Ok bow enthusiasts I need your help.

[bullbreaker]

Like others have said take it to the right bow shop. You can adjust limb bolts for less draw weight but not to much.Thats why they have 60/70 , 50/60 limbs etc. Looks like a great deal ! Also limbs should be inspected for hairline cracks.
I love bowhunting/crossbowhunting more than rifle/blackpowder. Just more challengeing.Big Adrenaline -rush when you release arrow and hit correct vital zones.
I'd rather shoot one with bow than two with rifle but everyones different I guess.
Heres a good site IMO to learn a lot on : Archerytalk Archery & Bowhunting News Bowhunting archerytalk.com


Boone

 

[Rford]

Get yourself over to Archerytalk.com for some expert advice. I have an old Darton that looks similar but mine hasn't been camoed up...it has wood and laminated plastic limbs...looks nice, but its about a 1980s era bow and whiilte it shoots, it isn't really suitable for hunting because its too slow unless you want to take point-blank shots. My guess is mine is a 40#. I think yours is a 1990s era 500MC "Fast Flight" which came in 50/60 and 70/80 #s. You can find the specs on line. Your string looks pretty worn, but it might just need to be waxed. The site is a pendulum site, it looks like, which means it adjusts as your angle changes while up in a tree stand. That's why it has just one pin. The rest is just a cheap rest, but there's no reason you can't shoot the bow. Buy a cheap release and a few cheap arrows and shoot it a bit and see how you like it. You don't have to have the best equipment to have fun. The worst that can happen is you'll break a limb and it will send shards into your neck....just kidding.

You should release the poundage on the limbs, though. Start by tightening them up by turning the allen wrench bolts until they are tight, then put a white mark on each and turn them out equal turns about 4 or 5 turns to get the poundage down so when you draw you aren't pulling a lot of weight on old limbs because they can break....back them off equally and make sure you don't back them off all the way out...each revolution is about 2lbs or so. If its a 40# bow, that will put you down to where you can easily draw it. Those bows only had 50% let off, at most. I don't know what the 90 means but if its 90# that would be very special, unheard of, I think. You probably can't draw a 90# bow unless you can bench 300#.

If it doesn't shoot where you aim, there are lots of websites that explain how to correct that. Since you have single pin, you'll adjust by shooting "high or low" after you get it sighted in at a reasonable distance...which is probably 20 yards. It might be faster than I think and it might be a killing machine....

These old bows are fun for shooting fish. You don't have much invested, so no harm if it gets wet.

 

[Western]

That "sight" looks like a pendulum sight, or one that will move as the aim elevation changes. The string thing you mention sounds like a bow fishing spool which would have probably worked good with a pendulum sight.

You probably will get good enough fast enough to not need an "arm guard" ( different using a recurve though) but I think you will be happier with a fiber optic or other multi-pin sight. A 4 pin is good for 10,20,30,40 yards for starters.

Go to an archery shop and have them fit the bow to you, then you'll know for sure if it can be brought down to your draw length.
Worst case scenario you may be able to trade it in towards another bow at a archery shop.

 

[RobertBrown]

The first thing you have to determine is your own draw length, you can measure that yourself. 32.5 is pretty long, so unless your about 6'2, it's probably to long for you.
This draw length thing....you might could correct that, if it is too long. Some bows can be adjusted, and that may be one, but your photo is of the wrong side of the cam.
That is a 2 cam bow, not the latest technology by any means but, if the draw length is or can be adjusted to be correct, it is exactly what you need.
But if you need to buy a shorter string, or new cams, sell it and start looking for the right draw length..... one that is correct for your size.
Yes it has an overdraw, this enables you to shoot shorter arrows. Shorter arrows go faster than longer arrows, faster is flatter and flatter is more accurate ( "flatter" is as it pertains to trajectory).
Nobody uses an overdraw anymore.....except me.
I would suggest you avoid the bow shops, I've spent lots of time in them and my experience is .... well, it's a big waste of time and money. I suppose that it depends on the shop but if you can't afford a new bow, stay out of the bow shops because they will surely get in your pocket. Then they are out of business and your left to figure it out for yourself or find another shop.
Bows and arrows have been around since...well since forever. It's not that hard to teach yourself what is happening and how things work. You can get a bow press and do your own tuning, once you understand the principles involved.
The latest one cam, horizontal limb bows, are not necessary and entirely to temperamental. Faster is not better if you can't hit what your 325 fps arrow is aimed at.
The smaller and faster it gets, the harder it is to get things lined up and figured out.
What do you want this bow for? Are you going to hunt with it?

