Online source for 1/2 inch steel hard line

[MtnViewRanch]

Is there a reason to not use the flareless bite type fittings? :confused3: I mean, why go to the trouble of flaring?

 

[CalG]

I really like compression fittings! have you got any that will go from 12 mm to 1/2 inch, 90 degree ell? I need three. ;-)

Space is tight under the covers, taping into the power steering priority diverter line that feeds a pair of Aux ports (dual remotes to the TBN crowd) and then on to the TPH lift.

The new three spool momoblock valve will be the loader control via RVC with a third port available. All valve ports are -08ORB for the working lines AND the IN, PB, andTank.

These last three lines the subject of my need for hard lines.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

CalG, here are the fittings that the Hydraulic store has. http://www.hydraulicstore.com/products/connectors/eremeto7000m.html No I do not have any.

 

[Tractor Seabee]

12mm is .47 inch. 1/2" fitting either flare or compression fittings should work OK. In compression type; I prefer "Swadgelock" brand.

I have the 45degree Imperial also. I also have the Imperial double flare tool. We always used double flare where mechanical impact or vibration was involved, copper, steel or SS. Saved a lot of callbacks.
Ron

 

[CalG]

TS

Do you have any hard results or references when using 1/2 inch compression fittings on 12mm tubing. .030 seems a bit sloppy, with the "olive" needing a large amount of deformation, and then the tube getting no support from the B-nut. It seems like a no win combination, but I'm open to the possibility.

If I have troubles with single flare, I'll move on to double flare. They can be difficult to get right in some materials. I do have a double flare set up also, but have limited it's application to automotive brake lines. Questioin, If you put on the double flare at first, how did you know the single flare would have failed in the same service?

Yes, Swage lock are fine fittings, I wish someone else beside myself were footing the hardware costs ;-)

MVR, Thanks for the reference, I'll be ordering "something Monday morning.

Cheers

Cal

 

[Tractor Seabee]

Cal,

No, experience, educated guess. I would try it and see how it fits. We had a lot of problems with single flares breaking right at the shoulder. Making up a single flare thins out the tube even more. The extra metal in the double prevents that thinning. Especially important on inverted flares like brake line. Went to the double flares and that solved the problems. I have never tried a 45 degree flare with a 37 degree fitting. On industrial instrumentation we used Swadgelock or its equals almost exclusively.

Know what you mean on footing the bill. That is why I make a lot of stuff myself and do my own repairs. All that other stuff is way behind me now. Into management consulting for construction contractors.

Ron

 

[wdchyd]

Cal,

If you are in the So NH area I have plenty in stock (different wall thicknesses)

Bill

 

[CalG]

Bill

Thanks for the offer! My order for tubing came today via UPS (One of the TBN recommended sources) I got 4- 6 foot lengths .063 wall.

I'll be starting in on practice flares and bending tomorrow. It's been over 25 years ......

It's a big task to remove the seat/fender tin work from the tractor with the ROPS and associated electrical crap etc , but when all the hydraulic bits are at hand, I'll do the work and have clear access to make a good job of it. I had it alol off for a repaint when it was first brought home. The OEM paint was coming off in sheets! Must have been a Friday afternoon in winter when "Toni" was doing the spraying. ;-)

 

[bulldogshotgun]

never heard of or seen a double flared JIC. i always use Parkers, collar and nut arrangement when flaring for JIC connections the collar really makes them stiff, and it keeps the nut from rubbing on the already thinned shoulder of the flare.

 

[wdchyd]

Double flare is not practical or needed if you use tubing with enough wall thickness.....if you use chinsy thin-walled tubing then you NEED to use double flare