Snow Of Snow and FELs and Such

narcnh · Dec 6, 2003

Well, today I plowed my driveway for the first time and used my 7800 to do it, also for the first time. At my last house I used my old 1750 to move snow around (read “play in the snow”) after my plowman did my driveway, but here I am doing it solo. I do not envy anyone who does this full time. This driveway is about 500 feet long (not counting the dirt farm road that continues on past the house for a few thousand feet), hardpack, and on a serious hill. Fortunately, it is pretty straight. I figured I’d do it in stages, before the snow got too deep, since we are supposed to get upwards of 2 feet by tomorrow. It went well, considering I am a rank newbie at this, and I even managed to keep my cigar lit in the snow. /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif I survived to type this email, which is something of an achievement, but could use some advice.

Even though I have a Woods RB72, I used the FEL. I went down the middle to the bottom, letting gravity work with me and knowing I could dig the bucket in, if I started to slip (I have R3’s with filled rear tires and spacers). Then I went down either side to clean up. Here are my questions:

1) FEL forward or RB in reverse? It went pretty smoothly with the FEL, and the tractor is a lot more maneuverable without the RB. But, would the RB have made doing the sides easier?

2) Does my approach of going down the middle and then doing the sides make sense? Has anyone found a better method on a steep hill?

3) Chains. I used the recommendations I read in the archives, namely, wait to see if you really need them. I do. With the turf tires my front tires slid pretty badly at times and I almost got hung up in the ditch I put in this past fall (which would have been poetic justice). /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif Based on that fun experience, I decided I needed front and rear chains. Again, from the archives, I found tirechains.com, and decided to go with the V-bar ladder chains with spring adjusters, but couldn’t find my front tires listed (24x8.5x14). The guy at tc.com was very helpful and told me I needed to buy the 25x8.5x14 and remove a few side chain links. Question: How hard is that to do? Do I need bolt cutters, or can I pry them apart? I don’t have a shop set up, so this is going to be done in the garage with primitive tools like screwdrivers, pry bars and flint adzes. Should I stock up on some new cuss words? Is there a basic approach to doing this? Should I just bail and go buy whatever my dealer has?

Sorry for the long-worded post, but I thought the details would help.

Thanks in advance! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Junkman · Dec 6, 2003

can't answer your questions about technique, but I can suggest that you plow wide for the first storm, so you have room for the snow the next time....Otherwise you are going to be driving a bob sled run to your house.....
On the chain situation, call St. Pierre Chain in Worcester MA and they will manufacturer any size chain that you need. Great people to do business with and I have known them for 30 years. The nice lady that answers the phone is very knowledgeable in the product line and will give you a good price on the chains...

St Pierre Chain & Cable Co Call them for a quote on the chain size that you need. They manufacture and distribute tire chains and will also sell direct......

St. Pierre Manufacturing Corporation
317 East Mountain Street
Worcester, MA 01606
United States

Phone: 508-853-8010
Fax: 508-853-3860

email: info@stpierreusa.com

Thomas · Dec 7, 2003

Bundle up than go an diesel up and have some more fun,for this storm going to continue thru out the evening hours..oh and the winds are going to increase which means drifting which means more seat time for you. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Have you pay Townline Equipment a visit before??..for they sell darn good chains at a fair price,also they had at one time bunch good + of used tire chains in all sizes.
I doubt very much if Bob or Steve will have the dealership open today tho.

17F..Still snowing. /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif

sandyc · Dec 7, 2003

Looks like it is getting to be time to warm up the Bota and start playing...er, I mean snowblowing the drive. Some parts of the drive are bare and some are well, shall we say, not bare!
Man I am glad that my wife convinced me to get a cab on my bx2200....I am staying warm and dry!
I ran chains last year and there are a couple of things I found out the hard way. Make sure your chains clear any pieces and parts of the tractor before using(read...who needs spacers....ooops). Use spreaders and keep them tight. Don't spin the tires with chains as you'll dig up gravel and or scar tar.

Take it slow! See ya

MikePA · Dec 7, 2003

<font color="blue"> 1) FEL forward or RB in reverse? It went pretty smoothly with the FEL, and the tractor is a lot more maneuverable without the RB. But, would the RB have made doing the sides easier? </font>
I have a RB and have yet to use anything but the FEL to plow snow. Of course, the RB sits outside at the barn, so to get to it to install it means plowing with the FEL to get there. /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif I don't have enough room in the garage for the tractor to have any rear attachments installed.

<font color="blue">2) Does my approach of going down the middle and then doing the sides make sense? Has anyone found a better method on a steep hill?</font>
I plow down the center as well, then I move out to the edge of the road/driveway. This lets me 'inch' out to find the edge of the road. This also means I have an area cleaned of snow that my rear tires are on.

I have chains (from tirechains.com), but I have yet to use them. Haven't needed them. I used rear wheel weights for the first time this year and they made a nice improvement to the pushing capability of the tractor. Note that all the places I plow are paved, so even though the 2 other driveways I clear are not flat, my R4s have worked fine without chains. I find that when 3 wheels begin to spin, the bucket is full and it's time to empty it.

Egon · Dec 7, 2003

On chains: Cutting links can also be done with a hacksaw and visegrip to hold the link. The bolt cutters are much easier. You may find only the rears are required so why not try that first and then if needed add the fronts. The v bar may make for a very bouncy ride on hard surfaces.

On technique: As you do more you will try different methods till you hit on the one which fits your circumstances. If the snow is realy deep you may have to make a first pass on the outside. On long runs try the rear blade either forward or in reverse. And, as others have stated, keep piled snow well back to make room for more. You may have to spend some time going back and forth at an angle to do this. This can be done when it is a nice day. It may also help to have markers on items that may be covered and hit by a blade.

Have fun

Egon

narcnh · Dec 7, 2003

Thanks, all, for the advice. Getting ready to go back out and play some more in the snow. Hard to measure, because of the drifting, but in a couple of protected areas I measured 24 inches so far. Good news is I think the worst is over. I think.

Thomas, I bought my first tractor from Townline and traded it in there for my B7800. Bob, BJ and Steve are good guys. My only issue with them was that I bought a set of rear chains for my old 1750, which I couldn't get to stay on for the life of me, so I never used them. Didn’t really need them on my little driveway back then. Knowing a little more now, I probably needed to remove some links, or else they just gave me the wrong size. Cost me $250, and they took them back in trade five years later for $150. Will probably swing by there on Monday to see what they have. If I order from tirechain,com, they won’t get here until Wednesday, anyway.