Only front chains?

[CJONE]

This has probably been mentioned previously but it should be noted when changing tire sizes on a FWA, the change needs to be worked out as a percentage rather than simple addition. For example, adding 2" to rears of, say, 40" diameter results in a 5% change. (2 divided by 40) Adding that same 2" to the fronts of, say, 24" diameter would result in a change of approximately 8%. (2 divided by 24) The result of this scenario would be that the fronts will be "leading" the rears by much more than the design intent. The same result would occur when chaining the fronts and rears assuming that the chains increase the OD by the same amount front and rear. The front wheels would be trying to outrun the rear wheels resulting in more stress on the front drive. Not saying it would or would not be catastrophic over time.

Thank you, Great info! CJ

 

[CJONE]

If I were you I'd buy a pair of rear chains and use them. If after doing so you still see a need for fronts then go for it. You're going to slide sideways even with chains in some situations, unless you get a pair for around $1600 or more, with studs, like my dealer showed me in his catalog. That's for just the rear!!

Just a FYI, I have not slid sideways with the V-Bars and I have a bad driveway. It is off camber and steep. I cannot climb it with the tractor in 2WD with snow on it and cannot plow uphill with out chains on at least the rear. The V-Bars really work well. CJ

 

[CJONE]

Sooo , let me ask this, would a high quality set of rears give my tractor enough grip in the rear as to prevent the front end from sliding sideways.

No, the front will still slide. But from my experience a set of V-bars on the rear will let you run in 2WD and the front chains will not let the front slide unless you take too much weight off with the loader. In 2WD you have less wear and little chance of damage. CJ

 

[Dingo Man]

No, the front will still slide. But from my experience a set of V-bars on the rear will let you run in 2WD and the front chains will not let the front slide unless you take too much weight off with the loader. In 2WD you have less wear and little chance of damage. CJ

Yep, that sounds good. I will probably buy chains for all four. I will at least have them if needed. I will try using only 2WD as much as possible just to be on the safe side but I am still not buying the fact that placing chains on these tractors is going to some how ruin the running gear. Even with chains it seems there is going to be plenty of give and slippage, especially on snow and ice.

 

[CJONE]

Yep, that sounds good. I will probably buy chains for all four. I will at least have them if needed. I will try using only 2WD as much as possible just to be on the safe side but I am still not buying the fact that placing chains on these tractors is going to some how ruin the running gear. Even with chains it seems there is going to be plenty of give and slippage, especially on snow and ice.

IMHO if it is done with a little common sence I don't believe you would hurt anything either. But that is in short supply anymore. I let a friend borrow my 25hp tractor/snowblower, I now have a fan with 3 bent blades and a hole through the side of the housing. I have ran it for 5 years with less damage than him using it twice! Some people can tear up a anvil then blame it on you. Getting blamed is what I try to avoid and err on the safe side when suggesting something to someone and I won't suggested something if I don't have personal experience with it. If you were closer I would let you try my front chains so you could see the difference. Thought about selling them but I know as soon as I do I will need them. CJ

 

[Dingo Man]

IMHO if it is done with a little common sence I don't believe you would hurt anything either. But that is in short supply anymore. I let a friend borrow my 25hp tractor/snowblower, I now have a fan with 3 bent blades and a hole through the side of the housing. I have ran it for 5 years with less damage than him using it twice! Some people can tear up a anvil then blame it on you. Getting blamed is what I try to avoid and err on the safe side when suggesting something to someone and I won't suggested something if I don't have personal experience with it. If you were closer I would let you try my front chains so you could see the difference. Thought about selling them but I know as soon as I do I will need them. CJ

I again agree about the common sense. I have some friends I would never loan anything too because they are hard on equipment. I believe my snow removal around the house with chains will not over work this machine.

My dealer advised me they would suggest either chains on just the rear or chains on all four, never chains on just the front. He stated to just put chains on it and run it, they have hundreds of customers up here using chains and having no problems with it.

 

[Coyote machine]

I've checked all over the place for chains for my tractor and finally found what I am told will work best for my use.
I'm going to get Aquiline mpc chains for just my rear tires for now. They allow for minimum clearance issues for my fenders, and R-4 Titan Heavy Duty Industrial Tractor Lug tires sized at 14.9 x 24
I am coupling that with a HLA brand, lateral float, with crossover valve, 2000 Series 7' all steel plow, made in Canada. I considered a Sno-way plow with vertical float, crossover valve, and plastic moldboard; which is also a good choice for my tractor, but I want as little stress on my loader assembly as possible. Lateral float seems from an engineering standpoint to best accomplish this task. There is another forum on snow equipment use and it has tons of useful information and detailed videos by guys like 4shorts. I learned today from one of his recent videos that to keep from slipping on the front tires he drops his plow on the ground and then raises it slightly to keep the weight on the front tires, INSTEAD of on the loader. Seems like a no brainer, but it makes perfect sense, especially coming from a former heavy equipment operator and experienced snow tractor specific professional user.
Here are links to the chain type I was referring to: Aquiline Tire Chains
And to the HLA Plow: HLA Snow

 

[landedakioti]

These I got today do I put them on tried it on a hill that was a sheet of ice they worked great I never had to put it in 4 wheel drive.

