Attached with roll pin. They are intact, removed and replaced because I could, forks have a little wear nothing major. Makes sense about the cross shaft because I could tell the difference in the clutch pedal, felt like the clutch was slowly going away. I’ll remove it and check to see if it hasn’t somehow twisted or something. Thank for the reply!
Fork is fastened with roll pin to cross shaft. I pulled out cross shaft and forks, all looks solid, a little ware on forks and throw out bearing but nothing crazy. With the clutch pedal all the way down and linkage adjusted as far as it can, I’m stumped!
Harry in Ky
Veteran Member
Well it's obvious SOMETHING changed. The clutch was working fine one day and suddenly it's like this. You've changed the pressure plate and gain nothing. That says the problem must be in the geometry of the linkage between the clutch pedal and the cross shaft, the cross shaft and the fork, the fork and throw out bearing and/or the sleeve it ride on. No matter how many ideas get floated past you here, you're still the only one looking at it.
As a general rule whenever I have a tractor split (for clutch repair of any kind) before I roll it together I will take a tape measure and measure from the tractor split mating surface back the contact surface of the pressure plate release levers. Whatever that takes. Sometimes it requires getting a little "creative". Then do the same measuring from the split surface to the face of the throw out bearing. If the two measurements aren't within 1/8" of each other with room in the pedal adjustment to go both ways I stop right there and find out why.
As a general rule whenever I have a tractor split (for clutch repair of any kind) before I roll it together I will take a tape measure and measure from the tractor split mating surface back the contact surface of the pressure plate release levers. Whatever that takes. Sometimes it requires getting a little "creative". Then do the same measuring from the split surface to the face of the throw out bearing. If the two measurements aren't within 1/8" of each other with room in the pedal adjustment to go both ways I stop right there and find out why.
Gord Baker
Platinum Member
I don't know what is involved with a 'Clutch Kit' but it sounds like a bent or broken 'Clutch Fork' or a failed Pressure plate.
Some pictures would be nice. Sheared roll pins are the number one suspect, for sure. You've verified them all, so we can move on.
The crank arm attached to cross shaft, does it move up and down with the clutch pedal? I'm not particularly familiar with this tractor, but I assume the crank arm should be moving at least 3-4", measured at the linkage end. If the crank arm is moving in sync with the clutch pedal, then I would be suspicious that the crank arm has somehow spun on the cross shaft. Looking at an old video of a clutch replacement on YouTube, it would appear that the correct orientation of the crank arm is parallel with the roll pin that holds the clutch fork.
The crank arm attached to cross shaft, does it move up and down with the clutch pedal? I'm not particularly familiar with this tractor, but I assume the crank arm should be moving at least 3-4", measured at the linkage end. If the crank arm is moving in sync with the clutch pedal, then I would be suspicious that the crank arm has somehow spun on the cross shaft. Looking at an old video of a clutch replacement on YouTube, it would appear that the correct orientation of the crank arm is parallel with the roll pin that holds the clutch fork.
WinterDeere
Super Member
- Joined
- Sep 6, 2011
- Messages
- 5,665
- Location
- Philadelphia
- Tractor
- John Deere 3033R, 855 MFWD, 757 ZTrak; IH Cub Cadet 123
Actually happened with my loader control, once. Took a few minutes looking at all the linkage, wondering why the stick was all sloppy despite everything else being tight, until I caught the pivot point wobbling.
