Tiller OK, so now that I have a tiller....

   / OK, so now that I have a tiller....
  • Thread Starter
#11  
Last one. After all, it's only dirt, but it's my freshly tilled dirt. /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif
 

Attachments

  • 624819-DSC00096.JPG
    624819-DSC00096.JPG
    85.9 KB · Views: 215
   / OK, so now that I have a tiller.... #12  
That ground looks pretty good to me. I am curious, though, about that skid adjustment and why you couldn't raise both the same. On my Bush Hog, I had to take out the one bolt at the top rear of each skid to put it in a different hole, but I also had to loosen two others (top and bottom at the front of the skid) that served as hinges. Then I'd tighten all three. Of course that was very quick to do since I used a pneumatic air impact wrench for the purpose.
 
   / OK, so now that I have a tiller.... #13  
Bird,

The skid adjustment on the right side of the tiller hits on the gear box hampering lowering the skids to there lowest point. I had to adjust mine independently from one another. I would say they didn't think through this very well. My Rhino tiller didn't have as much adjustment to it, just one hole on the back up or down, I would say they use the same brackets on all their tillers so they are universal in fit. Since the bottom of the gear box is level with the bottom of the frame there aren't too many options here.
 
   / OK, so now that I have a tiller.... #14  
I tilled a yard for a neighbor last night. I set the runners to there lowest point letting the tiller cut approx. 1-2 inches. By doing this the tiller runners would rest on the ground keeping the tiller from bouncing. Once the cut was made I set the three point to where the tiller skids just touched the ground. It worked well and left a nice even seedbed. By taking a small cut I culd leave the tiller down and got to tilling and still make gradual turns and not put a strain on the tiller.
 
   / OK, so now that I have a tiller....
  • Thread Starter
#15  
Thanks, Bird.
The brackets that raise the shoes are a slightly different design on either side and since the tiller is different too, with the gear box on one side, they can't be adjusted the same. The bolts hit different part of the tiller. There are three of them like your Bush Hog.
It's definitely a case of, one size fits all, but doesn't work well on either. /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif

I don't know how you do it, Cliff. This is such a poor design that once my skids are adjusted, they are staying there. Between working two wrenches and working around the gate... If I want to till anything a couple inches deep I'll just go faster. /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif
 
   / OK, so now that I have a tiller.... #16  
"The only way I think I could get the tiller to dig deeper, is to lengthen the toplink so the tiller rocks back a little on the angled part of the shoe"

Actually I've found shorting the top link will make it dig deeper. Kinda like.. teeth down.. tail up.
 
   / OK, so now that I have a tiller....
  • Thread Starter
#17  
Thanks, I guess I was thinking backwards. The front of the shoe is angled, also
 
 

Tractor & Equipment Auctions

UNUSED AGT QK18R EXCAVATOR (A51243)
UNUSED AGT QK18R...
(4) 12-16.5 NHS TIRES & RIMS (A51243)
(4) 12-16.5 NHS...
2003 - 1890/1910 Air Seeder and Air Cart (A51039)
2003 - 1890/1910...
2011 JOHN DEERE 310SJ BACKHOE (A51242)
2011 JOHN DEERE...
LANCER MODEL HL125 - 4' TILLER (A51243)
LANCER MODEL HL125...
2018 DODGE GRAND CARAVAN (A51222)
2018 DODGE GRAND...
 
Top