Oil & Fuel Oil Drain Plug Is Leaking--Any Suggestions?

[ray66v]

Go to NAPA, (or similar store),with the plug, and see if they have a copper washer that fits on it.

The washer can compress some, and provide a seal.

Otherwise put some pipe dope on the threads, by the head of the bolt only, and run it in.

 

[LD1]

If the threads are as bad as you imply, don't just use sealer/washer/gasket and hope that it holds. that is bad advice. Teflon tape is made to seal threads, not replace or repair damaged threads.

Take the oil pan off, fix it right, and have peice of mind.

If you band-aid it, you will be constantly checking it and that will be a pita.

A couple hours to remove the pan and a few dollars at a machine shop...if you arent equiped to fix yourself...is sure better than a trashed engine because the band-aid didn't work.

 

[sphowe]

I recently ran into the same problem with a used DK45 I purchased. In order to repair it correctly you will need to drain the oil. The pans are aluminum and a real pain to remove but it shouldn't be needed. On mine the threaded portion of the pan was twice as deep as the normal drain plug so all that is needed is a longer fine thread metric bolt to engage the threads that are not damaged in the pan. I picked up a longer bolt from my dealer and cut it to the proper length. Be sure that the bolt is no longer than the depth of the threads in the pan to avoid contact with internal parts. A small amount of thread sealer for insurance and careful tightening resolved my problem. It may take a couple of hours but it is a solid fix and is more reliable than any of the repair type plugs I have used.

 

[santacruzer]

LD1,
I had that happen to a pickup I had. The guys I knew that I trusted the most said to drop the pan and work from there. Re-tapping in place might result in "stray" metal in the pan.

I slept better after that. Paul

 

[LD1]

LD1,
I had that happen to a pickup I had. The guys I knew that I trusted the most said to drop the pan and work from there. Re-tapping in place might result in "stray" metal in the pan.

I slept better after that. Paul

It's not the tapping you have to worry a whole lot about because as mentioned before, you can put grease on the tap and catch 90% of the metal.

It's the drilling, if needed, to attain the correct sized hole before you tap.

If it were mine I'd drop the pan. And why you're in there is a good opportunity to check things out like cylinder walls, crank bearing play and rod bearing play. Depends on the hours on the unit, I'd probabally even pull a cap or two just to see how the bearings look.

 

[Oleozz]

I recently ran into the same problem with a used DK45 I purchased. In order to repair it correctly you will need to drain the oil. The pans are aluminum and a real pain to remove but it shouldn't be needed. On mine the threaded portion of the pan was twice as deep as the normal drain plug so all that is needed is a longer fine thread metric bolt to engage the threads that are not damaged in the pan. I picked up a longer bolt from my dealer and cut it to the proper length. Be sure that the bolt is no longer than the depth of the threads in the pan to avoid contact with internal parts. A small amount of thread sealer for insurance and careful tightening resolved my problem. It may take a couple of hours but it is a solid fix and is more reliable than any of the repair type plugs I have used.

I really appreciate everyone's advice. If the pans are aluminun that sure explains a lot. Mine is a 45 also. I was just under the tractor and it does look like a real job to get the pan off. I will try your suggestion, thanks for the help.

 

[Soundguy]

If, as implied, the pan has thick metal arounf the plug.. IMHO.. I'd pull it and tap for a larger size... taper threads will seal.. or you will need a face sealing option..

If it's cast aluminum.. I might stay away from fine threads...

soundguy

 

[ray66v]

Sorry, I misread the op. Obviously if the threads are stripped, leaking is not your problem, it's a symptom. Only new threads, like re tapping, or a new pan, can correctly solve this problem.

There are rubber, expanding, universal drain plugs, that you can use to get by.

 

[irwin]

Oversized drain plug, used them many times with very good result (auto repair shop), if it fails it'll do it at an oil change, check the plug's threads for aluminum threads from the pan every time you service it, then you can drop the pan if you have to.Drain Plugs (this is just an example, you'll have to know your size and match it with an oversized plug)

 

[Mike Costello]

I've delt with stripped oil drain plugs many times in the automotive business. Drain oil (if fairly new) into clean container. Take old plug to parts house and match size to self tapper plug. While there, get brass ring and throw away plastic ring.
Now for the critical part. Self tapper must be carefully started straight into damaged hole. Work slowly--once it grabs it will cut new threads quite nicely. Turn until new plug bottoms out (with brass ring) firmly on sealing surface. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN. Put oil back in engine.
I've never had an issue with metal shavings, but if you are the worrying type, you can flush the pan with a small amount of engine oil. By the way, the biggest reason for leaking oil drain plugs is over tightening fueled by worry, especially on aluminum oil pans. If you're the paranoid type, try a Fumoto Valve and never have to remove a drain plug again. Mike.