On hydraulic fluid

[Eddie]

BTW, what's the correct front/rear tire pressure? I just won on ebay an operation, and a maintenance manual so I won't be pestering you guys much longer with my silly questions....or maybe I will

gcp

Maybe you saw this about front/rear tire pressure which was another question within that post. Sometimes I see things like that and they register as something else. I had seen pictures of his tractor and knew it was a 2wd so I had to believe it was a rear wheel he was talking about.

 

[gcp]

Sorry for the delay guys but work had me swamped today. I obviously wasn't specific enough in my original post, it is the right rear wheel that's leaking. If it's not the hydraulic fluid leaking then it should be the wheel seal bearing grease right? In any case since my manuals are not here yet, how easy a task is it to replace the wheel seal?

Eddie, do you know of a 4 foot tiller that needs to be sold locally? Looks like it might be a good time this weekend to disk/till/plant some deer food at the property

gcp

 

[Eddie]

Sorry for the delay guys but work had me swamped today. I obviously wasn't specific enough in my original post, it is the right rear wheel that's leaking. If it's not the hydraulic fluid leaking then it should be the wheel seal bearing grease right? In any case since my manuals are not here yet, how easy a task is it to replace the wheel seal?

Eddie, do you know of a 4 foot tiller that needs to be sold locally? Looks like it might be a good time this weekend to disk/till/plant some deer food at the property

gcp

I replaced the rear wheel seals in my 2020. It was not an easy task, but got it done, and it is hydraulic fluid that leaks when the wheel seals go bad. Seems to me I heard it's easier on a 2000 than 2020.

Don't know of a tiller, might try Fredricks. My neighbor bought one from them.

 

[gcp]

Guys, I finally had the time last weekend to replace the rear seal and found it to be a very-very easy remove/install process on my YM 2000. Upon completion I put the tractor to the test and the rear wheel is now leak free. And since it was warm last weekend finally my new temperature gauge registered above minimal temps, I believe I'm fortunate that my YM runs so cool.

So, it appears that all the repairs I've performed, plus greasing all available grease fittings, have proven problem free so my last step will be to replace the hydraulic fluid sometime in the near future...and of course paint my YM so as to give it a fresh look in life. Any suggestions as what's the most practical way of painting the tractor at home?

Thanks,
gcp

 

[mark777]

Guys...and of course paint my YM so as to give it a fresh look in life. Any suggestions as what's the most practical way of painting the tractor at home?....gcp

There are a few things to consider.

Do you have a compressor, detached garage or out building with power, paint gun and the type of materials for the job?? And this is very important...do you have the minimum safety requirements (good respirator) gloves, fire extinguisher and some type of exhaust fan? Have you painted before?

I will not discourage anyone from doing this at home...and I've seen some beautiful paint work come out of the shabbiest lean to, redneck makeshift paint booths LOL.

Power-wash everything, everywhere before you begin.

Mostly, for the best results it's about preparation. Being comfortable, taking your time and working clean are essential for experiencing the pride of a job well done. Other few things that truly compliment your work is careful masking OR removing as much as possible and paint them separately and in stages.

Absolutely the easiest part of painting anything is putting the paint in the gun and shooting it. Every single step up to that point is what is time consuming, necessary and provides the foundation for the simple top coat to reflect the many painstaking hours underneath.

It is a very rewarding experience...and NOT as difficult as many may think.

Mark

 

[Jagmandave]

OK, here's the other side of the coin..........everything Mark writes is correct, but I had absolutely no place to do any of that, so I took all the sheet metal off mine and took it to a local auto body shop - in the winter. I told them to use it as a filler job when they weren't busy. It only took them about 3 weeks and they sandblasted, prepped and finish coated and polished everything for $300. I feel like I got a real professionally done job and for the cost, I thought it was a bargain, not to mention not having to do all the grunt and dirty work. Your choice, but something to consider.....BTW, I painted my sheetmetal Ford Ranger Red, it's a little darker and less orange than the original, but I think it looks great.

 

[runningbird]

I'd like to paint my new fx28 but I don't want to loose all the original stickers. this thing has a million of them. any good ideas?

 

[normde2001]

I'd like to paint my new fx28 but I don't want to loose all the original stickers. this thing has a million of them. any good ideas?

Unless you read Japanese, why not just order new English stickers?

 

[California]

I'd like to paint my elderly Yanmar. (Actually it was built a couple of years after the last YM2000 Japanese equivalent; it just looks worse than most 2000's.)

Like Jagmandave did, it wouldn't be too much trouble to take the sheet metal in and have that part done professionally.

But every time I look at how much work it would take to prep the loader (and its subframe) for painting, I say not now - maybe someday.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...ght-budget-even-possible-595626-dscn5078r.jpg

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...actorin-did-you-625565-img_3089r2-haullog.jpg

 

[Jagmandave]

California, I know what you mean. right after I posted a couple of pics of the fresh paint on my Yanny, several people noted how badly the front end loader looked in comparison, although it's not quite as bad as yours..........