Oil & Fuel Oil

[lakngulf]

As you face the tractor left side. Its the opposite side that the manual shows you.

Thanks, SunnyJim and Mousefield. Now I do not feel like a complete idiot. Do they read backwards in Korea, or drive on the wrong side of the road?

 

[jimmyj]

ha ha ha. That dipstick is pretty hard to find actually.

I just did an oil change. I have 2 questions for the group.

1. I dropped a wrench when the hood was open and the engine was running and I broke a "nacho chip" size piece off one of the fan blades. Do you think it matters? Everything seems OK.

2. The oils is about 1/4" fuller than the top marker for full on the dipstick. Should I drain a bit out?

 

[Mousefield]

Jimmyj
"nacho chip" size is not that much. Is the rest of the fan blade solid? I would be tempted to leave it. Not sure if a small chip would create an imbalance and that cause further problems, like wearing out your bearing. I would not bother to drain any oil, ¼ inch is not much.

 

[SunnyJim]

I would not worry about a little over full its not an issue. Seriously over filled then you need to drain some out.

 

[dex3361]

ha ha ha. That dipstick is pretty hard to find actually.

I just did an oil change. I have 2 questions for the group.

1. I dropped a wrench when the hood was open and the engine was running and I broke a "nacho chip" size piece off one of the fan blades. Do you think it matters? Everything seems OK.

I would use some of the aluminum foil duct tape to cover the gap that the wrench broke out. Like in this link most heat and air stores have it on the shelf.
Foil Tape - Aluminum Foil Tapes - Acrylic Adhesive

 

[BTI]

I would replace it, it has been compromised and if it decides to let go...could take out the radiator.
Then the price of the fan will seem miniscule.
The fans are fairly cheap actually.

BTI

 

[lakngulf]

The dip stick shows that the engine oil in my Kioti is at a good level. Thanks to all for helping me find the darn thing.

 

[mx5guy]

I have seen a fan repair go through the rad, not a pretty sight, friend was lucky in a way as it flew apart in his driveway, he shut the car off when he hear a bang / cluck under the hood, he also has a dent in hood, from inside rather than outside. Buy a new blade imagine if my friend had hood open when the fan blew apart?

 

[robintexas]

ha ha ha. That dipstick is pretty hard to find actually.

I just did an oil change. I have 2 questions for the group.

1. I dropped a wrench when the hood was open and the engine was running and I broke a "nacho chip" size piece off one of the fan blades. Do you think it matters? Everything seems OK.

2. The oils is about 1/4" fuller than the top marker for full on the dipstick. Should I drain a bit out?

Gentle people
It is not the size or shape of the defect that is the issue it is the stress that the the loss of material places on the remaining piece. You may be able to run for hundreds of hours with no consequences or only a few hours before additional component destruction takes place. My advice is any component that operates at high speed needs to be treated with respect. Bite the bullet and replace the component.

 

[Cami]

Holy thread resurrection, Batman!

 

[KBEAT]

I noticed that most everyone is running 15W40 rather than the 10W30/10W40 that Kioti lists. I also have the 15W40 in mine as it was all I could find at the time that was Diesel rated. I was going to change it early since I had been worried about cold starts. Anything to worry about or not ? Do most of you run the 15W40 all year ?

 

[Mousefield]

Just did my second oil change at 200 hours and used 15W40W both times.

 

[Coyote machine]

I say pick an oil brand that is readily available, that you like the price point of, and is a major name brand known in most parts of the known world and then change filter and oil as recommended by the oil brand and your use of your tractor. Changing the filter with the oil when it needs changing is way more important than the specific brand you choose to use.
1/4 inch high on the stick- no worries. Chipped fan blade is your call- best thing is to not have ANY tools around when the motor is running- for future reference. You got off easy this time. If it was me- if the rest of the blade shows no visible cracks then I'd leave it alone.

Changing hydraulic oil is not as necessary as the manual states, according to my dealer- who I rely upon for this type of situation- they do NOT change the hydraulic trans oil unless it looks or smells funny. Otherwise they advise to just change filter and top off the oil at recommended intervals. Grade of oil is also dependent upon what type of service and location and high low temp range during use. A 15/40 is fine for most situations because it has a wide range. I choose to use Amsoil 15-40 diesel oil,(synthetic) due to my prior experience with diesel cars and the extreme weather I often encounter.
I too find the Kioti owner's manual and shop manual to have outdated 'UNobtainiyum' oil specs that I searched high and low for, only to have my dealer tell me they are no longer in use - someone ought to inform DaeDong/Kioti to get on the case and start printing relevant info on the spec sheets!:confused2::thumbsup:

 

[SunnyJim]

I noticed that most everyone is running 15W40 rather than the 10W30/10W40 that Kioti lists. I also have the 15W40 in mine as it was all I could find at the time that was Diesel rated. I was going to change it early since I had been worried about cold starts. Anything to worry about or not ? Do most of you run the 15W40 all year ?