 

[beandip]

You can do all the work yourself, you just need to do all the necessary research. It will save you a bundle and you will earn another one of life's merit badges.
I have been shooting for about 25 years and have been in an archery shop exactly once. I was fortunate enough to have several friends who took the time to explain the proper way to set up a bow, and how to shoot properly. I have never bought a new bow.
Just this winter I splurged on a used E bay Martin which I am now setting up to use with a release(new to me). -E bay is your archery friend!
You appear to have everything you need to set up a nice bow you just need some technical help. You got some good leads in some of the responses, start hitting the forums. Good Luck!

 

[GregbkH]

I know a bit about bows. The arrow rest you have is a TM Hunter style rest. They are decent rests. My advice would be for you to remove the overdraw and put a new rest on the riser itself. It will increase your stability and accuracy especially since you are just starting out. Also, you should take it to an archery shop and have it taken apart and cleaned and greased. Strings and cables should be checked and replaced if necessary. For $29 you can't go wrong. Even if you spend another $100 - $150 for the tune up.

Good luck.

 

[JayC]

Thanks guys. I really appreciate the help! I would have posted earlier, but I kind of forgot about the thread.

I had a friend over and he loosened the Allen bolts to adjust the weight. I did get a couple shots off with it, but it is wildly inaccurate. I'm going to have someone else look at it. I have got to get the draw length adjusted. Like I said above, I had determined my draw length to be 28". This bow must be near the full draw length. I'm just trying to learn all about it before taking it in to the local pro shop. I don't like sounding like an idiot. :laughing: With how expensive new bows are I have been toying with the idea of having the thing gone through like suggested above. Do you guys think it's worthwhile putting any considerable amount into a bow this old?

 

[RobertBrown]

Do you guys think it's worthwhile putting any considerable amount into a bow this old?

No.
You paid 29$ for it, sell it, and get one that is closer to what you need, now that you are a little closer to knowing what your needs are. You might even make a few dollars. One of the reasons you got it so cheap was because of the ecessive draw length, not too many people can use that bow so it's hard to sell.
If you insist on goijg to a bow shop, see if they have a consigment rack and hang it on there, maybe some tall guy will need and give 50$ for it.
There are lots of used bows for sale, no need to try and make this one work. If you could get the draw lenth reduced 4" it's most likely going to be beyond what the bow was designed for.

 

[JayC]

I don't like digging up old threads, but I wanted to give an update. I ended up taking the old Darton to a pawn shop. I didn't want to put any money into something so old. Didn't get what I paid for it, but I wanted the dumb thing gone. I was tired of looking at it. I chalk it up to a lesson learned. I did keep the release and stabilizer, though. I gave the stabilizer to a friend.

I have been reading a LOT on Archery Talk. I have learned so much just by lurking around over there. I feel I have learned enough to start pressing my own bow to make adjustments. I have read a lot of good things about the Bowmaster press. I will get around to the Bowmaster some day, but my bow doesn't need a press. I was quite pleased to learn that.

I ended up with an '08 Martin Bengal from a relative for a good price. It came with a rest, sight, case, carbon arrows, and another release. The draw length is a bit too long for me, but I have modules on the way. I can shoot it the way it is now, but I hope to get it set right once the modules arrive. I ordered the modules on eBay for about a dollar more than Martin charges just for shipping on their online store. The Bengal shoots so much nicer than that old Darton did. :laughing: The Martin tech forums have also been a good help.

I'll throw up a photo if anyone wants to have a look. I got a six arrow Kiwikee Kwiver for it. I ended up breaking one of the carbon arrows when the target fell over. It seems like the list of things I want to get for the bow just doesn't end. :confused2: I took the string leeches off and put cat whiskers on. I'm kind of thinking I want to get some more leeches. I liked the way they look better.

 

[beandip]

Nice bow, I think you made the right move. I'm a fan of Martin that's what I shoot also.
Just remember that proper shooting technique, especially wrist position is a must with the shorter bows.
Good luck and keep practicing, only a couple months before hunting season.