Now ready for the concrete in the pole barn

[747driver]

I had thought about doing the concrete myself....but decided that work I use to luv doing is not for this older guy !

30x50x5inches. The motorhome is one on one side which is why I am going 5 inches, otherwise I would have done 4 inches. I will do the minor form work at the garage doors end otherwise the grade boards are all ready installed. 6 mil plastic on top of the stone. Will run 2... 3" pvc conduit under the floor from side to side so I can pull wire etc. Install a 3" drain under the floor for the motorhome service. I will form a 10"x10" footer across the door opening with a 1.5 inch step down so the doors will seal to prevent rain from coming in.

Not sure if I like using the fiber mesh. I have used it before but it doesn't finish well. Could use wire mesh or go all rebar. I could go 2'x2' on the rebar or 3'x3' rebar and include the fiber mesh. I know this is a major topic !!

Have got one quote so far. $3600 for 20 yards,fiber mesh,expansion joints,trowel finish. Thought that was a low price. Having one more contractor out on Thursday for a estimate. All they have to do is pour and finish and cut expansion joints. No grade work or forming to do. So maybe $3600 isn't to bad !

Thoughts and suggestions welcome. The ground doesn't freeze here, and soil is well packed with no soft areas.

 

[ovrszd]

Are they going to back in the building with the first couple loads?

Price sounds good.

Anxious to see finished product!!!

 

[plowhog]

I'm astounded you can get finished concrete at a little over $2 sq ft. Here it is four times that.

I would run a *lot* of conduit under the slab. I ran PEX for water, ABS or DWV for sewer, and schedule 40 electrical pvc. When I turned up the electrical pvc I converted to rigid pipe so that is what sticks up. I ran a *lot* of conduit-- electrical to each supporting column, the corners of the building, etc. and I still wish I had put in a little more. Plus I wish I had added more stub outs to take power from inside the building to outside.

If you run conduit under the slab, be sure it is *in* the gravel and not on top of the gravel. If it is on top of the gravel it will crack in that area. And watch those stub ups when it is poured!

 

[JPRambo]

A builder in N. Georgia just quoted me $3400 for a 30 x 24 garage slab with footers.

 

[RNeumann]

Spend the wooden nickel and put rebar in. A typical slab would be #4 rebar at 18”-24” OC with 12” overlap on the joints. You could knock that out in an hour or so. Dobies are a good idea too.

It’s not like you get a second shot at it.....

 

[ddbackhoe]

I had thought about doing the concrete myself....but decided that work I use to luv doing is not for this older guy !

30x50x5inches. The motorhome is one on one side which is why I am going 5 inches, otherwise I would have done 4 inches. I will do the minor form work at the garage doors end otherwise the grade boards are all ready installed. 6 mil plastic on top of the stone. Will run 2... 3" pvc conduit under the floor from side to side so I can pull wire etc. Install a 3" drain under the floor for the motorhome service. I will form a 10"x10" footer across the door opening with a 1.5 inch step down so the doors will seal to prevent rain from coming in.

Not sure if I like using the fiber mesh. I have used it before but it doesn't finish well. Could use wire mesh or go all rebar. I could go 2'x2' on the rebar or 3'x3' rebar and include the fiber mesh. I know this is a major topic !!

Have got one quote so far. $3600 for 20 yards,fiber mesh,expansion joints,trowel finish. Thought that was a low price. Having one more contractor out on Thursday for a estimate. All they have to do is pour and finish and cut expansion joints. No grade work or forming to do. So maybe $3600 isn't to bad !

Thoughts and suggestions welcome. The ground doesn't freeze here, and soil is well packed with no soft areas.

Here it's running 150 per off the truck, so I'd be tickled to pay 600 to have a crew pour and finish. Ditto on the conduit/pipe, now is the time to guesstimate for the future.

 

[bg71361]

I had thought about doing the concrete myself....but decided that work I use to luv doing is not for this older guy !

30x50x5inches. The motorhome is one on one side which is why I am going 5 inches, otherwise I would have done 4 inches. I will do the minor form work at the garage doors end otherwise the grade boards are all ready installed. 6 mil plastic on top of the stone. Will run 2... 3" pvc conduit under the floor from side to side so I can pull wire etc. Install a 3" drain under the floor for the motorhome service. I will form a 10"x10" footer across the door opening with a 1.5 inch step down so the doors will seal to prevent rain from coming in.

