Opinions on what to do to my '97 F350 7.3L powerstroke
- Thread starter rangerfredbob
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crashz
Veteran Member
I have a 03 F450 with 6 speed and 7.3L, with about 180K miles.
1st - I love diving this truck. Yeah, any new diesel can blow the doors off, but not too many left with a handshaker. And I just love this truck. Its a perfect size for what I do with it and runs very well. Unlike you though, I have had some rust issues to deal with.
I have gone through the cooling system in mine, not because of overheating, but the age old repair water fall: The water pump bearings went out, replaced the water pump, might as well do the thermostat and housing, hoses, fan clutch and add a coolant filter. A few weeks ago, the top tank on the radiator sprung a slight leak. In went a Mishimotor radiator.
Definitely flush the cooling system. There is likely a ton of crap in there. Couple other things to think about:
- Exhaust leaks from manifolds or up-pipes will spike your ETGs and overall temps as well as lose power.
- Fuel pressure is critical to the injection system. And the 97's still have a mechanical pump. Low pressure, high demand will spike temps.
- 35" tires a re a bit big for heavy towing. With a warped clutch already, you could be simply slipping all the time.
- I don't know if the 97 has that weird warm up valve on the exhaust side of the turbo, but that can be a fail point and reduce boost and spike temps too.
A few years ago I fixed an exhaust leak and oil leak by replacing the up-pipes, turbo (with wicked wheel, and eliminated the temp controller), pedestal, oil cross-over, etc. The up-pipes were an experience I will not re-live, no matter how much I love this truck. But it runs so smooth and with very good power now. Still leaks oil from the HPOP though. That's the next project after the replacement dump body.
1st - I love diving this truck. Yeah, any new diesel can blow the doors off, but not too many left with a handshaker. And I just love this truck. Its a perfect size for what I do with it and runs very well. Unlike you though, I have had some rust issues to deal with.
I have gone through the cooling system in mine, not because of overheating, but the age old repair water fall: The water pump bearings went out, replaced the water pump, might as well do the thermostat and housing, hoses, fan clutch and add a coolant filter. A few weeks ago, the top tank on the radiator sprung a slight leak. In went a Mishimotor radiator.
Definitely flush the cooling system. There is likely a ton of crap in there. Couple other things to think about:
- Exhaust leaks from manifolds or up-pipes will spike your ETGs and overall temps as well as lose power.
- Fuel pressure is critical to the injection system. And the 97's still have a mechanical pump. Low pressure, high demand will spike temps.
- 35" tires a re a bit big for heavy towing. With a warped clutch already, you could be simply slipping all the time.
- I don't know if the 97 has that weird warm up valve on the exhaust side of the turbo, but that can be a fail point and reduce boost and spike temps too.
A few years ago I fixed an exhaust leak and oil leak by replacing the up-pipes, turbo (with wicked wheel, and eliminated the temp controller), pedestal, oil cross-over, etc. The up-pipes were an experience I will not re-live, no matter how much I love this truck. But it runs so smooth and with very good power now. Still leaks oil from the HPOP though. That's the next project after the replacement dump body.
crashz
Veteran Member
Oh - This is an odd thing that I found this spring. I normally change fuel filters every year and changed to a Wix filter last year. I had my original cap and a Motorcraft on the shelf this spring. Very noticeable difference in running and starting with the Motorcraft filter. Same fuel housing pressures, so I don't know why, but its been consistent. Same tank of fuel too.
BTW - I know it can be a heated debate, but I have learned a lot from Bill Hewitt at Powerstroke Help. His early 7.3 videos are a good resource, but if you pay attention he later contradicts himself as he learns more about the trucks. Like anything on the internet (besides ME of course!!) only a percentage is factual. That percentage is up to you to decide.
