Not taking grease,how to resolve?

davedj1 · Apr 26, 2018

Thank you all who offered advice. I got done work today and decided to tackle the zerks.

The drivers side upper lift arm wouldn't take grease so I pulled the zerk, there is an elbow on the end that the zerk screws into so I took that out too, it was caked full of what looked like putty...lol anyway, some break clean and a pick and I put it all back together and it took grease! YEAH
The passenger side wouldn't take grease the other day but I started the tractor and moved the loader up and down then shut it down and then released the pressure on the lever, it took grease! Yeah
Then I moved on to the upper bucket pins, both zerks were broken off, I tried some left handed drill bits thinking maybe they would thread the remains out, no luck so I drilled them out to 7/32.nds and used my 4 way tool to re thread them and installed new zerks, boom done!
Now the lower bucket pins, neither one would take grease, I removed the zerks,cleaned them with the pick and in the hole and sprayed everything out with break clean and put them back in and they too took grease! I'm 100% greased now

Then I moved on to the hydraulic hoses I added and used two pipe wrenches to tighten up the fittings, I did get some more on them, I hope this cures them from seeping.
I think my next adventure will be to change the oil, filter and fuel and hydraulic filters too. I put a new air filter in when I got it as the guy gave me a brand new one in the box.
So thanks again

p.s. that oiler tool probably would have worked for the two lower ones. I may look into getting one of them.

fried1765 · Apr 26, 2018

Fallon said:
Lock 'n lube is a better coupler for your grease gun. You can unlock it from the zerk with a lever. Not the whack it with a hammer to possibly loosen up the zerk or more likely break the zerk off tool. Mine was only $20 or so, rather than $40.

On a related note. You can loosen up or tighten the coupler on a normal grease gun. Tighten or loosen the end of the coupler by screwing or unscrewing it a bit. Makes it so you can get the coupler off of so it will stay latched. A Lock 'n Lube works better no matter how well the normal coupler is adjusted.

You are confusing two very different Lock-N-Lube item descriptions.

The Lock-N-Lube "grease coupler" is $29.95, and a hammer is NEVER to be used with it.
I have the grease coupler....it is a handy tool,.... but somewhat costly!

The Lock-N-Lube "grease buster" is TOTALLY different.
It must be filled with penetrating oil, attached to the zerk, and THEN hit with a hammer, to force the penetrating oil into the zerk.
It costs $42.95.
It is an interesting concept, but the cost is just too rich for my blood.

PILOON · Apr 27, 2018

I look at the gadgets sold for difficult zerks and scratch my head.

OK, I'm frugal (cheap?) but did U ever price the costs of zerks?
Shucks you get about 100 for the price of the zerk tool.
Heck you could replace every zerk annually B4 you offset the tool cost.

davedj1 · Apr 27, 2018

PILOON said:
I look at the gadgets sold for difficult zerks and scratch my head.

OK, I'm frugal (cheap?) but did U ever price the costs of zerks?
Shucks you get about 100 for the price of the zerk tool.
Heck you could replace every zerk annually B4 you offset the tool cost.

I know but I like to have a full toy box!