Nuts and bolts for welding

   / Nuts and bolts for welding #11  
Is the nut really being used as a nut, or just a ring?

If just a ring, some metal houses have smooth rolled rings in mild steel that may work better for you.
I would guess it is a head to pound it in n the ground. I have made a few trap stakes like that
 
   / Nuts and bolts for welding #12  
Figure that you'll be welding thick rebar to thick nut material so you want to use as much power as your welder can muster. I throw a lot of amps at the nut/bar connection since you really only get the one pass.

For some reason, I have a hard time welding to rebar. Maybe the coating.

Re-bar (especially imported stuff) is made from 100% scrap metal so there are various different materials melted together with minimal QC of the content. I have had the stuff actually foam up and fall away. Boss bought a bunch of seamed pipe made in Italy real cheap. First job had that foaming problem and some other strange porosity problems. We threw away more than we used. Penny wise and pound foolish.

Ron
 
   / Nuts and bolts for welding #13  
Re-bar (especially imported stuff) is made from 100% scrap metal so there are various different materials melted together with minimal QC of the content. I have had the stuff actually foam up and fall away. Boss bought a bunch of seamed pipe made in Italy real cheap. First job had that foaming problem and some other strange porosity problems. We threw away more than we used. Penny wise and pound foolish.

Ron

Cutting it it can be bad too. I learned long ago not to cut rebar with my bandsaw. Too many hard inclusions that like to kill the set on the blade. $2.00 piece of rebar ruined a $45.00 saw blade. Never had a problem welding it though.
 
   / Nuts and bolts for welding #14  
I have never trapped and although I understand what you are talking about I would like to see a picture.

Will you post a picture of what you are making and how it is used ?

Thx
 
   / Nuts and bolts for welding #15  
Only weld on rebar that has a "W" stamped on the end. The other stuff isn't considered safely weldable. Also, some fasteners are still cadmium plated.
 
   / Nuts and bolts for welding #16  
ive made a ton of these trapping stakes for myself and others, from 2 to 3 foot to the long ones for DEEP water trapping i just use my stick welder and by the cheap zinc nuts - weld outdoors - i have a pair of OLD vice grips to hold the nut from sliding down the rebar - i like putting a big flat washer on first as the edges of the nut on a stake will catch the chain and get hunt up on the hex head when using foot holds - if you are using for conibears or just as a drown stake u can forgo the washer. Nice thing about rebar, it grabs nicely to wire to set your body hold traps at the right depth ;-)

I just lean the long rebar on something when welding and rotate it - the shorter stakes i weld vertical - never had any issues with them coming loose and have beat on them for many years, I use 7014 on all of mine - you can have your 6013 and 6011 i hate them on AC - havent welded any stakes with my new DC on 6010 or 7018s yet
 
   / Nuts and bolts for welding #17  
Weld nuts often for a thread fastener connection. Unplated, black iron or stainless work best.
Keep you snout out of the fumes no matter what your welding.
 

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