Opinions on what to do to my '97 F350 7.3L powerstroke

[rangerfredbob]

My F350 ('97, crew cab long bed single rear wheel 4x4 manual trans with 4.10:1 gears and 35" tires) is mainly used for towing and hauling, has an unknown amount of miles on the engine (around 250k miles if you believe the previous owner) and over 350k miles on the chassis. It is a '97 but I'm in Oregon so no/minimal rust so it's pretty solid chassis wise. I don't need to be the fastest thing out there, but keeping up with a box stock Duramax would be nice...

It's near stock, 3" exhaust exiting behind the cab (crew cab), round down pipe and no muffler and a round Napa Cummins replacement air filter so minimal restriction there. Manual trans (ZF5) with a warped clutch (I'll run that for now, but will likely need an upgrade with more power). The fuel injectors are showing signs of being worn out so need new ones anyway, from what I've read excessive smoke on startup is one sign of worn injectors. I imagine the turbo might need help since it's not making much boost but could be injector related as well...

The main issue right now is when I'm pulling a long hill (say over a couple miles) the engine starts getting hot when I maintain more than say 5 psi boost at almost any engine speed which normally means going 38 mph up the mountain pass in 3rd gear at 2500 rpm and about 5 psi boost at the A to L in Normal on the gauge (Ford, so no numbers...). This is mainly with over 12,000 pounds combined weight (just recently hauled 15000 lb without a truck bed camper and 18000 lb with a camper over the Santiam Pass at the same speed and temperature). I've changed the fan clutch and belt but not the water pump, radiator is still stock looking copper core unit. I've been hesitating changing the radiator not wanting to go aluminum, might drain and flush it...

Anyway, I'm thinking Full Force 180cc injectors with a Hydra chip with Jellibuilt tunes. A few years ago the HPOP died on me and I located an unknown used one that's been working for a few years but I'd feel better with a rebuilt unit, any recommendations? For what I'm going for I'm thinking about getting the turbo rebuilt with the new style billet wheels, thoughts? I also already have a '01 intercooler but need to make the tubes and mount the thing, even have the '99 intake spider... oh, and I'll be adding a working EGT probe...

I've seen a few 7.3L people around here so I thought this might be a good place to ask, I'm not wanting all out and don't want to go to another forum yet. From what I've read the above plan should do what I want probably plus some but wanted to ask...

Ok, if you got this far, thanks for reading my ramblings

 

[Barnbuilder]

You might try one of the new KC turbos. You might try Powerstokearmy.com or other forum. I have a '99 with lots of mods. I have a '15 and there is no comparison.

 

[Bigfoot62]

I've had had seven 7.3's, and still driving the '03 F-350 that I bought new in '02. It has a Hyper-Tech stage I tuner, but otherwise stock. I also have a '16 F-250 that is bone stock, and I can't imagine needing any more horsepower. So, I'm not an expert on the performance stuff.

One word on the clutch: LUK Do a search. PartsGeek has them for $286. You'll never buy another clutch.

As far as the engine upgrades, the sky (or your wallet) is the limit.
Banks has a of kit that includes many of the parts you're looking for. My brother-in-law put one on his '96 and loved it.
That's just one of the many.

I would suggest this website: TheDieselStop It's primarily targeted to the Ford PowerStroke crowd. Lots of good reading there.

 

[Hay Dude]

My F350 ('97, crew cab long bed single rear wheel 4x4 manual trans with 4.10:1 gears and 35" tires) is mainly used for towing and hauling, has an unknown amount of miles on the engine (around 250k miles if you believe the previous owner) and over 350k miles on the chassis. It is a '97 but I'm in Oregon so no/minimal rust so it's pretty solid chassis wise. I don't need to be the fastest thing out there, but keeping up with a box stock Duramax would be nice...

