Oil pan drain plugs?

[JRobyn]

Checking a few of the pdf manuals I have on hand - FIL's Cub 7260 Service Manual shows torque values for the trans drain plug, but nothing for the oil pan. The Owners's Manual DOES have a torque spec for the oil pan plug.

I only have hard copies for the Kubota. Will check in a few.

Update: Y'all are exactly right for Kubota. Neither the Owner's nor the Workshop manuals list any torque spec for the drain plugs anywhere. Just "reinstall the drain plug". About the only thing the Owner's has is rear wheel bolt torque. Lotsa specs for most everything in the Workshop, but not those plugs. I did notice that the "general" fastener torque specs have different values for not only bolt material/grade, but also for what it threads into, either "Ordinariness" (;-) or "Aluminum". 9T bolts are only used for "ordinariness".

 

[bigtiller]

I did once do an experiment to check my personal torque calibration on a range of fasteners by tightening them to what felt like the target torque and then checking with a torque wrench. Turns out I'm in the ballpark on small fasteners and too light on larger ones.

I have done that also. I think it is an excellent way for the beginner mechanic to learn how to "feel" varying torque ranges. And a refresher for the old pros that haven't turned many wrenches for years.

It sure would be easier to learn this if the manuals would give a little better guidance.

 

[newbury]

Some of my equipment advises to replace the copper washer every time you take of the drain plug.
None specify torque.

But I vastly prefer the Fumoto.

 

[CincyFlyer]

Just because there is no torque spec in the manual that you have for your tractor does not mean that there is no torque spec! Obviously, a steel plug in an iron oil pan is different from one in an aluminum pan, etc. The numbers are out there. But, as I've both prepared racing cars and motorcycles, and owned a light plane, there is one other way to be certain that critical items do not come loose (and in most cases, a drain plug is more critical than an engine mount bolt—at least on a tractor!) Safety wire! The wire and pliers are cheap, and a decent cobalt drill can set up up with holes in your bolt or nut head (I had a little "vee" fixture with a couple of different sized holes for drilling them across the apex of the hex.) Works great. Looks cool. And safety wire pliers are a lot of fun to spin.