Oil & Fuel Oil Filter Cross Reference

[SARG]

From all that I have read the Fram ranks very close to the bottom because of the cardboard materials they started using on the ends to hold the filter materials in place. Something about the "glue" used breaking down and the paper filter element collapsing.

I also read that the Purolator Pure One variety is rated as one of the best because it uses three different materials within the element. I opted to use the Pure One on all my vehicles & tractor and found the easiest source is on Amazon.com

 

[Buckeyeman]

Wix and Purolator Prue One are two of the best filters out there. They are easier to come by then say OEM if you live far away from a dealer. Baldwin and Fleetguard are also two good filters but are harder to come by. Fram are junk IMO.

 

[LD1]

Engine Oil Filter Study

This is a good site to read for about everything you want to know on oilfilters.

It is a little outdated so some things may have changed, for example there is no mention of the fram XG filters, which I think came out sometime after his review.

If you take note, many filters are basically the same as a purolator. Such as the motocraft, powerflo, and proline.

Wix is pretty much the same as the napa and napa golds.

And fram makes the filters for pennzoil and quakerstate. And the only difference between the PH and DG is a nitrile vs silicon drainback valve. But the same crappy paper filter with cardboard ends.

And MOPAR brand filters are made by various sources, including fram, wix, and purolator. So when you buy a $$$ mopar filter, you may just be getting a junk fram. How do we know that kubota is any different??

There are good filters out there and bad filters out there. The only way to know what you are getting is to take them appart. Which I always do after an oil change, so I have seen the insides of several filters. And while the fram PH and DG filters are junk, the XG's are near the best that I have seen.
They have metal end caps and synthetic fiber filter media with metal mesh screen and a good drainback valve. But to each his own.

 

[The Fred]

I have a few oil filters torn apart on the bench, all replacements for the famously overpriced Kubota HH164-32340.
When I get time this weekend I will post pictures and compare them letting all of us see the inner gutZ.
Although I know little about the actual filter media I can comment on the build quality and measure the bypass valve setting and canister thickness.

Fred

 

[buickanddeere]

Given the amount of counterfeit filters, antifreeze, lubricants and fasteners out there. The average consumer seems unaware that low grade items can be packaged with a high end label and box.
Even the military, nuclear , marine and aviation industries have been hit with fake low grade high priced parts. Anybody ever consider that the local parts store just unloads product off the truck and doesn't check the source or run quality audits?
For the little bitty difference in price and on occasion is even cheaper. I'll go to the dealer for parts .

 

[LD1]

Most times the price difference isn't little bitty. And most times for equal or less money, a better product can be had aftermarket.

 

[The Fred]

Buying some oil filters right now.

Price lowest to highest is $2.65-$10.80

Now I most likely won't be doing a side by side compare on the hydro filters at 45 bux a shot!

Fred

 

[buickanddeere]

Most times the price difference isn't little bitty. And most times for equal or less money, a better product can be had aftermarket.

On the overall operating costs of the machine . You can't even find the $20 difference a year saved from thousands of $$$.
I would rather have the peace of mind the oil and filters are less likely to be low quality fakes.

 

[The Fred]

On the overall operating costs of the machine . You can't even find the $20 difference a year saved from thousands of $$$.
I would rather have the peace of mind the oil and filters are less likely to be low quality fakes.

Mr. Buick.....there are other reasons I choose the aftermarket line of filters. Here's one and I don't want this thread locked from dealer bashing. I have a Cub Cadet (Mitsu diesel) and everytime I go to the dealer and buy a filter they charge me full tilt 18 bux (oil filter). Funny thing it comes in a plain white box and is spray painted black and the dealer installs there own sticker over the top. Now I called him on this a few years back because these used to come in a Mitsubishi box and had all the OE markings on it (fits a Subaru Justy by the way) and when I tore one apart it was a CHEAP CHEAP 2 dollar filter he reboxed. I even stripped the paint off to reveal the mighty name on it. I went back and showed him, he ASSURED me these are factory filters, I called his BS and never went back. Not that it matters but same dealer is doing this across the board with his filters, still to this day.

Fred

 

[LD1]

Plain and simple: I don't like paying more for only a name. I don't mind paying for quality though. Paying for the name however is exaxtally what you are doing 90% of the time you buy OEM. Because OEM doesn't make oil, filters, bearings, belts, etc.

If I need a belt, I get gates or Goodyear. Why pay more for OEM that may be rebranded lesser quality? Same with about everything else.

Just like the driveshaf center bearing I am soon to replace on my long wheel base dodge. I can get a timken unit for half of OEM cost, and lord knows who was the low bidder that made it for them.

Don't get me wrong. There is pleanty of aftermarket junk too. But there is also lots of aftermarket parts that far exceed OEM for similar or less money. So why would you spend more for lesser quality?