It's near stock, 3" exhaust exiting behind the cab (crew cab), round down pipe and no muffler and a round Napa Cummins replacement air filter so minimal restriction there. Manual trans (ZF5) with a warped clutch (I'll run that for now, but will likely need an upgrade with more power). The fuel injectors are showing signs of being worn out so need new ones anyway, from what I've read excessive smoke on startup is one sign of worn injectors. I imagine the turbo might need help since it's not making much boost but could be injector related as well...

The main issue right now is when I'm pulling a long hill (say over a couple miles) the engine starts getting hot when I maintain more than say 5 psi boost at almost any engine speed which normally means going 38 mph up the mountain pass in 3rd gear at 2500 rpm and about 5 psi boost at the A to L in Normal on the gauge (Ford, so no numbers...). This is mainly with over 12,000 pounds combined weight (just recently hauled 15000 lb without a truck bed camper and 18000 lb with a camper over the Santiam Pass at the same speed and temperature). I've changed the fan clutch and belt but not the water pump, radiator is still stock looking copper core unit. I've been hesitating changing the radiator not wanting to go aluminum, might drain and flush it...

Anyway, I'm thinking Full Force 180cc injectors with a Hydra chip with Jellibuilt tunes. A few years ago the HPOP died on me and I located an unknown used one that's been working for a few years but I'd feel better with a rebuilt unit, any recommendations? For what I'm going for I'm thinking about getting the turbo rebuilt with the new style billet wheels, thoughts? I also already have a '01 intercooler but need to make the tubes and mount the thing, even have the '99 intake spider... oh, and I'll be adding a working EGT probe...

I've seen a few 7.3L people around here so I thought this might be a good place to ask, I'm not wanting all out and don't want to go to another forum yet. From what I've read the above plan should do what I want probably plus some but wanted to ask...

Ok, if you got this far, thanks for reading my ramblings

As a former owner of 4 different 7.3s, I would suggest you cure your overheating problem before hot rodding anything, because youll only exaggerate the problem if you add more fuel. You overheat that motor and warp the heads and you got problems.
When you say might drain and flush it Im thinking yeah, you might want to do that ? Its cheap and easy. Don稚 forget anti cavitation additive, too.
If it were me, Id be saving the hot rod money on a newer truck with lower miles that goes much faster with no modifications, but thats me.

 

[4570Man]

Is this really a worthwhile project? Needs injectors, needs turbo, overheating problems, 350k miles, plus any unmentioned problems. It seems like it’s time for an upgrade.

 

[rangerfredbob]

I was actually looking at the KC replacement wheels, it's like $500 for the parts to redo a stock turbo versus $1300 for a drop in turbo...

I was already blabbing so didn't include some of the reasons for some choices... Stock injectors and aftermarket injectors are so close in price that it's a wash to me, Full Force injectors with tuner mentioned above are about $1650, rebuilt stock are about $1000 plus the $450 for tuner. Rebuilt modified HPOP is around $600-800, same as stock rebuilt. Labor doesn't factor in to any of this, all of the above is well within my capabilities... Heck, I already have a spare set of heads, spare turbo, a core set of injectors and some other random stuff from when I got that HPOP...

I don't "need" the power that the bigger parts give but while I'm there I might as well have extra, heck, fixing the temperature problem, new injectors, intercooler and a programmer and I'd probably get what I want... I'd look for a different truck but already have this one, kinda rather put $3k of parts in this one instead of buying a 10 year old duramax, or try to find a 6 speed '99-03 7.3L...

Fixing the overheating is first on the list and part of why I haven't put an intercooler in the way yet... just didn't know how much of my problem might be caused by lazy injectors causing long duration and no power, the thing makes no smoke when running so it isn't putting out the fuel. That and I didn't know how much of my problem is from the hot air induction right behind the drivers side battery. It's been getting worse power wise over the years (had it for 7 years and 25k miles), I used to be able to get 20psi boost, now it's 15psi at 3000rpm and the annoying part is only about 3psi by 2000rpm, 7psi by about 2200rpm... Torque peak is supposed to be 1700rpm and it doesn't make jack for torque down there, the ~800rpm jump between 3rd and 4th gear at 40mph doesn't help either, when pulling the mountain pass I have more power in 3rd (2500rpm) if it would stay cool but if I go to 4th (1700rpm) it slows down...

