OK its time for the great fluid change......

[GRUMPA]

Would very much like to know who did what when it came time to do this. This is for a KAMA TS354C. First I changed out my oil and fuel filter yesterday (6hrs). Took me some time because I never owned a tractor and the so called books they give you have nothing on how to do this. Oil change went without a hitch but it took more than I thought considering it was a 4 cyl (7qts). Fuel filter was somewhat of a booger to take off ( really crushed the old filter while taking it off). When I took off the fuel filter it had some sort of brown crusty stuff that really worried me so I went and found the sediment bowl and it was halfway full with the same stuff. Ended up being what appears to be rust.

Now since I figure there was a glitch with the fuel filter, I wonder what I can expect from the rest of the lubricants inside the tractor. Basically I would like to know where (if any) hidden drain plugs might be. Most are obvious but I'm kinda leaning towards the ones I dont know about if any. Like I said earlier the books you get are to put it mildly in sad shape when it comes to this. My climate isnt as severe like alot of you it pretty mild in the northern part of AZ but it gets down to 10 degrees at night in the winter but when the sun comes out it really warms up to above freezing and I will be using this thing once its up there all year round.

Plan on using hydraulic fluid instead of the recommended 20wt oil and I plan on using gear oil in the transfer case and trans/front dif. Do I need to be concerned about antifoaming lubricants when I do this? I really dont know from what I've read so far but its kinda leaning that way from what I've read about Jinmas and I figure that a Kama is really close to those. My tractor is still sitting on the side of my house in the city so it really hasent gotten any use since I bought it, but I really wanted to go thru this beast really well while I have access to all the hardware stores around here. 1 more thing while I'm typing, I noticed the bottom radiator hose is cracking and I mean really cracked. Is there a known problem with the factory hoses or did I just happen to get a bad 1?

 

[greg_g]

Never worked on a TS354, so I won't bother to try and fake my way through the specifics. But I have had two Jinmas and now a KAMA (TaiShan's big brother), so I can offer some generalities.

Make sort of a big funnel out of some fine screen mesh and use it as a sediment screen for a five gallon bucket. Wait till your tank is down to about two gallons, then remove the sediment bowl completely. Remove the fill cap, and let the fuel drain through the screen and into the bucket. Pour the (cleaner) fuel back through the tank repeatedly, till you don't see any more dirt/grit/rust getting caught in the screen. Clean everything up and put it back together. Discard the drained fuel, and refill with fresh

Chinese rubber typically doesn't like anti-freeze. And I'd be surprised if your tractor actually HAS any anti-freeze in it. Assuming you have scheduled a drain/flush/fill for the cooling system, I'd STRONGLY recommend you change all three hoses and clamps at the same time.

When use of the hydraulics is anticipated in cold weather, I recommend AW32. it's about a 10 weight equivalent, and a 5 gallon pail runs somewhere in the $19-$24 range.

Don't use price as the determining factor on which gear oil to buy. Absolutely positively do NOT use any gear oil that doesn't SPECIFICALLY identify itself ON the pail, that it's non-foaming or anti-foaming. The RIGHT stuff, will cost you ~$39 and up for a 5 gallon pail, blends ~$69 and up, synthetics ~$99 and up.

//greg//

 

[SevenCorners]

Greg you mentioned something that I have failed to notice or change: Water Hoses. I did change/flush the radiator, it was full of very rust colored water. Added 50/50 mix of antifreeze water and changed hose clamps. I did not change the hoses. Should I make the change with only 18 hours?

 

[RICHARDG]

I got 2 years and over 300 hrs on my original hoses,,so maybe that tells you something,,its a nortrac though,,don't know if they changed them or not,,don't think so,,,now the alternater belt went fast,,,,thingy

 

[mark1]

During the NY CTOA meeting in August many of us learned from others a great deal about our tractors!.One of the things many of us didn't know was that there is antifreeze specific for use in Diesels.It has some additive that slows the process of deteriorating the cylinder walls from the action of diesel combustion?? The additive can be purchased seperatly or specific diesel antifreeze bought by the gallon. Up to then I was using my regular automovive antifreze. Now if only I could remember the attive name?? "DSL" something?? /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif

 

[Bird]

Mark, I think it's SCA and the diesel antifreeze is discussed here as well as some other threads.

 

[JohnS]

My experience is all Jinma, but it might apply to the Kama.

I use the Fleet pre-charged anti-freeze for heavy duty diesels (red stuff). It is suppose to be what is used for wet sleaved engines. It is available at TSC and costs about $1 more a gallon. It does not have the typical green glycol smell.

A few years ago, the Jinma hoses did not have cord in them. They have since upgraded to using cord, but are still probably not as good as US purchased hoses. I replaced all three of mine. Some of the chinese rubber seems to deteriate very quickly. I have seen cracking on rubber coated fuel lines and backhoe hyd lines.

If what you have is already cracking, drain the system, and replace the hoses and clamps, as Greg suggested. Take the originals to the parts place, preferably a well stocked one that doesn't need a computer to match them! Might have to make some cuts to them from a different pattern, but no big deal. If you have nice radioused corners, the flexible hoses will work, over finding a molded one.

While the hoses are off, vigorously flush the radiator and the engine, with a hose. To effectively flush the engine, might have to remove thermostat. On Jinmas, from the factory there was some sand/rust in the blocks and radaitor. Your dealer might have already done this, though.

 

[RICHARDG]

Don't know,,[about a lot of things,really],,but I don't buy it,,,what makes a diesils cylinder walls any different than any other motors cylinder walls? Or if thats not the reason,,than maybe somebody could tell me what is?? Carbon steel,is carbon steel,,antifreeze that won't hurt this carbon steel,,,shouldn't hurt this carbon steel,,,,now aluminum vs carbon steel,,I WILL buy that one,,,heard a couple of vague/poor attemps at whats the difference,,but so far,,not convinced enough to go look for disel antifreeze,,,maybe somebody could give me a good reason here,,,other than its supposed to slow some kind of rusting or pitting problem or something like that,,,cause,like I said,,carbon steel,[in a motor anyways],and carbon steel is still carbon steel,,,and these chinese tractors are not high tech in any way,,,so you know they have no new alloys in them that have not been in use for the past 50 years,,,thingy

 

[F100Panel]

An Anti Cavitation additive is recommended by all Deisel Engine manufacturers. If you got a diesel in one of the big 3 pickups & the dealer finds no additive in the coolant your waranty is GONE.... Easiest to get at the Ford dealer but NAPA has it too. Sometimes the counter guys aren't familiar with it at NAPA but if they dig they'll come up with it....... Cheap insurance..... Cavitation from the combustion of diesel causes air bubbles around the sleeves/causing hot spots & wear will start there REAL fast. Cavitation will make the coolant abrasive on the outside of the sleeve too..... Overall it's not good..... /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif

 

[Bird]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( An Anti Cavitation additive is recommended by all Deisel Engine manufacturers )</font>

Actually, my Kubota manuals made no mention of anti-cavitation additives; only called for "permanent" type antifreeze; however, when I changed mine, I used the one with the additives from Tractor Supply Co. It was only a buck or two more than the one without, so why take a chance?