nuts if it has been parked outside. You need these all to be movable before you replace the belts anyway. Just take the old bolts to TSC, etc and get new ones if they are in bad shape so 10 years from now they may be removable.

We are into this on the ZTM due to failed spindle bearings. While you have the belts off check how free each blade spins. If they are rough feeling or one stops before the others with the same force find out why. If they are sealed bearings (not greased) and feel rough now then replacing the bearings might be considered.

 

[arkvet]

thanks for the reply.

Interestingly the Howse doesn't use any spring loaded belt tensioners. The main gearbox has a large double pully wheel under it that feeds the 3 blades. The plate that the gearbox mounts to is manually adjustable to create adequate tension. It's not typical but I guess since the gearbox and blade mounts are very rigid in placement this works fine. Since the belts are tensioned in this manner it's pretty much necessary to replace them both at once. No room for slight differences in length.

I'll try to find some belts at my local farm supply (Orchelns) or auto parts store.

Thanks!

 

[leonz]

I have a 6' Howse finish mower (C372) that runs off of two 84" "kevlar belts". I noted recently that if the grass is thick one of the belts starts slipping and is looking pretty worn. A lot more slack is in that particular side. The mower is about 10 years old and in all likelihood has original belts.

My question is in regard to replacing them. I find a pair of OEM 84" belts online for about $50. Is there much difference between the so called OEM belts and an aftermarket belt of same size that can be bought at Auto zone of a farm supply store? I was hoping to avoid buying online and potentially paying a premium for the OEM label

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There is nothing wrong with OEM belts, NAPA as normal state of affairs purchases thier belts from The Gates Rubber Company.


Stock pickers in a warehouse, let alone any warehouse will not be looking at the lot numbers cast into the rubber carcass of a V-Belt when picking belts for an order!!!!!!!!!!!



Before this gets any further and you have more problems:

1. All V belts like all bearings are METRIC and always have been.

2. When buying multiple belts for a belt driven implement there are two rules are written in stone.

2a. YOU MUST BUY THE V BELTS WITH THE SAME LOT NUMBER!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

2b. Buying V belts with different lot numbers will cause problems because they are are woven and then rubber impregnated in separate batches. The man made nylon thread or kevlar thread is also different in each batch.


The other thing is proper tensioning YOU NEED to purchase a V belt tensioning gauge to properly obtain the required tension.

AND it the belt tensioning method uses 2 threaded rods or bolts the number of threads must be the same count of threads.

The other issue is tmake sure the bolt or threaded rod has a lock nut or lock nuts and be sure to use blue lock tite on the threads to avoid issues of loosening.



Just be sure to follow these rules and you will be fine.

 

[arkvet]

Thanks for the info! Here's the page out of my manual that describes the belt tightening procedure. The mower is simple in that it keeps moving parts at a minimum but that does make it more essential that the belts are matched.

 

[Mickey_Fx]

I have a 6' Howse finish mower (C372) that runs off of two 84" "kevlar belts". I noted recently that if the grass is thick one of the belts starts slipping and is looking pretty worn. A lot more slack is in that particular side. The mower is about 10 years old and in all likelihood has original belts.

My question is in regard to replacing them. I find a pair of OEM 84" belts online for about $50. Is there much difference between the so called OEM belts and an aftermarket belt of same size that can be bought at Auto zone of a farm supply store? I was hoping to avoid buying online and potentially paying a premium for the OEM label

I'd be more concerned about materials used and belt type than whether it has the OEM name on it. An aftermarket source I've used and have been happy with the qlty is V belts 4 less. Vbelts4less - Mower Belts - V-Belts - Banded Belts - Kevlar Belts
The belt on my mower deck was replaced 3 yrs ago and when I checked earlier this yr, it was still looking very good. It was a Kevlar reinforced belt. I'd use them again.

 

[JRobyn]

I've used these guys for kevlar belts - good, cheap and quick.

V-Belts - Kevlar Belts - Timing Belts and Industrial V-Belts

- Jay

 

[pacerron]

Thanks for the info! Here's the page out of my manual that describes the belt tightening procedure. The mower is simple in that it keeps moving parts at a minimum but that does make it more essential that the belts are matched.

There must be some side slop in the gear case bolt plate.
That path is not going to maintain even tension on each belt as they wear and stretch or you happen to hit some dirt, rock, stump, etc with one of the blades and it causes that belt to slip and/or burn a little bit.
The drawing back of the tightening bolt does add tension but you notice they want you to get the 10 pounds of pressure adjusted on the short run of each belt.
If your present belts are not cracked you can probably readjust them to work.

 

[Gunny]

I can't comment on the mower or adjustments, but I've had awfully good luck with the kevlar belts sold at TSC. The advice about buying double belts with the same lot number was spot on.