 

[seacap04]

These I got today do I put them on tried it on a hill that was a sheet of ice they worked great I never had to put it in 4 wheel drive.

That's what I have and don't use unless I really need them. The mile and half on the road to my shop will knock you silly. Be careful because you will still slide sideways going across a hill. They are fantasic in mud.

CM, know you will, but would really like to know what you think about the chains after you test them. Them look like my solution. Looks like they address packed snow and ice. Also side slip going across a hill.

 

[CJONE]

I've checked all over the place for chains for my tractor and finally found what I am told will work best for my use.
I'm going to get Aquiline mpc chains for just my rear tires for now. They allow for minimum clearance issues for my fenders, and R-4 Titan Heavy Duty Industrial Tractor Lug tires sized at 14.9 x 24
I am coupling that with a HLA brand, lateral float, with crossover valve, 2000 Series 7' all steel plow, made in Canada. I considered a Sno-way plow with vertical float, crossover valve, and plastic moldboard; which is also a good choice for my tractor, but I want as little stress on my loader assembly as possible. Lateral float seems from an engineering standpoint to best accomplish this task. There is another forum on snow equipment use and it has tons of useful information and detailed videos by guys like 4shorts. I learned today from one of his recent videos that to keep from slipping on the front tires he drops his plow on the ground and then raises it slightly to keep the weight on the front tires, INSTEAD of on the loader. Seems like a no brainer, but it makes perfect sense, especially coming from a former heavy equipment operator and experienced snow tractor specific professional user.
Here are links to the chain type I was referring to: Aquiline Tire Chains
And to the HLA Plow: HLA Snow

Coyote, DO NOT get a Snoway plow with the lexan moldboard. I have broke at least 3 of them and just patched them with steel. The plow is good just a poor idea with the lexan. Included a few pics of my rear chains also. I finially figured out how to do it. [computer handicapped!] CJ

 

[kco]

These I got today do I put them on tried it on a hill that was a sheet of ice they worked great I never had to put it in 4 wheel drive.

View attachment 299054

Those will serve you well landedkioti. As tirechains.com states on their website, the pattern-connecting links are smaller than my DUO's from canadianchains.com(Using quality chain corp chains). AS Seacap says, they are rough on hard surfaces but they won't be as bad as mine. Mine have one more link in the cross chains, larger pattern-connecting links resulting in 7 patterns compared to your 9. Mine also have a large gap at the end.

I intend to improve mine this spring as shown inthis thread:

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachments/268885-duo-chains-planned-modifications.html

I would prefer Aquilines as mentioned by CM or, perhaps even better, the Tryggs shown by Gordon Gould in the referenced thread.

 

[landedakioti]

It wasn't what I ordered I ordered road boss but where sent these I called the company they ask if I want them instead with out paying the extra 200.00 . I got them for the road boss price 298.00. I will be taking them on and off sense they are not made for pavement

 

[Dingo Man]

I've checked all over the place for chains for my tractor and finally found what I am told will work best for my use.
I'm going to get Aquiline mpc chains for just my rear tires for now. They allow for minimum clearance issues for my fenders, and R-4 Titan Heavy Duty Industrial Tractor Lug tires sized at 14.9 x 24
I am coupling that with a HLA brand, lateral float, with crossover valve, 2000 Series 7' all steel plow, made in Canada. I considered a Sno-way plow with vertical float, crossover valve, and plastic moldboard; which is also a good choice for my tractor, but I want as little stress on my loader assembly as possible. Lateral float seems from an engineering standpoint to best accomplish this task. There is another forum on snow equipment use and it has tons of useful information and detailed videos by guys like 4shorts. I learned today from one of his recent videos that to keep from slipping on the front tires he drops his plow on the ground and then raises it slightly to keep the weight on the front tires, INSTEAD of on the loader. Seems like a no brainer, but it makes perfect sense, especially coming from a former heavy equipment operator and experienced snow tractor specific professional user.
Here are links to the chain type I was referring to: Aquiline Tire Chains
And to the HLA Plow: HLA Snow

CM, I looked at their web site and noticed their sale and manufacturing headquarters is right here in Oakland, Maine. Their web page does not have a ton of info. Did you get any kind of price quote from them that you could share. If possible I would be willing to try these out if I could arrange to pick them up to avoid shipping cost.

 

[Coyote machine]

CM, I looked at their web site and noticed their sale and manufacturing headquarters is right here in Oakland, Maine. Their web page does not have a ton of info. Did you get any kind of price quote from them that you could share. If possible I would be willing to try these out if I could arrange to pick them up to avoid shipping cost.

Mine cost around $630 for size '14.9 x 24 Aquiline MPC' for R-4 Titan HD Lug loader type tires. You need to specify EXACTLY what you need to have the proper fit. I just installed them yesterday and ran them without further adjustment for about 3 hours cleaning up our most recent storm. They worked flawlessly. No hitting the fenders or any other issues; but I know I can adjust them tighter to the tires, which I will do soon. My selling dealer added $50 for inbound shipping and i went to pick them up at his store. Normally they get a full pallet or whatever but they were not close to a full order so I paid freight. I believe the distributor is wallingfords.com. See what they have to say about local sales.
Let us know how you make out.