Not sure if I like using the fiber mesh. I have used it before but it doesn't finish well. Could use wire mesh or go all rebar. I could go 2'x2' on the rebar or 3'x3' rebar and include the fiber mesh. I know this is a major topic !!

Have got one quote so far. $3600 for 20 yards,fiber mesh,expansion joints,trowel finish. Thought that was a low price. Having one more contractor out on Thursday for a estimate. All they have to do is pour and finish and cut expansion joints. No grade work or forming to do. So maybe $3600 isn't to bad !

Thoughts and suggestions welcome. The ground doesn't freeze here, and soil is well packed with no soft areas.

Prepare to play the game! This was my experience, I received my quote agreed to it and scheduled a date. Pour day comes all goes well and is looking great, near the end the job foreman tells me that they used more concrete than expected, that will be another $1200 for time and materials. Am I responsible because the estimator screwed up? I told him I would pay only for the additional material, I thought that was fair, I was there the entire time so I know how many trucks showed up. I’ve heard similar stories from others in my area using various contractors. Just a word of caution, best of luck!

 

[Redlands Okie]

Not sure on some of the information. $3600 for the whole job, concrete, mesh, labor, tax ?
I am calculating about 24 yards (guessing on footing lengths) so at least 25 yards ordered.
So how much per yard from your plant and what ever is left over is labor ? If so thats a bargain. If the $3600 is labor only then its still a deal around here.

Thoughts that. You might not care one way or the other about are
1. Mesh comes in different sizes. Smaller is hard to see even when troweling.
2. Rebar and mesh do two different jobs. One is not a substitute for the other. Mesh is the substitute for the wire grid, not rebar. I personally would much prefer to have the rebar. Even 3/8 or number 3 rebar would be preferred over the mesh if I could only have one of the choices. (For those that one to argue the point look up the manufactures recommendations for use of their products).
3. Saw cuts are needed soon, as in same day or first thing early next morning.
4. The more water added the weaker the final product, and more cracking is likely. Yes I realize more water makes it easier to work. Just keep the point in mind.
5. Depth of saw cuts need to be at least 1/4 of the slabs thickness.
6. Inside corners in the concrete pour will be more likly to crack. If you have any, such as boxes around plumbing, or post.
7. Some people like to put lag bolts or some type of anchor in the posts of the building for the concrete floor to pour around.

 

[747driver]

Are they going to back in the building with the first couple loads?

Price sounds good.

Anxious to see finished product!!!

If I put rebar in they won't be able to back in. The 14' door is high enough for them to back in. If I go with just a fiber mix then no problem for the truck to back in.

 

[747driver]

I'm astounded you can get finished concrete at a little over $2 sq ft. Here it is four times that.

I would run a *lot* of conduit under the slab. I ran PEX for water, ABS or DWV for sewer, and schedule 40 electrical pvc. When I turned up the electrical pvc I converted to rigid pipe so that is what sticks up. I ran a *lot* of conduit-- electrical to each supporting column, the corners of the building, etc. and I still wish I had put in a little more. Plus I wish I had added more stub outs to take power from inside the building to outside.

If you run conduit under the slab, be sure it is *in* the gravel and not on top of the gravel. If it is on top of the gravel it will crack in that area. And watch those stub ups when it is poured!

The $3600 was cheap to me but I have a few other estimates to get this week.

What size conduit did you run under the floor ? I want to just put 2...3" conduit under the floor to reach the other side, then stub out from there to the various outlets. Then a dedicated conduit to reach the motorhome...it need 50 amp. I will run my overhead lights wiring off of the trusses.

 

[747driver]

A builder in N. Georgia just quoted me $3400 for a 30 x 24 garage slab with footers.

Are you going to use rebar,wire mesh or fiber ?

 

[747driver]

Spend the wooden nickel and put rebar in. A typical slab would be #4 rebar at 18”-24” OC with 12” overlap on the joints. You could knock that out in an hour or so. Dobies are a good idea too.

It’s not like you get a second shot at it.....

I will see what the contractor recommends. If I go the rebar route then the truck can't back in. It will take 100 20' sticks of rebar !!

 

[EddieWalker]

The first thing that I need to see in a concrete contractor is if they are using rebar set on chairs. If I don't see that, they don't pass the test. When they tell me that they lift it as the go, I know that they are a liar, or incompetent. Either way, it's not possible to work concrete and lift rebar, and walk all over it at the same time. For that very reason, wire should never be used on a big pad. If you have to walk on it, wire is pure junk. Fiber doesn't hurt anything, and it does add some strength, but it will never replace rebar.

