Old Case 580CK for farm backhoe

HuskerInVA · Mar 14, 2011

I'm slowly working my way through the fluids/filters. After cleaning out air cleaner and changing fuel filters -- idle is much smoother. The transmission/differential case is next and looks pretty straight forward.

Now my ignorance showing...

Going through the copy of the owners manual there three things listed: torque tube drain, torque converter housing drain, and torque converter drain. Under the capacities it lists torque tube and hydraulic reservoir 16 quarts. Do these three drains all drain the single housing?

Manual also shows a hydraulic filter that installs in the hydraulic housing. Is that filter the same part number as the hydraulic filter for the loader/backhoe that goes in the filter canister just to the left of the loader controls?

DJ54 · Mar 14, 2011

The filters are different.

If you use the Case site, and figure out what filters you have, you can buy Wix filters through Fleet Filter, for about half what NAPA charges.

http://www.fleetfilter.com/

I figured up the complete filter change on my 480C through NAPA, and it came to right at $145.00+ tax. Got them through Fleet Filter, plus an extra air filter, shipped to my door, for like $84.00.

They are in Texas, and normally about a week here to Ohio...

Juskatla · Apr 1, 2011

Sorry that this reply is late, I've been away. If you haven't already figured this out, you should look into a crowsfoot wrench of the correct size for those hoses. I think I disconnected the cylinder end first and used a long extension to get at these. I also have a couple of the larger Case crowsfoot wrenches designed for this purpose. They came in 1", 1 1/16, 1 1/8 and 1 1/4. Not sure if they are still available but they make the job easier. Part numbers are listed in the parts book on page 245 if you have access to one.

Jess

Juskatla · Apr 2, 2011

Another word of advice. When changing hoses and fittings with ORB ends, change the o ring every time and save yourself doing it again soon. Don't ask me how I come to know this... My hydraulics guy made me up a small kit of all the commonly used sizes on my machine. The ones at the backhoe valve body caused me some problems and I eventually changed all of them.
Hope you got her running well and working good. A little practice will help and you'll be a pro in no time. Keep us posted on how you made out.

Jess

HuskerInVA · Apr 7, 2011

Thanks for the advise. All hoses look good now, but have some bad seals on the stabilizer and swing cylinders leaking pretty badly. My wife asked what the dark lines were I was leaving on the gravel driveway. I told her I was slowly paving the driveway and in 20 years we'd have blacktop.

Next project will be to pull the cylinders and drop off at the hydraulic shop. I thought about fixing myself, but the spring projects are piling up and I'll swap a some money for time on this project.

I had a leak from one of the power steering cylinders. I added Lucas Hydraulic Booster & Stop Leak and that one is fixed (or at least gone for now).

Juskatla said:
Another word of advice. When changing hoses and fittings with ORB ends, change the o ring every time and save yourself doing it again soon. Don't ask me how I come to know this... My hydraulics guy made me up a small kit of all the commonly used sizes on my machine. The ones at the backhoe valve body caused me some problems and I eventually changed all of them.
Hope you got her running well and working good. A little practice will help and you'll be a pro in no time. Keep us posted on how you made out.

Jess

580CK · Apr 22, 2011

We purchased a 1970 CASE 580CK last year, and have had many similar experiences as HuskerInVA

The worst problem right now is that brakes barely work, which means slow going with a lot of caution. I've even used the front bucket to help stop "Flintstones style," but fortunately always from a very low speed (walking speed @ less than 3 mph).

All help and advice greatly appreciated. THANKS!

KBL3830 · Apr 22, 2011

Husker, make sure to get an estimate before dropping off a bunch of cylinders at a dealer. You might end up paying more for the cylinder repacking than you did for the whole machine. The parts for the repack cost around $30, I had one dealer charge over $300 for one cylinder. You need a big torque wrench and a Case cylinder spanner wrench, about $70. The torque specs are in the service manual, let me know if you need them and I'll send them to you.
580CK
The brakes on these machines are a common problem. I usually drop the backhoe when in panic mode. The problem is that the seal between the case and the brake assembly starts to leak so tranny fluid gets in there and lubricates everything quite nicely. The brakes themselves aren't hard to fix, parts aren't too bad, the only hard part is getting the housing off in spite of the loader frame. The seals are another matter, I haven't replaced them yet but am about to tackle it. I'll keep you posted.

