OK, here goes, new guy with long question.

[J_J]

Thanks for the tip BobRip - not being familiar with tractors, it naturally follows I won't really know how to test a tractor. You are now the second person that mentioned the temp of the oil having an effect on performance. I am off to scan the site here to learn more about that. Thanks once again - Jim

The temp of the oil is not a big deal, since that is the way it works in all hydraulic machines. Of course you have more torque when the oil is cool, it is more dense. As oil heats up, it thins out, and get by bearings, seals, etc.
Automatic transmissions do the same thing. You have to base your decision on will it perform like you want it to do. You would have to run one of those test machines at Power-Trac for a couple of hours and still might not notice any difference. If it absolutely quits after it heats up, then you know that it is a problem. The problem you will have, is probable after purchasing one of the machines, is that you may think, I should have bought the larger one.

 

[RegL]

The temp of the oil is not a big deal, since that is the way it works in all hydraulic machines. Of course you have more torque when the oil is cool, it is more dense. As oil heats up, it thins out, and get by bearings, seals, etc.
Automatic transmissions do the same thing. You have to base your decision on will it perform like you want it to do. You would have to run one of those test machines at Power-Trac for a couple of hours and still might not notice any difference. If it absolutely quits after it heats up, then you know that it is a problem. The problem you will have, is probable after purchasing one of the machines, is that you may think, I should have bought the larger one.

I agree with JJ. I find that the thinning oil loss of torque to be noticeable only while mowing on hillsides. I don't think you would ever notice it while doing loader work.

 

[KentT]

At the risk of beating a dead horse, those of you who say oil temp is not an issue are NOT dealing with the PT-422s and older PT-425s with lower-torque wheel motors...

 

[BobRip]

I agree with JJ. I find that the thinning oil loss of torque to be noticeable only while mowing on hillsides. I don't think you would ever notice it while doing loader work.

I did recommend that he try hill climbing. I don't mean to over emphasize, but I have noticed it and others have commented on doing hills early in a mowing session so the fluid is still cool.

 

[MossRoad]

I agree with JJ. I find that the thinning oil loss of torque to be noticeable only while mowing on hillsides. I don't think you would ever notice it while doing loader work.

That is the way it works for us. The only time I notice a loss of hill climbing power is after mowing for an extended period. Brush hog will do it too, in thick grass, but not as much when just chopping sticks. This is one of the primary reasons I went with the 425 over the 422... the factory told me the 425 would spin the 60" mower better than the 422.

I would say, if you have hills to deal with, or you want to run the 60" mower, try to come up with the funds for the 425.

Let's compare the two side by side...

 

[BAGTIC]

Has anyone here, after buying their PT, wished that they had bought a SMALLER model? A larger model?

Attachments may come and go but whatever tractor you buy it will establish your limitations for all time.

 

[2deeskip]

Looking at the numbers on that comparison chart begs a question. With the 425 having an additional steering cylinder, 3 more HP, a canopy, ROPS, higher torque wheel motors, & being 7" longer, how can it weigh only 43# more than a 422? Seems to me the ROPS, or the additional steel for the lenght (that thing is made out of heavy stuff), would weigh more than that.
I, like jbman, have been "shopping" for a long time and have not pulled the trigger yet, altho I have been to Tazwell & asked questions before on this forum. I appreciate the honest feedback. I will probably go with a PT as soon as the $$ come together, but with the hills I have this wheel torque thing concerns me.
Skip

 

[jbman]

Well, the forum disappeared on me there for a couple days... I was afraid I broke it - by asking one too many lame newby questions!

I just want to say I appreciate all the input and advise. I think I have learned here that the thing I want to pay the closest attention to for a demo is just simply the power to the wheels. I want and need the dexterity and ease of implement change of the PT. I was hoping to be able to use it for some brute strength tasks, pulling and pushing. The mowing isn't an issue for me, but yanking a tree out of a snag after an ice storm, or pulling a log, stuff like that are things I would like to have some help with. We'll see, I may find the power is great. Thanks all, I'll be here watching and trying to learn.... I'm still not sure about which bucket to get.......or how well that mini hoe works without stabilizers.. ....... etc... etc.... etc................I'll try not to become a pest......... D

Jim

 

[MossRoad]

Well, the forum disappeared on me there for a couple days... I was afraid I broke it - by asking one too many lame newby questions!

I just want to say I appreciate all the input and advise. I think I have learned here that the thing I want to pay the closest attention to for a demo is just simply the power to the wheels. I want and need the dexterity and ease of implement change of the PT. I was hoping to be able to use it for some brute strength tasks, pulling and pushing. The mowing isn't an issue for me, but yanking a tree out of a snag after an ice storm, or pulling a log, stuff like that are things I would like to have some help with. We'll see, I may find the power is great. Thanks all, I'll be here watching and trying to learn.... I'm still not sure about which bucket to get.......or how well that mini hoe works without stabilizers.. ....... etc... etc.... etc................I'll try not to become a pest......... D

Jim

I don't have a mini-hoe, but here's my take on stabilizers...

On a normal backhoe, the bucket is connected to the dipper arm.
The dipper arm is connected to the boom.
The boom is connected to a swing point that can go 60 or more degrees off center to either side. That is why you need stabilizers on a backhoe. The load can go past the center of gravity left or right and tip you over on your side.

The mini hoe cannot swing left or right like a backhoe. You have to turn the whole tractor. You can still tip, but most likely it will be forward and backwards, the same as when you overload a bucket, lift, then turn the unit.

This is one of the things I don't think we've touched on in your thread... the PT pucker. That is, the unit can and will tip forward if you have a heavy load in the bucket and turn the steering wheel. Any articulated vehicle has its center of gravity change as you turn left or right. This is because the unit is shorter when turned and longer when straightened. The counterweight to the FEL is anything behind the front axles. As you turn the unit, the part of that counterweight that is behind the center pivot point moves to one side and closer to the front axle. You start to tip forward. If you straighten out the wheel, you tip back to level. It is quite unnerving if you do not expect it. But it is something that has to be known, talked about and dealt with every time you operate the machine.

Make sense so far?

 

[MossRoad]

Here is a very scientific test by two dedicated researchers that demonstrates the PT Pucker. By his hand signals, I believe he is asking for five more pounds of ballast.