One tooth ripper

[Midniteoyl]

Only one tooth rippers on the Alaska Gold Rush dozers, but then they are breaking up some really hard ground

 

[EuroYanmar]

Guys,

Now I understand.
It's a question of power.
One tooth ripper is OK for compact tractors.
I have noticed too what Murphy1244 said : good for running wire.
Maybe I can use this kind of ripper to run my drip watering system polyethylen pipes (32 mm in diameter).

I appreciate your help.

Phil

 

[Midniteoyl]

YA.. sorry about that. I was confused on the question

A one tooth ripper would be good for trenching in water and power lines.. go for it.

 

[EuroYanmar]

YA.. sorry about that. I was confused on the question


A one tooth ripper would be good for trenching in water and power lines.. go for it.

Don't worry Midniteoyl, i appreciate any input but my english is bad so it was difficult for me to find the right word for this "subsoiler"!

Oh that's strange ! I thought Midnight oil was a Texas speciality not an Indiana one
Have you got oil up there in Starke county ?
Ah I understand, it's midnight owl
We have many in summer around here

Phil

 

[BukitCase]

32mm is pretty big to bury with a small tractor, but it might work for drip if you're not going too deep - here's an idea of what you'd want, but it's WAY overpriced to my mind - if you or a friend can weld, you could probably make something for 100-200 euros total

Implements Direct: Ripper Sub-soiler with pipe laying attachment

Notice that the ripper tooth is angled so it will pull the ripper down into the ground? This could be a problem for laying pipe. One method I've seen to control this problem consists of adding a pair of adjustable "sled runners" to the side of the ripper, so that when the runners contact the ground they stop the ripper from going deeper, while that angled tooth keeps the ripper at depth.

Also notice on that page, it recommends 25-40 horsepower, and will do up to 40mm pipe. If you look at the pictures, you'll see that the top of the tube where the pipe feeds in has a FLARE? That part might be a bit tricky to fabricate without special tools, but the rest of that pipe could be replaced with a "long radius electrical conduit sweep" fitting and some welding, added to a simple "subsoiler".

Since I have no idea what your capabilities are, please just ignore anything that's beyond your capabilities or ask more questions - either is fine... Steve

 

[Midniteoyl]

Don't worry Midniteoyl, i appreciate any input but my english is bad so it was difficult for me to find the right word for this "subsoiler"!

Oh that's strange ! I thought Midnight oil was a Texas speciality not an Indiana one
Have you got oil up there in Starke county ?
Ah I understand, it's midnight owl
We have many in summer around here

Phil

It has several meanings..

 

[sixdogs]

From an agricultural practice, the depth to subsoil has changed over the last few years. Guys used to rip down 20" or more but found it was inverting the soil layers and actually doing damage. The thinking now is to just rip below the hardpan layer and that's means a depth of about 10" to 12" around here in our clay.

I use a single shank ripper and the rule of thumb is that it tales 25 35 HP per shank.

 

[EuroYanmar]

32mm is pretty big to bury with a small tractor, but it might work for drip if you're not going too deep - here's an idea of what you'd want, but it's WAY overpriced to my mind - if you or a friend can weld, you could probably make something for 100-200 euros total

Implements Direct: Ripper Sub-soiler with pipe laying attachment

Notice that the ripper tooth is angled so it will pull the ripper down into the ground? This could be a problem for laying pipe. One method I've seen to control this problem consists of adding a pair of adjustable "sled runners" to the side of the ripper, so that when the runners contact the ground they stop the ripper from going deeper, while that angled tooth keeps the ripper at depth.

Also notice on that page, it recommends 25-40 horsepower, and will do up to 40mm pipe. If you look at the pictures, you'll see that the top of the tube where the pipe feeds in has a FLARE? That part might be a bit tricky to fabricate without special tools, but the rest of that pipe could be replaced with a "long radius electrical conduit sweep" fitting and some welding, added to a simple "subsoiler".

Since I have no idea what your capabilities are, please just ignore anything that's beyond your capabilities or ask more questions - either is fine... Steve

Steve, you are a great guy !

I have been looking several hours on the web for such an implement with no result.
This one is simple and seems effective but.......New Zealand made !
Very few chance to find it in EC....
But as you said maybe I can try to weld such a device myself as the concept appears simple.
I have only a doubt about the pipe suplying. Here I have 150 meters polyethylen pipe crowns.
Maybe it needs a kind of reel up to support the pipe. The "sled runners" appears very useflul too to avoid the deep diving of the ripper in the soil.
A great implement ,

Thanks a lot for the link and suggestions.

Phil

 

[EuroYanmar]

From an agricultural practice, the depth to subsoil has changed over the last few years. Guys used to rip down 20" or more but found it was inverting the soil layers and actually doing damage. The thinking now is to just rip below the hardpan layer and that's means a depth of about 10" to 12" around here in our clay.

I use a single shank ripper and the rule of thumb is that it tales 25 35 HP per shank.

Yes Sixdogs,

The rule of thumb of 25-35 HP for each shank is very interesting.
On my ground I don't have major problems of hardpan because I use a japanese Yanmar rotary tiller. The tines are crescent shape. One of the huge advantages of japanese rotary tillers is they don't make plow-hardpan. That is why I will not sell my tiller even if I get a brand new italian or german one.

Thanks for your help.

Phil

 

[uphill]

We subsoil the fields about every 3 years. Make a outer circle and then on the 2nd pass let the outer tire press the subsoiled 1st pass back down. Takes forever but allows the rain to soak down rather than run off.