Oliver 50 baler

   / Oliver 50 baler
  • Thread Starter
#11  
Ok, The Baler Turned Out to be a NH 269 with a 53-A thrower , The Crimper is a NH 402 and the Sickle bar Mower is a 7' Oliver PTO driven.Mower needs a new pitman arm made and a deflector off the cutting bar.
Farm stuff 028.JPGFarm stuff 030.JPGFarm stuff 025.JPG -B 003.JPG
 
   / Oliver 50 baler #12  
Really nice looking baler. The baler the super sweep pick up which is nice. Having a kicker/thrower is way overkill for a 2.5 acres. Crimper looks nice too. Certainly glad to see the sickle mower is PTO driven instead of ground drive although I am not sure how it mounts to the tractor. Often times the original user's manuals showed how to mount those type sickles to all different brands of tractors of the time period. Also looks like you will be making a separate pass over the field to crimp as I do not see an auxiliary PTO shaft on that oliver sickle mower to pull the crimper behind that mower at same time.
 
   / Oliver 50 baler
  • Thread Starter
#13  
The thrower will be coming off and will be for sale , I got all the PTO shafts and the bale pans with purchase. I was kinda disappointed that the mower didn't have the rear PTO shaft but my Buddy has one on his old mower we could put on it , but as you say for 2.5 acres it isn't a big deal. I am glad it's PTO driven, Its a little old and needs a new pitman arm and a deflector on the end of the sickle bar.The Mower mounts with 2 pins on either side of the main draw bar pin. I will have to center the PTO shaft and make to plates to go on the mower, There are to plates on it now but they have small mounting holes. Shouldn't be to big of a problem.
 
   / Oliver 50 baler
  • Thread Starter
#14  
I have the manuals for the baler , thrower and crimper . Also have found the manual on evilbay for the Mower . Now to find a rake and get this stuff greased up and Running!
 
   / Oliver 50 baler #15  
Be sure to get some spare pitman arms as you will be breaking a few. I think Tractor Supply is a source.Also be sure the bearings in the head are good and hold downs on the bar properly adjusted. Later you will want to trade up to a balanced head sickle mower (no pitman arm - belt driven) or small drum mower.

The other critical issue on the sickle mower is sharp knives (you can get bolt on replacements over the rivets) and the guard to knife clearance is correct. A company called Webs Sickle Service is on line and carries a lot of parts for various mowers

Do you have anyone to help set up the baler? The knotters probably need adjustment and go over the rails for wear and adjustment. Also I suggest changing out any gear box fluid and making sure all the grease zerks work.

You have your work cut out for you, but once the first bale comes off the baler you will be grinning from ear to ear
 
   / Oliver 50 baler
  • Thread Starter
#16  
I was thinking of making the pitman arm my self but I need to go to tsc and get a seat cover for my M and will look and see if they have them. I have a good friend that will help me get the baler up to snuff. I'm Going to pick up some new twine ,change gearbox oil and regrease everything .It doe's look like they greased it when put away last fall.:thumbsup:
 
   / Oliver 50 baler #17  
I have an Oliver baler, but it is a little newer (but not much) than the one you pictured. Mine feeds the hay into the chamber with something like a 4 bar rake and fingers pushing it the last foot.

Mine works great, but each year it takes about 100 bales run through it to get everything shined up and smooth again. Once that much hay is through the machine I rarely ever have a bale not tied.

The biggest issue I have is with a light windrow, the hay does feed to the "far side" of the chamber (away from the pickup) and the string on that side is then a little loose. As long as I keep the windrows size right or speed up through the field the bales are a good as any.

The knotters are largely the same as most other balers and not an issue to get parts. I think the AGCO dealer near me was able to get the exact billhook for my knotter I needed off his shelf. Parts like sprockets, chains, etc. are available at TSC or NAPA. If a larger part were to break on most any of these older balers, I'd guess most of us would be looking for another baler.
 
   / Oliver 50 baler
  • Thread Starter
#18  
A Little update , I have also got a #37 John Deere sickle bar mower. It along with My Oliver 22-B sickle bar mower needed a pitman stick . Having some nice 1x1 1/8 " native oak I made my sticks for both Mowers and they work great ! . I have tested both mowers and the Oliver is cutting fantastic and the John Deere 37 needs about 4 rock guards a hold down and 7 sickle sections replaced. the crimper runs and will be tested this week if the rain holds off. I fired up the baler yesterday and it took running about 10 bales thru it before we got it to start tying right. (some operator error here) and things just needing to be shined up , but I got it tying everybale and got the lenght of the bales set so I'm ready to bale weather permitting next week, Hope to cut tomorrow but we had 2" of rain this morning and maybe more tonite . Time will tell.
 

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