DJ54 · Apr 24, 2011

I just went through the brakes on my 480C this winter. I had 1 bad master cylinder, 2 bad wheel cylinders, "iffy' brake lines, brake bands were bad, and some broken springs on the brake unit, itself. The seals, and brake assembly were still pretty good shape. Just needed some serious cleanup,and polishing.

I got all aftermarket parts though Joseph Industries.Remanufactured Transmissions, Torque Converters, Engines - Joseph Industries

All parts were, as I recall, under $250.00. You have to call for prices, and to order, but they flat beat everyone else on price, so it's worth the call..!! Bill Pingley is the fellow you will talk to, and a great guy to deal with.

I bought a brake flaring tool through Eastwood, and made my own lines. Professional Brake Tubing Flaring Tool - Brake Flaring Tool - Brake Tube Flaring

I got it on ebay, through Eastwoods ebay store, for $50.00 less.

Being Case wanted $75.00 per section of line, (there are 4), I felt justified to buy it, and still have the tool, and surplus line, for less money. I bought the alloy line, and line nuts through Advance auto parts.

One of the rubber flex lines was bad too, and lucked out on ebay, and got a new, original Case/IH in package one, for about half, including shipping.

I blocked under the stabilizer bracket, and pulled the right rear wheel, fender, and floorboard. Pretty well let's you into everything from the top, and sure beats laying on your back.

DJ54 · Apr 24, 2011

"The seals are another matter, I haven't replaced them yet but am about to tackle it. I'll keep you posted."

KBL,
If you can cross your seal number through NAPA online, to get the CR number, here is where I got my seals for my 310B last year.
JBR 17 LLC

They were half of what NAPA, or Motion Industries wants for them. Less then $8.00 ea. through JBR, versus around $15.00 ea. at the others. It doesn't hurt too bad to order an extra, just in case of an oops.. ( Glad I did..!!)

I did a little research online, before tearing into mine. Everyone suggests repairing one side at a time. It helps hold the bull pinion shaft in alignment better.

Also, when slipping the new seal in the housing, over the splined bull pinion shaft, the manual calls for a special tool to protect seal damage. I found that answer on another forum.

Clean the shaft well, ( I used brake cleaner) and wipe dry. Wrap the shaft with electrical tape, starting from the inside, and work your way out. It leaves the ridges of overlap to the inside to jump over. Leave a little tab on the end, to get ahold of, to remove. There is enough room, to start on the smooth area, beyond the splines, where the seal rides. Coat the tape with oil. ( I used 90 wt.) Then slip the housing on, and bolt.

Pull the tape off carefully, so as to not invert the seal lip, and your ready to assemble the rest of the brake mechanism.

It worked slick for me, although the seals were leaking again, within 2 months of almost daily use. Guess that's just common. If I still had it, and to do over again, I would consider finding a speedy sleeve to put on that section of the bull pinion shaft.

Being my 480 is only showing 2115 hrs., and has not possibly reached the wear point to leak, or they went to closer specs. on the shaft/seal, I will put a speedy sleeve on, if it ever does start to leak.

Sorry to be so long winded, but hope this helps..!!

580CK · Apr 25, 2011

Thanks for all the help and advice. I'll update this thread when I tackle the brakes.

I also have some bad hoses on the 580CK. It seems straightforward, and all the hoses on the front were 1/2" ID, with a mix of 5/8" and 3/4" ID on the hoe. Unfortunately, the service manual I have doesn't seem to show what the hose sizes are. The machine did work as it was... the front loader seemed quick enough.

The loader raise/lower cylinder hoses on there are 1/2"ID but have JIC10 to SAE10 ends. So I wonder if those 4 hoses should really be 5/8" ID instead of 1/2"