noooooooooooooooo!!!!

[RichNJKubota]

I agree that doing the repairs yourself onsite is the cheapest solution. If the radiator core was damaged a radiator shop can recore it for you. If the "tank" or end cap of the radiator is damaged you may need a new radiator. Sometimes the end caps are possible to get as replacement parts for auto radiators. In any case a new radiator will probably cost more than the radiator repair. But if you are doing it yourself I would just buy a new radiator from Kubota and put it in.

Rich
NJ

 

[theboman]

Different tractors, but I had the radiator off my B7500 in under 30 minutes and I ain't gotta clue on what I do half
the time.

 

[RedRocker]

Seems like a water pump runs on a sealed bearing that turns an impeller that's in your cooling system. How can running it w/o water damage it? It's not like the antifreeze provides lubrication. I'm sure I'll be corrected if I'm wrong. /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif

 

[Junkman]

the bearings are not the problem, but the seal between the bearing and the impeller that keep the fluid from leaking out is where the problem might arise. This seal needs the anti-freeze for lubrication. If you don't change the anti freeze on schedule, the lubricating properties of the anti-freeze are diminished and eventually the seals will fail as a result.

 

[RedRocker]

Ahhh, I guess I'd flunk water pump 101.

 

[theboman]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Seems like a water pump runs on a sealed bearing that turns an impeller that's in your cooling system. How can running it w/o water damage it? It's not like the antifreeze provides lubrication. I'm sure I'll be corrected if I'm wrong. /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif )</font>

The engine gets hot and in a hurry without water going thru the block. Without water, BLEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEWY!

 

[ArkCivEngr]

Mechanically, I'm pretty much the same way. I do maintenance on my trucks, mower, and tractor, but this sort of thing usually intimidates me. However, after reading a few of these posts, I felt a bit more bold and went down to take a look in real daylight (it was dusky dark last night when this happened).

This was one heck of a root. There is a white plate up front that the battery and radiator sits on; this rather thick metal plate was bent! I also noted that the root did not actually poke through any of the fins. Apparently it hit at the plastic housing at the bottom of the radiator and pushed the bottom forward, and separated the two. That's why the coolant gushed out so quickly.

Obviously, this will not be fixed by me. /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif

 

[Junkman]

Get a large hammer and beat the plate into submission until it looks like it is where it belongs. Then take the radiator to the radiator repair shop and they will do their magic and put it back together, pressure test it, paint it, and give it back to you to reinstall. Just wait till the paint is dry before handling it with your bare hands. If you can work on your truck, then you are qualified to work on the tractor. The only problem that I can see is if the plastic lower tank is damaged and a replacement tank is not available. If you do send it to the dealer, and they do replace the radiator, make sure to get the old radiator back to keep for spare parts if this ever happens again. The core (metal finned part) is worth keeping for the future.

 

[frank_f15]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Obviously, this will not be fixed by me.
)</font>

if in doubt let the pro's handel it. will be interestering to see the final cost of repair tho.

 

[RonR]

And add "build a skid plate" to your to do list......

Before I take mine off road, I'm going to have one installed!

Ron