Treemonkey1000
Veteran Member
Why not just go to the wrecking yard and pick one up. Any similar make of truck and a few years up and down from yours should work.
? On voltage drop 12-6?
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AndyMA
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FYI the reason the light dimmer didn't work is, it is a triac that is designed for AC only operations. A diac would work though.
quote]
Curious about how you would get a diac to work in this application? As I recall a diac is a bidirectional breakover diode that typically breaks over at about 30 volts unless I don't remember my control days properly.
Andy
capi75rs
Silver Member
FYI the reason the light dimmer didn't work is, it is a triac that is designed for AC only operations. A diac would work though.
quote]
Curious about how you would get a diac to work in this application? As I recall a diac is a bidirectional breakover diode that typically breaks over at about 30 volts unless I don't remember my control days properly.
Andy
Andy nice catch. My mind running from AC to DC didn't think quick enough. I do stand correctedDiac in DC applications just acts like a Shockley diode, won't do him much good. Thanks for the correction.
mbohuntr
Platinum Member
If the wattages line up,I still like the idea of the light, you can pick up a DC trap light at 55 watts for about 12 bucks.
Bedlam
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So the 120 volt Light dimmer (ac) could be disected and possibley something removed to make it work?
SnowRidge
Elite Member
No. He needs a resistor of the proper value capable of safely dissipating the heat that will be generated. Nothing inside a 120V light dimmer will do that.
Bedlam
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Oh ok thanks...
Wayne County Hose
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Another vote for the junkyard.
OP
chopped
Veteran Member
Thanks all for the input. I agree the easiest would probably be the junk yard treasure but I'm aways from a yard, and I hate to get it and have it burn back out dues to another problem.
Ultimately I went with Bota Sam's idea, simply because i had an old Plymouth junk car 'in stock'.
The ballast resister on that car has four terminals, and I never knew there was a difference in the two sides . But I attached to a terminal on one end and the opposing end,a nd away it went. This still left two more terminals which I thought would be of the same resistance. but when hooked up they were less, the fan ran allot slower.At any rate I was able to patch this in and now have the two speeds.
So one problem solved but now I wonder on the two different Resistances on the dual four terminal ballast block . Could this have hindered the car (junker) back 25 years ago? Had i not hooked it up correct.?
Maybe any Plymouth guys can remember. It would be good to know lol
Oh just thought perhaps half of this is bad thus the difference in resitance on the block?
Ultimately I went with Bota Sam's idea, simply because i had an old Plymouth junk car 'in stock'.
The ballast resister on that car has four terminals, and I never knew there was a difference in the two sides . But I attached to a terminal on one end and the opposing end,a nd away it went. This still left two more terminals which I thought would be of the same resistance. but when hooked up they were less, the fan ran allot slower.At any rate I was able to patch this in and now have the two speeds.
So one problem solved but now I wonder on the two different Resistances on the dual four terminal ballast block . Could this have hindered the car (junker) back 25 years ago? Had i not hooked it up correct.?
Maybe any Plymouth guys can remember. It would be good to know lol
Oh just thought perhaps half of this is bad thus the difference in resitance on the block?
mbohuntr
Platinum Member
I think you have a multi-position resistor. If you wish to change the voltage between the resistors, you vary the resistance. Hence you have the connections for high, med and low speeds. My guess anyway.