 

[rangerfredbob]

Is this really a worthwhile project? Needs injectors, needs turbo, overheating problems, 350k miles, plus any unmentioned problems. It seems like it’s time for an upgrade.

If I was paying someone to do this, undoubtedly, but I'm not that type... Honestly that list is just a weekends worth of stuff to do for $3k and I'll get another 150k miles out of it... sure I could sell it for around $5k right now (reconstructed title) and buy a $10-15k truck to replace it just fine, but I'm curious and like the old thing...

 

[spitter]

Do you have a radiator shop by you that can boil it in acid and give it a good cleaning ? Get one of those fail safe t stast that when they get stuck they are open. Is your pressure cap working just replace it cheap insurance. If you wan't out I'll give you 5K in a heart beat.

 

[Hay Dude]

I was actually looking at the KC replacement wheels, it's like $500 for the parts to redo a stock turbo versus $1300 for a drop in turbo...

I was already blabbing so didn't include some of the reasons for some choices... Stock injectors and aftermarket injectors are so close in price that it's a wash to me, Full Force injectors with tuner mentioned above are about $1650, rebuilt stock are about $1000 plus the $450 for tuner. Rebuilt modified HPOP is around $600-800, same as stock rebuilt. Labor doesn't factor in to any of this, all of the above is well within my capabilities... Heck, I already have a spare set of heads, spare turbo, a core set of injectors and some other random stuff from when I got that HPOP...

I don't "need" the power that the bigger parts give but while I'm there I might as well have extra, heck, fixing the temperature problem, new injectors, intercooler and a programmer and I'd probably get what I want... I'd look for a different truck but already have this one, kinda rather put $3k of parts in this one instead of buying a 10 year old duramax, or try to find a 6 speed '99-03 7.3L...

Fixing the overheating is first on the list and part of why I haven't put an intercooler in the way yet... just didn't know how much of my problem might be caused by lazy injectors causing long duration and no power, the thing makes no smoke when running so it isn't putting out the fuel. That and I didn't know how much of my problem is from the hot air induction right behind the drivers side battery. It's been getting worse power wise over the years (had it for 7 years and 25k miles), I used to be able to get 20psi boost, now it's 15psi at 3000rpm and the annoying part is only about 3psi by 2000rpm, 7psi by about 2200rpm... Torque peak is supposed to be 1700rpm and it doesn't make jack for torque down there, the ~800rpm jump between 3rd and 4th gear at 40mph doesn't help either, when pulling the mountain pass I have more power in 3rd (2500rpm) if it would stay cool but if I go to 4th (1700rpm) it slows down...

Another thing to consider is when Ford built those trucks, their stock clutch in the ZF and the stock TC in the automatic can’t handle much more than a small upgrade in power. Unless you drive very carefully, youll be in danger of wiping out your clutch. I blew up a stock TC in a 99 with a 60HP chip.
Take out a notepad, write down cost of repairs/upgrades and add the honest current value of your truck the way it sits and see if a newer faster more modern replacement wouldn’t make sense.
If you got into an 06-07 Chevy/gmc Duramax crewcab, you’d be amazed how fast and capable that truck would be. I had one, and I was a Ford guy. I forgot about my previous trucks after about one day of driving that Duramax....... What a truck.....and no pollution garbage, either......

 

[ovrszd]

I've drove a 7.3L for ten years. I now own two. Basically stock '00. Lightly molested '02.

I have a lot of faith in these old trucks. But I only drive one because I don't want to pay $25-$40K for a newer used truck.

I admire your energy regarding working on your truck. With that said, you need to be logical about it. I bought this truck last Summer for $13K. 130K miles. Zero rust. Runs/drives like a new truck.