 

[747driver]

Prepare to play the game! This was my experience, I received my quote agreed to it and scheduled a date. Pour day comes all goes well and is looking great, near the end the job foreman tells me that they used more concrete than expected, that will be another $1200 for time and materials. Am I responsible because the estimator screwed up? I told him I would pay only for the additional material, I thought that was fair, I was there the entire time so I know how many trucks showed up. I’ve heard similar stories from others in my area using various contractors. Just a word of caution, best of luck!

Thats a bummer ! I have poured alot of concrete over the years and yes I have come up short a couple of times. I will ask the contractor to be sure he gets the right amount of yards !!

 

[747driver]

The first thing that I need to see in a concrete contractor is if they are using rebar set on chairs. If I don't see that, they don't pass the test. When they tell me that they lift it as the go, I know that they are a liar, or incompetent. Either way, it's not possible to work concrete and lift rebar, and walk all over it at the same time. For that very reason, wire should never be used on a big pad. If you have to walk on it, wire is pure junk. Fiber doesn't hurt anything, and it does add some strength, but it will never replace rebar.

I am going to do the rebar myself if I go that route. Your right....pulling up mesh or rebar just doesn't work!

 

[747driver]

Not sure on some of the information. $3600 for the whole job, concrete, mesh, labor, tax ?
I am calculating about 24 yards (guessing on footing lengths) so at least 25 yards ordered.
So how much per yard from your plant and what ever is left over is labor ? If so thats a bargain. If the $3600 is labor only then its still a deal around here.

Thoughts that. You might not care one way or the other about are
1. Mesh comes in different sizes. Smaller is hard to see even when troweling.
2. Rebar and mesh do two different jobs. One is not a substitute for the other. Mesh is the substitute for the wire grid, not rebar. I personally would much prefer to have the rebar. Even 3/8 or number 3 rebar would be preferred over the mesh if I could only have one of the choices. (For those that one to argue the point look up the manufactures recommendations for use of their products).
3. Saw cuts are needed soon, as in same day or first thing early next morning.
4. The more water added the weaker the final product, and more cracking is likely. Yes I realize more water makes it easier to work. Just keep the point in mind.
5. Depth of saw cuts need to be at least 1/4 of the slabs thickness.
6. Inside corners in the concrete pour will be more likly to crack. If you have any, such as boxes around plumbing, or post.
7. Some people like to put lag bolts or some type of anchor in the posts of the building for the concrete floor to pour around.

Total price for the concrete and finishing plus expansion joints. I will do the rebar work myself. There are no footers except at the 2 door openings.

I have concrete columns so the floor goes right up against them.

I have 1 post that is in the middle for a loft support. I have already poured a 12" sono tube so that there is no sharp corners for the floor to crack.

 

[ovrszd]

If I put rebar in they won't be able to back in. The 14' door is high enough for them to back in. If I go with just a fiber mix then no problem for the truck to back in.

If they can't back in then it's up to you or your finish guy to get it to the back of the building. Make sure everyone understands that before the truck shows up.

 

[ovrszd]

The first thing that I need to see in a concrete contractor is if they are using rebar set on chairs. If I don't see that, they don't pass the test. When they tell me that they lift it as the go, I know that they are a liar, or incompetent. Either way, it's not possible to work concrete and lift rebar, and walk all over it at the same time. For that very reason, wire should never be used on a big pad. If you have to walk on it, wire is pure junk. Fiber doesn't hurt anything, and it does add some strength, but it will never replace rebar.

I agree. I've torn out several pads with wire mesh. It's always at the bottom of the concrete. Turn a chunk over and you can see it.

 

[RNeumann]

I will see what the contractor recommends. If I go the rebar route then the truck can't back in. It will take 100 20' sticks of rebar !!

Trucks drive right over the rebar- dobies in the back till he is clear of the door. Most trucks can tailgate 15-20’ so that’s of no concern.

The front form is the same regardless of reinforcement

 

[747driver]

Since I am putting various runs of pvc conduit under the slab, what size would you recommend ? 2" 1 1/2 "
1" ? Also would you run THHN wire thru the conduit ? Don't think you can run romex thru conduit.