O my, I am comfused

[AxleHub]

Max 28 was out for a while -- he got his in early 2013 if I remember right. In 2014, Mahindra de-rated the engine and now calls it the Max 26 to stay under Tier 4 Final. It's pretty much the same exact tractor but with less rated HP.

The 1026R was the model before the 1025R, and is otherwise identical -- was just de-rated to 25HP (probably for same reasons as Max mentioned above).

When you "de rate" . . Does that mean they also "de tune" the engine too. If all it was would be a number change . . . Wouldn't that be called a lie and in violation ? As a recall . . That max28 was a few thousand more than their 25 . . I wonder how that all worked out.

So the j.d. 1025r is newer than the 1026r ?

Then it certainly seems like Nikko got a very cheap bid for a 1025r with drive on mmm deck and fel. As I recall they were more in the 17500 price range.

 

[KennyG]

I confess that although I looked at a J.D. I never even test drove it because I wouldn't own one (I like production recognition not name recognition).

However that doesn't mean it might not be good choices for others. Who now makes the J.D. engines in the 1 and 2 series. And who builds the tractors?

I did notice the sales person at the Tractor Central I stopped at was really both quite professionally skilled and helpful.

I also was very confused why J.D. puts their fel valve location where they do . . it seems totally exposed to harm. Any hints what their reasoning is.

It's kind of dangerous to discuss these "what tractor should I buy" questions since things change in time and are very local with specific dealers. My JD 2320 was built in Japan by Yanmar. JD is an international company and various tractors and engines are built in the US, Japan, India and other locations. Classic multinational approach to get the best value for each specific product. However, they all have the same corporate quality standards.

When I bought (5 years ago) I looked at JD, Kubota and New Holland. The Kubotas seemed about the same price and I didn't like the single pedal HST or the overall feel of the machine. The equivalent New Holland was more expensive and didn't have as good a mower deck. Other people would probably have a different experience. It was a bit of step to get me on a John Deere. Based on my history, I would have much preferred Allis Chalmers or International Harvester, but time moves on.

At the time, if I wanted to drive farther, I could have looked at Jinma and Bobcat. Neither of those dealers exist today. Today I could find Branson, Mahindra and TYM, but they are not really local.

Where is the FEL valve on the new ones? On my 2320 the SCV is inside the frame under the seat. Some people have worried that the FEL connections, under the floor board are exposed, but in five years of beating around, including being buried up to the frame a couple of times, I haven't damaged anything.

 

[gladehound]

Tractors are designed for pushing and pulling. They are frequently used for dozer work in Asia with proper blades. If a tractor doesn't push or pull to your satisfaction, a bigger tractor is needed.

Some FELs are under built and you have to be careful of this. This was not the case on my LB1914, that FEL was weak hydraulically but mighty in structure. A blanket statement that you shouldn't "bulldoze" with a FEL simply is not true. My DS4510HS is the opposite. Mighty in hydraulics but flexes more than I would like. So with this I have to be more careful than with the 1914. This is something to check when you test machines. Push into an unmovable pile with one corner of the bucket and see how much flex you get. Some flex more than others.

As was mentioned by tman, try one of these (see link). You might be able to negotiate in your mower and stay under $15K. It gives you a little more heft but is still nearly the same foot print as a SCUT.

http://www.tractorhouse.com/listingsdetail/detail.aspx?OHID=8478683

 

[AxleHub]

Where is the FEL valve on the new ones? On my 2320 the SCV is inside the frame under the seat. Some people have worried that the FEL connections, under the floor board are exposed, but in five years of beating around, including being buried up to the frame a couple of times, I haven't damaged anything.

Actually I should have said the valve connection for the fel hoses Its located on the far right hand outside under the floor. More importantly it seems to angle to the right side facing the hose connections out.

 

[TJP89]

When you "de rate" . . Does that mean they also "de tune" the engine too. If all it was would be a number change . . . Wouldn't that be called a lie and in violation ? As a recall . . That max28 was a few thousand more than their 25 . . I wonder how that all worked out.

So the j.d. 1025r is newer than the 1026r ?

Then it certainly seems like Nikko got a very cheap bid for a 1025r with drive on mmm deck and fel. As I recall they were more in the 17500 price range.

Axlehub, you should know that what's legal and what's ethical are often two very different things. I was reading about the Volkswagen scandal a few days ago, and it seems that the whole emissions testing and numbers are a complete joke. Even with proper spec, what actually coming out the tailpipe is very different than what the emission sheet shows. Tightening a few bolts and making some adjustments to detune the engine is tame compared to what goes on...and is considered legit.

On price, I'd say that 1025 OTD is a very good price. When I was looking at SCUTs, I think a MMM, tractor and FEL was close to 20K, especially from JD. The 1025 is meant to be the TLB for the 1 series SCUTs, so maybe that accounts for it. But, IMO that's a very good price for that package. Nothing wrong with the 1025 either, and I doubt you'll find a better price. Keep looking though.

 

[Poopdeck Pappy]

. . . Also something the has the safe under belly as immseeing alot of pictures of people hitting crap underneath a breaking hoses.

Do they make under belly protection?

If you buy a Kubota BX, BXpanded makes their UnderArmor for it. It's about $150 and it's a 10 minute (or less) job to install it. Easy, cheap and effective.

 

[gladehound]

Even a BIG tractor with a blade can't push dirt like big dozer. I borrowed a D3 dozer to grade my driveway. My L3240 against a a D3 dozer was absolutely no contest. It was comparing a small tractor to a wheelbarrow.

How much something can push or pull is directly proportional to it's weight (assuming appropriate gearing).

A D3 at ~30,000 pounds weighs near 10x what an L3240 weighs (tractor only). When comparing to a D3, I would think a BIG tractor would be something at least 30,000 pounds. Pound for pound tractors push and pull about as well as anything. The appropriate comparison to a D3 would be something like an 8XXX series John Deere, which also weighs around 30,000 pounds.

If you want something to push like a 30,000 pound machine, get a 30,000 pound machine.

 

[4570Man]

How much something can push or pull is directly proportional to it's weight (assuming appropriate gearing). A D3 at ~30,000 pounds weighs near 10x what an L3240 weighs (tractor only). When comparing to a D3, I would think a BIG tractor would be something at least 30,000 pounds. Pound for pound tractors push and pull about as well as anything. The appropriate comparison to a D3 would be something like an 8XXX series John Deere, which also weighs around 30,000 pounds. If you want something to push like a 30,000 pound machine, get a 30,000 pound machine.

The D3 was "only" about 4 times heavier. I said big dozer VS a big tractor. I would consider a big dozer to be at least a D8 which is about 80,000 pounds.

 

[gladehound]

The D3 was "only" about 4 times heavier. I said big dozer VS a big tractor. I would consider a big dozer to be at least a D8 which is about 60,000 pounds.

I was simply pointing out that it is the weight and not "bull dozer" vs "tractor" that gives a machine it's ability to push or pull for the benefit of those who may be newer to machines. Sorry that I misunderstood your statement.

 

[4570Man]

I was simply pointing out that it is the weight and not "bull dozer" vs "tractor" that gives a machine it's ability to push or pull for the benefit of those who may be newer to machines. Sorry that I misunderstood your statement.

I know, but if the weight was equal the dozer would still win because of the tracks VS tires. It's amazing how many videos are on YouTube of a large tractor VS a jacked up mud trucks. The tractor weighs 5 times as much with 1/5 the hp, and most people think the truck will win the pull.