Old Engines and New Oil

[rScotty]

It is full-flow and was hanging off the side of the engine in a weird way, but if kept there, that would make it be right in my way. I was going to fabricate a mount for it, but then thought, "why not just get rid of it?"

OK, so it sounds like you do need the full flow filter. But there's no need for it to be in any particular location. It could be just about anywhere and connected with flex lines.

BTW, are we talking 28 quarts or 28 pints of oil? I see both figures.
rScotty

 

[SimS]

^X2 OP mentioned 28 quarts originally, but this last manual quote mentions 28 PINTS. A different strategy may be needed.

 

[DEWFPO]

If you decide you want or need dual filters you could use a dual filter remote mount setup to give you that filtering capacity and you could mount the dual setup almost anywhere you want. Also, 7 gallons vs 28 gallons....... that may help you decide.

DEWFPO

 

[BrokenTrack]

OK, so it sounds like you do need the full flow filter. But there's no need for it to be in any particular location. It could be just about anywhere and connected with flex lines.

BTW, are we talking 28 quarts or 28 pints of oil? I see both figures.
rScotty

I guess it is only 28 pints. I knew they had increased the capacity to 28, but oil is typically stated in QUARTS not pints, but when I copied the manual, I noted it said PINTS. I was surprised, because that is only 3.5 gallons.

 

[90cummins]

In most situations highly efficient oil filtration is more beneficial than premium synthetic oil.
The exception would be extreme heat or cold ambient conditions.
Bypass filtration is key to extended oil changes and engine life.
Many people (myself included) would install a bypass filter on all my diesels if it was easy.
Eliminating a bypass filter from an engine designed for hundreds or thousands of hours between oil/filter changes would in my opinion be a shame.
Keep the filter in place. It does not need to be replaced every time the full flow filter is changed.
I installed a bypass filter on my dodge diesel years ago and would monitor the condition of the filter by the temperature of the filter body. As the filter becomes restricted the body cools down.
Also you need to realize that as a filter becomes loaded with contaminates the flow decreases but the ability of the filter to capture smaller and smaller particles increases.
As was mentioned earlier in the post relocate the filter if you must but don’t eliminate it.
90cummins

 

[BleedingOrange]

I would be concerned that somehow/someway that valve could accidentally open, and drain the oil pan dry.
I use a different and easier method.
A 12V dipstick oil extractor/pump (cheap on E-Bay).

No need to get under the car, and can pump directly into an empty jug.
Oil filter is top mounted canister (MB E350), so no need to get under the car for that either.
Could probably do the oil change in a long sleeve white shirt.

That system works, to get the majority of the old oil out, but I,ve always wondered how much stuff is left on the bottom of the oil pan, and will get mixed in with the new oil once it has been added. If possible, even thou it is messy, and more of a pain, I always prefer to drain the warmed up oil thru the factory drain hole, hoping to get more of the crud out with each oil and filter change.

 

[Texasmark]

I have an old engine, and to get long service life (30,000 hours) the company had to upgrade the engine. So they increased oil capacity to 28 quarts, and added a secondary oil filter. That is okay, but the secondary filter is a real pain for me, so I was thinking about eliminating it.

Obviously the oil pan is still 28 quarts, but I was thinking:

Single Filter Oil Filtration with Full-Synthetic Oil would be just as good for engine longevity, as Two-Filter Oil Filtration with the oil they had in 1979 wouldn't it?

In other words, using better oil would be just as good as filtering less-than-stellar oil twice.

I could change the oil more often, but good gracious, that is 28 quarts! That would get expensive!

The primary filter is probably 20 microns and is full flow volume. The secondary is probably a 10% of full flow volume and is 5 microns.....lower flow due to the resistance of the 5 micron element. OTR trucks have the same setup. That's how/one way they get half a million miles out of an engine before an inframe.

 

[tmeric7]

The fundamental question is... Can better quality oil compensate for reduced filtration? I would say no. The oil and the filter do not have the same job. More frequent oil changes would be a better strategy than using better oil.

 

[crashz]

Application means a lot here. A reefer is run for long hours, every or nearly every night. Weather could be wild, & conditions dirty. I would think in the genset, conditions are much more favorable, with low dust and milder temps. And what do you expect to accumulate for hours each year? I remember reading that this is for more than just emergency power. Basically I think you need to look at the number of hours it runs each year. 100-200, forget the second filter and do annual oil changes. 1000 hrs - keep the secondary filter.

Modern oil is much better than old stuff, but like said above, its not a replacement for good filtration. How are the seals and gaskets in this engine? Great air filtration and proper breathers will help too.

 

[BrokenTrack]

Application means a lot here. A reefer is run for long hours, every or nearly every night. Weather could be wild, & conditions dirty. I would think in the genset, conditions are much more favorable, with low dust and milder temps. And what do you expect to accumulate for hours each year? I remember reading that this is for more than just emergency power. Basically I think you need to look at the number of hours it runs each year. 100-200, forget the second filter and do annual oil changes. 1000 hrs - keep the secondary filter.

Modern oil is much better than old stuff, but like said above, its not a replacement for good filtration. How are the seals and gaskets in this engine? Great air filtration and proper breathers will help too.

Those are some good questions. I am not sure on the hours the engine would be subjected too. I had originally intended for it for cogeneration, but to be honest with you, using wood pellets to heat our home is so cheap, it would really be hard to beat them. Had we used propane this year, we would have been around $2800, but with wood pellets, we would have paid about $1000. (I trade firewood in exchange for wood pellets).

The seals are all good on the engine though. It was rebuilt with all new seals and gaskets except for the fuel injection pump. I am going to check that first to see if it is leaking, and then go from there. If I need to reseal it, I will, but i want to wait first. This engine has very few hours on it...2607 hours.