BTW - I know it can be a heated debate, but I have learned a lot from Bill Hewitt at Powerstroke Help. His early 7.3 videos are a good resource, but if you pay attention he later contradicts himself as he learns more about the trucks. Like anything on the internet (besides ME of course!!) only a percentage is factual. That percentage is up to you to decide.
abunchofidiots
Bronze Member
If you are looking at turbo setups, consider all the maintenance parts vs going to an H2E setup. The drop in GTP38R is great. I have one. By the time you add in bellowed up pipes, a new y-collector, replacement studs, bolts, flurosilicone o-rings at the pedestal, etc, you start to near the H2E kit price.
RustyA
Platinum Member
If this was my truck I would start with the overheating problem by diagnosing with a pinpoint thermometer, guessing if you take different readings across the radiator it will show a lack of heat shed. Next is assuring good coolant flow, perhaps water pump impeller is cavitated, very common on 7.3's with green coolant. Last is performing a compression test to verify you have a good base engine prior to investing in upgrades. Low compression could be the cause of smoke on startup as well as lack of boost under load. I would suspect you will find a worn engine, clogged radiator, and cavitated water pump.
dodge man
Super Star Member
I have very little knowledge on the 7.3 but do have some experience in restoring cars. To often a person fixes something up, puts more money in it then they can ever get back, then their needs change. They try and sell it and can’t get but half their money back. I’d keep it close to stock at the very lest.
OP
rangerfredbob
Veteran Member
I forgot to mention, that warmup valve has been bypassed already (I haven't looked into how...).
I have changed the coolant reservoir cap a few years ago, there is a small crack in the pressure tank which is unfortunately unobtanium but it is near the seam in the middle.
I'll take an IR gun to the radiator at some point soon, I'm expecting a radiator and water pump to help the heat issues. That Mishimoto radiator is expensive but looks very nice...
I don't expect a compression issue, it runs good, even and consistent just down on power, it did have a Spectrum air filter when I got it though which are apparently known for dusting turbo's...
This is why I'm asking to run ideas by... I know I can't go backward in the truck by putting $3k in it (bought when they were low, if anything it's worth more now than when I got it), sure there's always nickel and dime things going to happen on high mileage but this is a leaf sprung truck with two solid axles, front with ball joints, it needs tinkering here and there but is solid. Getting a core long block at some point isn't out of the question to keep on hand...
The clutch is what it is, could be slipping but isn't noticeable now, it's been jerky for years and I think since I've owned it... it's on the list no matter what and will get done, I just changed the hydraulic assembly (external slave) a couple months ago.
Once I get a shop in a couple months (hopefully) things should happen easier and I'll be able to do winter projects, and on a flat surface! Even have a 2 post lift that needs a home which will help with some things...
I have changed the coolant reservoir cap a few years ago, there is a small crack in the pressure tank which is unfortunately unobtanium but it is near the seam in the middle.
I'll take an IR gun to the radiator at some point soon, I'm expecting a radiator and water pump to help the heat issues. That Mishimoto radiator is expensive but looks very nice...
I don't expect a compression issue, it runs good, even and consistent just down on power, it did have a Spectrum air filter when I got it though which are apparently known for dusting turbo's...
This is why I'm asking to run ideas by... I know I can't go backward in the truck by putting $3k in it (bought when they were low, if anything it's worth more now than when I got it), sure there's always nickel and dime things going to happen on high mileage but this is a leaf sprung truck with two solid axles, front with ball joints, it needs tinkering here and there but is solid. Getting a core long block at some point isn't out of the question to keep on hand...
The clutch is what it is, could be slipping but isn't noticeable now, it's been jerky for years and I think since I've owned it... it's on the list no matter what and will get done, I just changed the hydraulic assembly (external slave) a couple months ago.
Once I get a shop in a couple months (hopefully) things should happen easier and I'll be able to do winter projects, and on a flat surface! Even have a 2 post lift that needs a home which will help with some things...
oliver1555
Gold Member
A lift is very nice! I made a cradle to hold the back tires on our Z-turn mower. No more lying on the ground to change blades.
Barnbuilder
Gold Member
- Joined
- Apr 21, 2009
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- 397
- Location
- Waxhaw, NC
- Tractor
- Bobcat A300, Kubota F3680, JCB 212S sold
Might want to do a compression test so you're not wasting money.
