Opinion?

[jmh1783]

I'm currious about your 1500 rpm statement. It seems like a lot of guys run their diesels just above idle most of the time. What I've read is it really isn't good for the engine. Now with tier 4, it is even worse leading to fowling, premature pluggin of the filters and regens depending on the manufacturers particular solution to the problem. Several makers suggest idling after startup at at least 1500 and run them above 2000. Any thoughts?

I agree about the hydro whine. Worse on some than others. Question about operating if you are going to mow/brush cut do you engage the pto, ramp up the rpms and then select a gear? Is it okay to clutch at higher rpms? I've seen it done just not sure if it is good or not. Thanks for your help.

 

[DK35vince]

Question about operating if you are going to mow/brush cut do you engage the pto, ramp up the rpms and then select a gear? Is it okay to clutch at higher rpms? I've seen it done just not sure if it is good or not. Thanks for your help.

I engage the PTO at idle then throttle up.
I never clutch at higher RPM's. If I need to forward/reverse or speed up/slow down much while mowing, I just use the foot throttle.
Mowing larger open areas I use the hand throttle

 

[Snowback]

I'm currious about your 1500 rpm statement. It seems like a lot of guys run their diesels just above idle most of the time. What I've read is it really isn't good for the engine. Now with tier 4, it is even worse leading to fowling, premature pluggin of the filters and regens depending on the manufacturers particular solution to the problem. Several makers suggest idling after startup at at least 1500 and run them above 2000. Any thoughts?

This is the beauty of Mahindra built Tier 4s. They have no DPF! There is a great thread where towards the end I shared a bunch of the Mahindra info and people compared notes on the different manufacturers' methods to address the final emissions requirements. Check it out here: http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/buying-pricing-comparisons/315068-tier-4-a-4.html#post4330908

There is no doubt in my mind that the mCRD with a DOC is the way to go in CUTs that usually are not running wide open doing endless hours of ground engagement. I am often putting around at 1500- 2000 RPM doing loader work and the 2538 behaves like a champ. When mowing or doing heavy box blading then it gets wound out to 2500 RPM +/-. Mahindra was one of the few manufacturers who spent the money to leapfrog over just bolting on a DPF to an electronically controlled engine as many other manufacturers did. Really a personal preference I guess.

I agree about the hydro whine. Worse on some than others. Question about operating if you are going to mow/brush cut do you engage the pto, ramp up the rpms and then select a gear? Is it okay to clutch at higher rpms? I've seen it done just not sure if it is good or not. Thanks for your help.

I do not have shuttle/gear experience so cannot help with the clutch question. On my machine there is no clutch, so I take the RPM down low before actuating the PTO and then roll on into it. In my opinion, the HST is very easy to operate when in tight quarters, woods, and when doing a lot of loader and grapple work. This is basically my life, so it is the route I went. I honestly do not notice too much whine on the 2538, but certainly that could be a factor for some I suppose if you don't use PPE. If I do any lengthy mowing or need to road the machine down to the Church or neighbors, I just get up to speed and push the electronic cruise button, (it was a cheap option and a magnet actuates on forward pedal arm under deck). Then I sit back and stretch my legs!

If I were to have a hundred+ acres and be pulling plows and balers all day, then I would have gone for a bigger shuttle/gear machine, but for all around CUT use on smaller tracts, a good hydro is hard to beat for my types of needs.

Good luck!

 

[jmh1783]

That's good to know Snowback. I'll read that thread. I guess I'll be spending an extra $1500 for a hydro.

Thanks DK35vince. I suppose you could clutch at higher RPMs. It works in cars.

 

[Uncle Hulka]

Love my HST! Like the others, I engage the PTO at low RPM and throttle up when ready.

As to pedal arrangement, when shopping, I drove 1538 (heel-toe) and the 2555 (side-by-side). I have big feet (14 EEEE) and the side-by-side pedals won hands-down. Such an easier operation, especially if you're blowing snow with a 3-point snow blower. Just my experience.

 

[mike69440]

I'm currious about your 1500 rpm statement. It seems like a lot of guys run their diesels just above idle most of the time. What I've read is it really isn't good for the engine. Now with tier 4, it is even worse leading to fowling, premature pluggin of the filters and regens depending on the manufacturers particular solution to the problem. Several makers suggest idling after startup at at least 1500 and run them above 2000. Any thoughts?

I agree about the hydro whine. Worse on some than others. Question about operating if you are going to mow/brush cut do you engage the pto, ramp up the rpms and then select a gear? Is it okay to clutch at higher rpms? I've seen it done just not sure if it is good or not. Thanks for your help.

On my Max28 Shuttle most often I run at or below 1500 RPM for putting around and loader work, Field Mow at 2500 Rpm, Plow dirt or box blade 1800-2000 Rpm, Tractor racing at WOT!

On my slightly fueled up L39 with GST I do BH Work at 1200 to 1500 Rpm, loader work 1500 to 2000 RPM, Snow plow at 2000-2300 RPM. Power to weight is weak on the Kubota compared to the Max, but it is a torquey motor.

 

[whizdbiz2]

I'm currious about your 1500 rpm statement. It seems like a lot of guys run their diesels just above idle most of the time. What I've read is it really isn't good for the engine. Now with tier 4, it is even worse leading to fowling, premature pluggin of the filters and regens depending on the manufacturers particular solution to the problem. Several makers suggest idling after startup at at least 1500 and run them above 2000. Any thoughts?

With a hydro static transmission it's always recommended to keep the RPMs up for cooling purposes. My eMax and both my lawn mowers have hydros with cooling fans so I run the mowers just under WOT and the eMax at around 2000 to 2500. I just set the throttle and work the go peddles.

 

[Snowback]

With a hydro static transmission it's always recommended to keep the RPMs up for cooling purposes. My eMax and both my lawn mowers have hydros with cooling fans so I run the mowers just under WOT and the eMax at around 2000 to 2500. I just set the throttle and work the go peddles.

Interesting. Thanks for sharing this info. I need to research further on this topic as I have argued for a while now, (right or wrong), that the new Tier IV mCRDs could be run like old style non Tier IV engines since they do not have a DPF. Perhaps the HST cooling needs trumps this fact on Hydro models. Unless I am mowing or doing hard ground work I just don't like to rev engines excessively. Any links or other input is appreciated.

 

[bigsilver]

Well the deal is done and the tractor will be delivered tomorrow. I ended up getting a 2540 with R4 tires (loaded rears), loader, a set of pallet forks, and a finish mower. It took me a little longer to decided because I started looking into utility sized tractors as well. I was about to pull the trigger on a NH Workmaster 50 4wd, R4, loader and while test driving it I asked myself what the crap am I going to do with this beast. Personally I believe both of the tractors would do what I wanted I just think the NH would have been just a lot bigger then I needed.

 

[Snowback]

Congrats! You will enjoy the heck out of it. Have fun trmw, and a great weekend with it as well. Hopefully not too hot where you're at. We've hit the dog days down here and will be in the upper 90's for a good while it looks like.