operating KB2365 vs KB2465 backhoes

[DroppedAxle]

Hello everyone,
I'm soon to be an owner of KB2465 backhoe and am looking for documentation on it. (I've ordered the manual from M.I.E. but its backordered and won't be here for another week or so.)

I did find a manual for the KB2365 online (http://www.hafog.dk/files/dokumenter/reservedelskataloger/kioti/kb2365 backhoe.pdf).

Some things seem different with the newer KB2465. In particular, from what I can see in pics, it uses latches for the boom and swing locks whereas the KB2365 uses pins. Is that the case? How do boom/swing locks work on the B2465? What are the instructions for storing the KB2465 for transport and/or un-storing it for use?

The KB2365 manual says to never lift the back tires off the ground with the stabilizers. This is contrary to most everything I've seen or read, but I have no real experience yet. How about for the KB2465?

I want to use the KB2465 for breaking up some ice blocks on my gravel drive and may not have the patience to wait for the manual to arrive. Any pointers and hints for its safe operation much appreciated.

-DA

 

[Donfi]

Hello and congratulations on your new purchase.

I have a KB2465 attached to my CK20s, a very nice and powerful implement.

The manual does say not to operate the backhoe with the tractor wheels off of the ground. I find if I do not take all of the weight off of the rear wheels the tractor tends to move around or be pulled as I dig. I do take the weight off but do not lift the wheels clear of the ground.

The boom lock is a latch type and can easily be set or released from the seat. The swing lock is a pin type and can also be set from the seat. Both should be set when backhoe is not being used or when transporting the tractor according to the manual. I have travelled without setting them and have not had any movement, however I do try to remember to set them as good practice,

The manual suggests re-torqueing the mount bolts at 25hrs. I suggest that you do it more often since I have found mine to have loosened off several times after some serious digging.

I have also added a manual thumb to mine which is very useful for moving rocks, logs etc.

If you have any other questions you can email me and if needed I can scan sections of the manual and email them to you.

DF

 

[DroppedAxle]

Hello and congratulations on your new purchase.

I have a KB2465 attached to my CK20s, a very nice and powerful implement.

The manual does say not to operate the backhoe with the tractor wheels off of the ground. I find if I do not take all of the weight off of the rear wheels the tractor tends to move around or be pulled as I dig. I do take the weight off but do not lift the wheels clear of the ground.

The boom lock is a latch type and can easily be set or released from the seat. The swing lock is a pin type and can also be set from the seat. Both should be set when backhoe is not being used or when transporting the tractor according to the manual. I have travelled without setting them and have not had any movement, however I do try to remember to set them as good practice,

The manual suggests re-torqueing the mount bolts at 25hrs. I suggest that you do it more often since I have found mine to have loosened off several times after some serious digging.

I have also added a manual thumb to mine which is very useful for moving rocks, logs etc.

If you have any other questions you can email me and if needed I can scan sections of the manual and email them to you.

DF

Thanks, DF. I'll post pics of when it arrives next week.

So the boom latch and swing pin can be released/set without any pressure to the BH? The procedure then is: 1) unlatch boom & unpin swing; 2) lower bucket and engage ground with bucket edge, but do not lift front wheels; 3) lower stabilizers, but keep ground contact with rear wheels; 4) operate.

What engine RPM do you operate it at? I've read that beginners should step it down a notch so that operation is slower and easier...not sure if that's right.

I'll inspect the mount bolts (are they on the subframe?) before using. The shop I purchased it from did a thorough once over and tightened things up, so I'm not expecting any looseness there, but you never know.

Hoping to use it to break up some 6" solid ice shoals that have developed on my driveway with all this snow/sleet/ice/rain/melt/freeze we've been having on the east coast. But I won't be disappointed if it's not up to the task since this stuff is really hard and solid...

DA

 

[Gary Fowler]

With regard to raising the wheels off the ground, A backhoe works best when level, so if that means that you have to raise the front wheels of the ground, then position the bucket accordingly and level the tractor. The same for the rear stabilizers, one tire may be completely off the ground if you are on a slope in order to level the tractor side to side. What the manual warns about and I see many professional back hoe operators do this is jacking the whole tractor off the ground so it is setting a foot or more in the air when using it. This makes no sense at all and just limits your digging depth also, plus puts more strain on the frame.
You do have to level the tractor front to rear and side to side to operate it safely and properly, so don't be afraid to make heavy contact with the stabilizer on the high side then pick up the low side till the machine is level. This should not hurt the backhoe by doing this.