I am using a synthetic 15w-40 so no worries year round. I took operating environment and expected useage into account while doing my disicion making. It does not get that cold in this part of NC so no significant worries when it comes to cold starts.

At my next oil change I may use a 10w-30 also synthetic since I have a case of it already and its the same chemistry as the oil in my tractor now.:thumbsup:

 

[SunnyJim]

I say pick an oil brand that is readily available, that you like the price point of, and is a major name brand known in most parts of the known world and then change filter and oil as recommended by the oil brand and your use of your tractor. Changing the filter with the oil when it needs changing is way more important than the specific brand you choose to use.
1/4 inch high on the stick- no worries. Chipped fan blade is your call- best thing is to not have ANY tools around when the motor is running- for future reference. You got off easy this time. If it was me- if the rest of the blade shows no visible cracks then I'd leave it alone.

Changing hydraulic oil is not as necessary as the manual states, according to my dealer- who I rely upon for this type of situation- they do NOT change the hydraulic trans oil unless it looks or smells funny. Otherwise they advise to just change filter and top off the oil at recommended intervals. Grade of oil is also dependent upon what type of service and location and high low temp range during use. A 15/40 is fine for most situations because it has a wide range. I choose to use Amsoil 15-40 diesel oil,(synthetic) due to my prior experience with diesel cars and the extreme weather I often encounter.
I too find the Kioti owner's manual and shop manual to have outdated 'UNobtainiyum' oil specs that I searched high and low for, only to have my dealer tell me they are no longer in use - someone ought to inform DaeDong/Kioti to get on the case and start printing relevant info on the spec sheets!:confused2::thumbsup:

Those are some words to live by.:thumbsup:

I'm amsoiled up myself including the hydraulics on my CK25HST.

 

[ecrane99]

I just changed my oil using mobile1 10w30 synthetic from walmart.
After reading this thread, i think i should have used a diesl oil.
I have a CK30 with 100hrs. Did I do a bad thing??

 

[bp fick]

I noticed that most everyone is running 15W40 rather than the 10W30/10W40 that Kioti lists. I also have the 15W40 in mine as it was all I could find at the time that was Diesel rated. I was going to change it early since I had been worried about cold starts. Anything to worry about or not ? Do most of you run the 15W40 all year ?

No, I cannot use anything that heavy up here, as we get to -20 with regularity and the start up flow wouldn't be what I look for.

10w-30 Rotella semi-syn or 5w-40 Rotella synthetic. No issues.

 

[bp fick]

I just changed my oil using mobile1 10w30 synthetic from walmart.
After reading this thread, i think i should have used a diesl oil.
I have a CK30 with 100hrs. Did I do a bad thing??

Maybe, but there's little chance of harm. I don't believe that is diesel service rated. It is about suspending all the black particles. No harm done, but I personally would undo it, at my convenience. There are lots of oil guru types on here who might have stronger opinions than mine.

 

[Mousefield]

I just changed my oil using mobile1 10w30 synthetic from walmart.
After reading this thread, i think i should have used a diesl oil.
I have a CK30 with 100hrs. Did I do a bad thing??

I would change the oil and oil filter if indeed you put in non diesel oil.
Would not cost that much to replace the oil and filter but sure could cost a lot to repair/replace the engine. Err on the side of caution.

 

[SunnyJim]

I just changed my oil using mobile1 10w30 synthetic from walmart.
After reading this thread, i think i should have used a diesl oil.
I have a CK30 with 100hrs. Did I do a bad thing??

Calm down your ok. The minimum spec per Kioti's owners manual is CC/CD. Gasoline engine oils have a diesel rating of CF. If you check the back of the quart it is SM/CF. These little engines are designed for a global market that may not have the highest lubricant standards so using a CF rated diesel oil is still acceptable although may not be prefered in many eyes.

Mobil 1 10W-30

Mobil 1 10W-30 meets or exceeds the following industry specifications:

ACEA A1, B1, A5,B5
API SM,SL,SJ,EC,CF :thumbsup:
ILSAC GF-4

If you change it by 100 hours of use it should be just fine.