OK to push trees over with a box blade?

[jake98]

If you can rig the blade so it "trips" when pushing, you'd probably be OK.

You got one of those million dollar ideas there Roy.. wouldn't take much to make one to sort of a spring mount in reverse.. I suppose it would encourage us to go too fast tho.

 

[Perplexed]

You got one of those million dollar ideas there Roy.. wouldn't take much to make one to sort of a spring mount in reverse.. I suppose it would encourage us to go too fast tho.

Yeah, Roy! If you have or had one of those springs, can you post a description and pics, please?

 

[RoyJackson]

Yeah, Roy! If you have or had one of those springs, can you post a description and pics, please?

No, I don't have such an implement. I don't think such an implement is made.
It could be done though. The trip springs would have to be on the back (convex) side of the blade...this is the side you'd be pushing with.

It would probably be cheaper and easier to make a 3PH frame for a (used) standard snow plow. I wouldn't be too surprised if this is available (commercially) but I've never seen one.
I wouldn't want too big a plow though..maybe 6 or 7 feet maximum (for a Category 1 tractor).

 

[mcd176]

Sorry to see the damage, I hope it all works out and doesnt cost you a whole lot of $$ to fix.

Try to remember guys, SCUTS & CUTS are NOT built the same as an ag tractor or industrial dozer or hoe, use them within the scope of their design and they will last forever.

 

[boggen]

re looking at image, i see no.....
stabilizer arms
draw bar
swinging draw bar
stay straps.

i thought goal of stabilizer arms or stabilizer chains. were to allow force to be transferred back near the tires. vs all weight being placed on the PTO casing. so if you did hit something. the implement would not crack lifting arms but rather transfer the force.

the other stuff, really not needed. but stabilizer arms?

================
on another note as mcd176 noted. SCUTs and CUTs are they really made for abuse? smaller and smaller frame sizes compared to older tractors of same HP. even newer tractors of same HP but difference in weight class. weight has to come from some were, i would assume from the frame and thickness and strength of the metal parts of the tractor.

but are SCUTs and CUTs following cars and trucks? meaning cars/trucks use to be metal, now cheap easy to break and crack plastic. is the reduce in frame size and strength there of starting to show? or is it that so many tractors are out there. things eventually happen. and what folks see, is just a very small percentage?

===============

i would say i am abusive to tractors, and run them to there very limit in both weight and HP and traction at times. i suppose eventually i will end up bending something or cracking something sooner or later. (hopefully later) but i doubt it will stop me from repeating similar things.

==============
*rubs chin* rotatory cutters, can get some good old sway in them, box blades rippers can put a pretty good crank / twist on the lifting arms if the outside ripper hit a good rock or root. rear blades one can easily hit a side walk or other concrete structure or what not, and put a lot of extra forces on the 3 pt lift arms.

the lift arms are just simple flat metal with perhaps a couple bends in them. they are not Square tubing, I beams, H beams, etc... and there can be some "sway" in the arms. allowing the arms to give a much better yank at the PTO casing.

majority of tractors with 3pt hitch, with the bigger frame (not riding lawn mower frames) i tend to see a pin or hole or spot up near axle just beside the inside of the rear wheels. so the stabilizer arms can be placed on. so when you do hit something and causes side forces on the implement. the weight is transferred to the PTO casing but also to the rear axle casings (final drive hosing).

 

[Timber]

I don't push trees over because the branches in the tops of the tree tend to rain down on you from above. I tend to cut the tree high and then use the loader to help push it over. I say this all the time, get off the tractor and pick up a Spade & Mattock.

 

[sandman2234]

I don't push trees over because the branches in the tops of the tree tend to rain down on you from above. I tend to cut the tree high and then use the loader to help push it over. I say this all the time, get off the tractor and pick up a Spade & Mattock.

I thought it was +Mattock and Spade" in the classic... not that it matters, but figured it might jog a few more memory cells as to why you capitolized them.
David from jax

 

[Chuck52]

The back blade feathers or smooths the material as you pull forward. The front blade tends to cut. As you now know, three point hitches are meant for pulling only. I am not aware of any three point implement that is designed to be used with the tractor in reverse.

Rear scoop. Can be used going forward, but usually used in reverse.

Chuck

 

[beppington]

Rear scoop. Can be used going forward, but usually used in reverse.

Chuck

At your own risk!

 

[DavesTractor]

Anybody care to see pics?

Why do box blades have a blade on the back?

Yes on pics, of course. The rear blade is used when scraping forward to get a nice final finish. If you lengthen your toplink and drag just the rear blade, lifting the front blade up a 1/2" or so, you get very little cutting action and a nice finish.

It's always best when the arms bend, because they are so much cheaper than a differential housing or axle housing. Sorry to hear about your carnage.