 

[DroppedAxle]

With regard to raising the wheels off the ground, A backhoe works best when level, so if that means that you have to raise the front wheels of the ground, then position the bucket accordingly and level the tractor. The same for the rear stabilizers, one tire may be completely off the ground if you are on a slope in order to level the tractor side to side. What the manual warns about and I see many professional back hoe operators do this is jacking the whole tractor off the ground so it is setting a foot or more in the air when using it. This makes no sense at all and just limits your digging depth also, plus puts more strain on the frame.
You do have to level the tractor front to rear and side to side to operate it safely and properly, so don't be afraid to make heavy contact with the stabilizer on the high side then pick up the low side till the machine is level. This should not hurt the backhoe by doing this.

Yes, that's what I see too. There are BH operating videos on youtube where the instructors tell you to get the rear wheels off the ground. It seems the more points contacting the ground the more stable it will be. As you say, getting it level is most important though. The only other reason I can think of for getting the wheels off the ground is avoid any forces on the axle that it wasn't designed for, say forces parallel to it; but I suspect axles are pretty tough in all directions on tractors.

 

[Donfi]

I operate mine at 2500 rpm. Hydraulics on the CK20 are very smooth and you can control speed of the backhoe easily by feathering the controls. I feel that operating at lower RPM causes the Hydraulic pump to work too hard. Not sure if this is so but based on what I have been told this is how I do things. Experience and experimentation will tell you what is best for your situation.

Note the boom latch in the photo holding the Rock. Don't know what I would do without the backhoe.

DF

 

[IslandTractor]

I operate mine at 2500 rpm. Hydraulics on the CK20 are very smooth and you can control speed of the backhoe easily by feathering the controls. I feel that operating at lower RPM causes the Hydraulic pump to work too hard. Not sure if this is so but based on what I have been told this is how I do things. Experience and experimentation will tell you what is best for your situation. View attachment 364420View attachment 364421View attachment 364422

Note the boom latch in the photo holding the Rock. Don't know what I would do without the backhoe.

DF

I had a 2365 and rarely if ever ran the engine at PTO speed. I think many folks run at 1800-2100 like I did for most purposes without any trouble at all. I currently have a DK40 with Woods BH90x and don't think I have ever run the BH with the engine running more than 2100 or so.

 

[IXLR8]

I had the 2465 on my CK30, the bucket and dipper controls seemed very smooth and controllable. I found the swing control to be fast and harder to operate smoothly. I usually ran my tractor in the 1600-1800 rpm range to smooth out the swing and reduce the noise and fuel consumption. I was just not good enough to operate it any faster so there was no need to run the engine faster. I have the Woods BH90x on my DK40, I put less than 1 hr on it before the ground froze last fall. Again running the engine in the 1600-1800 rpm range was good enough for me. I have a bunch of digging when the mud season is over here, I will find out for sure then. All the controls are smoother in the 90x than they were with the 2465.

 

[IslandTractor]

I had the 2465 on my CK30, the bucket and dipper controls seemed very smooth and controllable. I found the swing control to be fast and harder to operate smoothly. I usually ran my tractor in the 1600-1800 rpm range to smooth out the swing and reduce the noise and fuel consumption. I was just not good enough to operate it any faster so there was no need to run the engine faster. I have the Woods BH90x on my DK40, I put less than 1 hr on it before the ground froze last fall. Again running the engine in the 1600-1800 rpm range was good enough for me. I have a bunch of digging when the mud season is over here, I will find out for sure then. All the controls are smoother in the 90x than they were with the 2465.

The 90x has an adjustment that allows swing speed to be slowed or speeded up. If a KB2365 or 2465 was too fast, you could always put a reducer bushing in the appropriate line to slow it down. I always intended to do that for my 2365 but never got around to it before trading up to the bigger tractor.

 

[IXLR8]

The 90x has an adjustment that allows swing speed to be slowed or speeded up. If a KB2365 or 2465 was too fast, you could always put a reducer bushing in the appropriate line to slow it down. I always intended to do that for my 2365 but never got around to it before trading up to the bigger tractor.

That is one of the reasons I went with the 90x over the KB2485, it has the swing speed adjustment built in.