Oops overfilled rear water filled tires

Deerlope · Feb 19, 2004

PineRidge
Yor are correcton the 75% fill and no cushion effect. without that cushion if your were to put a tire over a rock you will damage or rupture it. It shows that in my owners manual.

PineRidge · Feb 19, 2004

<font color="blue">PineRidge
Yor are correcton the 75% fill and no cushion effect. without that cushion if your were to put a tire over a rock you will damage or rupture it. It shows that in my owners manual.
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Deerlope thanks for setting me straight, I wasn't positive. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

GareyD · Feb 19, 2004

Unless I've always been told/shown wrong 75% filled is just barely over the top of the rim/valvestem. You need liquid over the top of the rim to avoid rusting the wheel during prolonged idle periods, and especially if you use calcium chloride...the only way I know of to release air pressure off of a filled tire is to take it off the tractor, lay it on it's side valve stem up and then you can releive air pressure without draining your ballast /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Filled tires are a major pain unless you really need the traction...then wheel weights work almost as well and are easier to take off when you need to lighten up the tractor (working on soft ground)

When living and working on the farm, I can remember having to replace several wheels because they had rusted so bad they wouldn't hold air (tubeless) or were so scaly they would always have a leaky inner tube.

Just my 1/2 cents worth!

GareyD

California · Feb 19, 2004

Everyone has already suggested to not exceed 75% fill.

Here's a primary source for that advice plus lot more - The Goodyear Farm Tire handbook:
http://www.goodyearag.com/tires/handbook.html

Click on Section 3 (a pdf file) and set search target for page 40
(page number 143 shows at the bottom of that page)

"Use of levels greater than this [75%, up to valve level with valve at 12:00 position] are not recommended because the tire becomes more susceptible to impact breaks."

That page is extremely valuable, it shows the actual weight of ballast added for various tire sizes, fill levels, and concentrations of calcium chloride.

I've been reading all over the Internet, learning how to set up my 'new' (1980 model) toy... I mean tractor. I found Goodyear's tire book more straightforward than Firestone or Bridgestone's.

BXMMCC · Feb 19, 2004

All very interesting. Never put water in a tire myself, so it's clear I do not know what I'm talking about. But, if the tire is indeed full of water above the stem when the stem is at 12 o'clock, it may very well be that the water won't come out on its own, especially if the tire/wheel is jacked up off the ground (it may even make sense NOT to jack it up so that the weight of the tractor etc. will help in pushing the water out).

Did you ever change the heating element in a hot water heater without draining any water at all? Just make sure that all the faucets are shut so no air gets in, then gently remove the old one, and carefully slide in the new one.

I'm guessing that if the tire is full of water, something has to help in getting air in so that water can come out - maybe do as Bird says - remove the core - then get a cocktail straw or something like a IV cathater to get air in.

Or, maybe it's really no big deal, I said I never had a tire with water in it, didn't I?

AndyMA · Feb 20, 2004

Having had loaded tires for years I think much of what is being said above makes it much more complicated than it really is.

First of all you definitely do not have to take the tires off of the tractor to fill them or remove liquid.

Quoting directly from the New Holland TN manual.

"Filling the Tires with water:

-raise the wheel from the ground and position the inflation valve at the highest point.
-unscrew the inner part of the valve and wait until the tire deflates.
-lower the wheel until the tire is depressed by approximately 30% to prevent the weight of the water from damaging the inner tube.
-screw the NEW HOLLAND connector (no. 291885) onto the valve and attach the water pipe to the conector. remembering to detach the pipe to release air when the tire begins to inflate.
-the tire is 75% full when water starts to flow out of the connector.
if less water (less weight) is required, turn the wheel so that the valve is positioned at a lower point.
-remove the connector, screw on the air valve and inflate the tire to the desired pressure."

By following these instructions it is easy to get the water level to the right level. Jack up the rear of the tractor. Position the filler at the 12 0' clock position. Remove all the air from the tire. Ignore any water coming out as it is all from overfill. When the air is out, lower the tractor to cause the lower part of the tire to compress 30%. Let the additional water drain out also. Now just inflate the tire to the desired pressure (in the case of the TN 22 psi) and your done. A perfect 75% fill.

Andy

farmerger · Feb 20, 2004

Looks like this post has gotten off topic, I was trying to get extra air out, without letting the water out. Last night I finally got the pressure down to the manufacturers recommended 18 psi. It continued to spray water throughout the entire procedure. I'm starting to think that the whole tire was filled with water.

Anyways, I'm good to go for now. Thanks for all the advice. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

frank_f15 · Feb 20, 2004

beleive u are right on. water is not compressible, thus u put an air cussion on it.

rambler · Feb 22, 2004

As Andy said, it's not too complicated. You did it right. Some companies/ dealers go to 85% full, most say 75%. To save your fluid, you would need a pro to come take the fluid out, or capture the fluid yourself with an adaptor spigot dealy (sorry for the tecnical term! ) from NAPA or the like. You likely lost _very_ little actual fluid, a little bit makes a huge difference.

For those who want to drain fluid, it doesn't take any assistence: water heaters & pipe are ridgid, a tire is flexable. Whole different things. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

--->Paul