Options for SSQA trailer mover (receiver hitch) ?

[civilian]

One thing I have noticed with a tractor's loader arms moving trailers, is that single axle trailers move and turn easier. Tandem axle trailers tend to want to go straight and not turn. Especailly if on an incline. I have a circle drive that has a slight incline leading up to a garage door. I need to get headed out the main drive and then back/push the trailer in the door. If I try the other way, I loose steerage with the tandems pushing them up. Jon

 

[Vigo327]

Well, one thing i noticed about moving trailers with ball on fel is that since the ball is so far out in front of your front tires it amplifies all your inputs and makes it more sensitive to steering, but less steering force out there as well.

But as far as the tandem axle not wanting to turn, if its empty i would just pick it up further with the loader. Front axle may not come off the ground but should be unloaded enough to make it easier to slide those tires sideways a little as youre steering it around.

 

[civilian]

Well, one thing i noticed about moving trailers with ball on fel is that since the ball is so far out in front of your front tires it amplifies all your inputs and makes it more sensitive to steering, but less steering force out there as well.

But as far as the tandem axle not wanting to turn, if its empty i would just pick it up further with the loader. Front axle may not come off the ground but should be unloaded enough to make it easier to slide those tires sideways a little as youre steering it around.

Tail drags if the tongue is lifted too high. Jon

 

[deezler]

That is an advantage of my single arm hitch receiver mount. I do understand that I could be twisting the loader arms, but my trailer are empty at the time and are light tongue weights. Jon

Yeah - I would have definitely bought that style also, if I could have found one for sale anywhere. Instead I went overboard and got more attachment than I really even needed.

 

[deezler]

Well in some sorta mostly good-news a $32 hitch extender from harbor freight made this thing work a lot better for light trailer toting.

I can now see the ball when I stand up, meaning I can snatch and move trailers without dismounting. huzzah.

I'll probably still get off and latch the coupler on any heavier trailers I shuffle around, though.

 

[civilian]

I usually latch the coupler. I feel when pushing against the open latch and trying to push up a slight grade, that a latched coupler is stronger. And less chance of trailer coming or the ball. Jon

 

[Xfaxman]

I always latch the coupler when using the dump trailer:

 

[ptsg]

The ball couplers here are self latching and most have a wear indicator built in. So I just sneak the ball under the coupler, lift and it's latched.

 

[Vigo327]

Good old europe actually giving a crap about towing safety.

Over here if you try to mandate a 'self latching' design or a 'wear indicator' and it adds $30 they'll cry foul about 'safety nazis', BUT... if you can invent a drawbar or a trailer coupler that is 'shiny' and 'different' you can sell it for big bucks to a bunch of people with lifted trucks (on which almost all the mods on the truck made towing less safe), whether it accomplishes a damn thing or not. Even if it makes things worse! As long as it's shiny and different, SOMEONE with a lifted truck is going to spend $300+ on it and as long as they don't ever 'lose' a trailer they'll think it's somehow better.

Could probably even chrome dip a standard coupler from Portugal and get somebody over here to spend $150 on it. As long as it's not mandated for safety reasons.

 

[ptsg]

Good old europe actually giving a crap about towing safety.

Over here if you try to mandate a 'self latching' design or a 'wear indicator' and it adds $30 they'll cry foul about 'safety nazis', BUT... if you can invent a drawbar or a trailer coupler that is 'shiny' and 'different' you can sell it for big bucks to a bunch of people with lifted trucks (on which almost all the mods on the truck made towing less safe), whether it accomplishes a damn thing or not. Even if it makes things worse! As long as it's shiny and different, SOMEONE with a lifted truck is going to spend $300+ on it and as long as they don't ever 'lose' a trailer they'll think it's somehow better.

Could probably even chrome dip a standard coupler from Portugal and get somebody over here to spend $150 on it. As long as it's not mandated for safety reasons.

It's shiny alright.

This one costs around €70 or $70 since it's pretty much the same these days.

Note the wear indicator. It's a sticker but it's also engraved under the sticker. "X" means not latched, "+" means good positive latch and "-" means too wore out, time to the wallet out.