Old Heatilator Fireplace Retrofit

[Egon]

So in my case where the crawlspace air comes into the sides of the existing fire box, you would fabricate a duct that routes the crawlspace air beside the new insert up to near the insert's combustion inlet?[/QUOTE]

Not sure what you mean by crawl space but my assumption is outside air with no connection to the Masonary area.
Just ductwork to the insert combustion air inlets.
Again no idea of how Masonary is laid out but ductwork from the insert hot air outlet to the Masonary inlet. I'm assuming the Masonary has an outlet to the room. An extra fan could be added.

Duct work should not be attached to the insert. The insert must also have approved installation area. Ie a former wood burning open fireplace type. There are fireplace inserts that are insulated and installed in wooden/drywall framed areas faced with brick. These probaly will not meet any clearance codes.

Regency small fireplace insert:
Combustion air in @ front bottom, hot air out @ top of insert. The circulating fan is at the bottom.

 

[TomSeller]

Not sure what you mean by crawl space but my assumption is outside air with no connection to the Masonary area.
Just ductwork to the insert combustion air inlets.
Again no idea of how Masonary is laid out but ductwork from the insert hot air outlet to the Masonary inlet. I'm assuming the Masonary has an outlet to the room. An extra fan could be added.

Each side of the existing firebox has a rectangular opening (picture). Inside the masonry there is a flex tube imbedded and routed into the vented crawlspace. So my thought, if enough space exists, adapt to these for combustion air rather than draw cold air across the room.

 

[RNeumann]

If the unit takes combustion air from the side that would work. As the video shows not all retrofit units have a separate intake for combustion air. It would be an abnormal situation, in a retrofit, to have a provision for combustion air- remember most fireplaces don't have an outside combustion air provision. So a retrofit unit that required outside combustion air from a side or rear 4" duct would be limiting. New construction style units (sometimes called zero clearance) do typically take combustion air from a 4" duct on the side or back.

To be clear. A retrofit style insert is a specific product offered by manufactures. So when you say retrofit I'm assuming that is what you are talking about.

 

[Egon]

Ahh -- I'm slow. You have a metal built in heatilator wood burning fireplace. You want to put a fireplace insert into the existing firebox. The Masonary is just surface cladding on the wall?

Please disregard my previous statements as your local code/insurance would dictate the installation conditions.

 

[RNeumann]

I think you bring up a good point. OP may not end up with a retrofit style and, if that is the case, the combustion air will come into play.

Problem with fireplaces is every manufacture does different things and has different requirements. It's a matter of measuring and then hunting for a unit that will fit and meet manufacture requirements. Or making a phone call and paying retail plus installation from a contractor/installer/retailer.

 

[TomSeller]

Ahh -- I'm slow. You have a metal built in heatilator wood burning fireplace. You want to put a fireplace insert into the existing firebox. The Masonary is just surface cladding on the wall?

Please disregard my previous statements as your local code/insurance would dictate the installation conditions.

The existing firebox could come out, it wouldn't serve a purpose once the insert is in place. That decision may be driven by the dimensions and what would need to be done to get a modern vent tube up the chimney through what is now the old style damper. The fireplace is free standing in the room, with a full concrete base in the crawlspace and masonry all the way through the attic and through the roof.

 

[Egon]

Okay. Then some of my previous remarks can stand.

I would suggest the existing damper be removed. There are continuous flexible stainless steel chimney inserts.

 

[patchnball]

that heatilator is quite big. Taking it out without disturbing the brick face will prove challenging. The outlet pipes are behind the soldier corse bricks above the doors. I guess anything can be done with a cutting torch.

 

[TomSeller]

Okay. Then some of my previous remarks can stand.

I would suggest the existing damper be removed. There are continuous flexible stainless steel chimney inserts.

How are those flexible stainless chimney inserts to clean? Seems the corrugation would be troublesome as far as getting it clean. Seems smooth would be better.

 

[Egon]

Haven't had any problems with mine. Hot fires and creosote chemical seems to be working.