Official Two Tractor Owner

[WVH1977]

As to the lower draft link balls. Aren't they easily replaceable?? A mechanism that allows the ball to be removed from the lower arms?? If so, the balls can be purchased at any good farm and home store. Don't buy new lower arms. You will be terrified at the price.

A canopy is nice if you are going to depend on this tractor to do your Summer mowing.

Maybe take a good picture of the lower arm ends and we'll brainstorm about the ability to replace the ball.

Here are some pics. I did not know there was a way to get those balls in and out.

 

[JB13502]

Looks like you would have to cut the ends off, and weld a new set on. Not sure how often you will be changing rear implements, but Pat's Quick Hitch would be a quick and permanent fix. Granted, they're not cheap, but a have them on my Ford 4000 and wouldn't be without them.

 

[ovrszd]

I agree with JB. My tractor supply store stocks the weld on ends. That's the best fix.

 

[WVH1977]

I agree also. I priced some new draft arms and they are $390 a piece OEM and $290 a piece aftermarket. I am going to talk with a couple of welder friends and see if one of them will do it for me. Also considering the quick hitch system.

I got the valve stem fixed and put a little bit of air in their to get it right and it is holding good and not leaking. I am just glad it came out with no problem and the new one went right in.

I took it over my neighbors to ask about the wiring for the lights. He is going to help me with it. He was impressed with how well kept the tractor was especially the metal hood and front cover. He said it is rare to see them that old without dents and dings in them.

 

[WVH1977]

One more thing, the tractor has two rear remotes on it. It needs new hoses. I am going to get measurements and get them in good working order then I can get a hydraulic top link. :thumbsup:

 

[ovrszd]

I took it over my neighbors to ask about the wiring for the lights. He is going to help me with it. He was impressed with how well kept the tractor was especially the metal hood and front cover. He said it is rare to see them that old without dents and dings in them.

More rare than any of us can imagine. I think you have a jewel.

Obviously it's done 3pt chores to have worn the link ends that bad.

The operator valued this tractor and concentrated on not abusing it. That's a win for you!!!

 

[ovrszd]

I just looked at the lower link balls closer. I'd run it that way. Have you measured the inside diameter to see if they are worn out??

CAT II lower link pins are 1 1/8". 1.12" if using a caliper to measure them.

 

[WVH1977]

I just looked at the lower link balls closer. I'd run it that way. Have you measured the inside diameter to see if they are worn out??

CAT II lower link pins are 1 1/8". 1.12" if using a caliper to measure them.

They are a little over 1 1/8". Not quite 1 3/16". When I put a bushing in there it was loose but I think I can use it until I get a permanent fix done. It will drive me nuts knowing they are a little loose.

 

[ovrszd]

They are a little over 1 1/8". Not quite 1 3/16". When I put a bushing in there it was loose but I think I can use it until I get a permanent fix done. It will drive me nuts knowing they are a little loose.

I'm like that too. I'd use it that way until you've put enough hours on it to become confident in it's condition. Would hate to see you spend money on something like this and then realize you have to spend money on a necessity repair.

Anxious to hear your reports about the tractor. It's definitely a Queen!!!!

 

[WVH1977]

Here are some more photos with a CAT II pin: