hr3
Veteran Member
Anybody tried one yet,,, I was looking for a new bar yesterday but they didn't have my size when I saw the Power Sharp set up.. I picked it up and it cut real good but haven't needed to use the sharpening part yet ??
Oregon Power Sharp ???
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kubota2234
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Been wondering about that myself. If you ever use it in the near future let me know. I wondered about putting one on my limbing saw but just thought it was another one of those foolish tool gadgets.
Redbug
Veteran Member
Corrrect me if I am wrong...Aren't you limited on the number of times you can sharpen the chain to something around 6 sharpenings?
I think it depends on how much material you are removing. If you hit a rock or piece of metal and you are trying to save a chain, you might need to grind a lot of material off to get past that. I sharpen by hand filing and have several chains that i have gotten many more than 6 sharpenings out of.
Not really sure how it works yet .. I bought it when we started cutting next years wood and after 6 cord and 3 hits in the dirt it still doesn't need sharpening 
According to the instructions that came with it you get 20 to 30 sharpening s out of it,, a 2 second burst each time,,
kubota2234,, Not sure about using on limbing I've noticed that when limbing it kinda grabs hard unless you have the saw revved up high..??
According to the instructions that came with it you get 20 to 30 sharpening s out of it,, a 2 second burst each time,,
kubota2234,, Not sure about using on limbing I've noticed that when limbing it kinda grabs hard unless you have the saw revved up high..??
Not really sure how it works yet .. I bought it when we started cutting next years wood and after 6 cord and 3 hits in the dirt it still doesn't need sharpening
According to the instructions that came with it you get 20 to 30 sharpening s out of it,, a 2 second burst each time,,
kubota2234,, Not sure about using on limbing I've noticed that when limbing it kinda grabs hard unless you have the saw revved up high..??
WOW!! I have been cutting firewood for 28 years now and have never seen a chain that is still sharp after 2 cords, let alone 6 and a few trips in the dirt! I use Stihl & Oregon pro grade chains and after 2 cords, a session with the file is usually in order. I simply refuse to cut with a less than sharp chain. May have to look at one of these Powersharps if they are anywhere near that good...
kubota2234
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well that is amazing staying sharp that long. I also use nothing but oregon pro chains and always keep then extremely sharp
Hopefully they will be dependable for you. I have a small stihl saw that I limb trees with and could see that being an add on sometime
Hopefully they will be dependable for you. I have a small stihl saw that I limb trees with and could see that being an add on sometime
Redbug
Veteran Member
That's very interesting hr3. That many sharpenings and the time it saves...I will read up on them. Hmmm...old dog learning new tricks...
Just a quick update on the Power Sharp ..Still havn't used it .. Yes happy in a way but I would like to try it too.. I'm tempted to just use it and see if it gets sharper.. I just finished cutting down 4 cord of wood for next years heating season and the saw is still throwing 1/2" long strips out so I don't want to screw it up..:confused2:
.. Yes happy in a way but I would like to try it too.. I'm tempted to just use it and see if it gets sharper.. I just finished cutting down 4 cord of wood for next years heating season and the saw is still throwing 1/2" long strips out so I don't want to screw it up..:confused2:
Maybe you should read this http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/chainsaws/228503-oregon-powernow-40v-rechargeable-chainsaw.html
Well today I tryed it,,It was kinda muddy out there today and the chain got a bit dull,, WOW !!!! what a change,, sparks flew everywhere and scared me a bit,,but I held it on there for 3 sec. then took it back of the saw,, The whole thing only took about 60 sec to do.. What a differance,, 1/2" to 1" chips were flying,,,
Might have to do it next year too..:thumbsup::thumbsup: to Oregon !!
Might have to do it next year too..:thumbsup::thumbsup: to Oregon !!
MossRoad
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10 cords of wood on one chain with no sharpening???
Each year I drop about 50-60 12-14" locust trees that, when cut and split, produce about 6 cords of firewood every year. I have 4-5 chains and I sharpen them all at least once before it is done. What am I missing here?
10 cords of wood on one chain with no sharpening???
Each year I drop about 50-60 12-14" locust trees that, when cut and split, produce about 6 cords of firewood every year. I have 4-5 chains and I sharpen them all at least once before it is done. What am I missing here?
Sorry..I'm cutting mostly maple if that makes a diff.. Not sure how hard "locust" is,,
The only complaint about the setup is the front roller on the bar has twice plugged up on me,, enough to stop the chain???
cqaigy2
Super Member
I have to confess, i sharpen my chain much more also and that's mostly fir.
You don't by chance lub your roller do you? I had a friend of mine heard he should lub the roller, which he had never done. It started jamming on him as well, I've never lube mine except what the chain transfers to it. My tip hasn't ever jammed up even on pitchy wood. He cleaned his back up got the wood chips out of it doesn't lub it any and hasn't had a problem since.
IndyIan
Veteran Member
10 cords of wood on one chain with no sharpening???
Each year I drop about 50-60 12-14" locust trees that, when cut and split, produce about 6 cords of firewood every year. I have 4-5 chains and I sharpen them all at least once before it is done. What am I missing here?
Carbide teeth!
On the powersharp chain that is.I find bucking in the woods that I touch up a normal chain every 3 or 4 tanks, mostly for the rest! When I wear out this bar and chain I will be looking into the powersharp system though. Seems like a good idea.
Treemonkey1000
Veteran Member
Alright my 2 cents worth. I do a lot of cutting and was bad mouthing the self sharpening saws a while back. A Oregon Rep contacted me to see if I was willing to try out the Power sharp system? He sent me a bar and chain for my Husky 338XPT top handle. I use this saw up in the tree and for ground work. He asked me for the serial number because it made a difference as to which set up they send. I gave him what I thought was the S/N. The bar they sent didn't have an oil hole in the side of the bar.(my fault for wrong serial number) Rather than send it back for the right one I drilled the oil hole myself. It is an odd looking chain profile. I noticed that it does tend to grab a bit. The chain cuts really fast. My two ground guys kept grabbing my saw to use it because they liked the way it cut. They aren't real experienced and kept pinching the chain off. What I noticed was the driver links would deform easier than my standard chain. A touch of the file to clean them up and back on the bar. No big deal again for me. What I do is run the chain fairly tight. After about 2 months I finally decided to put a sharpen on the chain. Snapping on the sharpener was quick and easy. Just snap it on the two guide holes in the tip of the bar and snap a flip latch. Start up the saw. Rev it up to 3/4 throttle and bump the end of the sharpener against a solid object for a few seconds. After that I checked how it cut several different types of wood. It seemed to be cutting just as good as new.
On the positive side it keeps a sharp edge longer than my standard chains. I don't have to pull the chain off to put it on the sharpener. That saves time especially if you bugger up the chain in dirt.
The negative side is what appears to be soft driver links so run the chain fairly tight. If you toss this chain on a standard bar without the guide holes you won't be able to use the self sharpener. And you might have a hard time hand or machine sharpening this chain. The fact that the cutting teeth are harder should decrease how often you have to sharpen the chain. Also make sure you order the right bar for your saw.
Would I buy one of these systems as a replacement for bar and chain more than likely if the price was right.
On the positive side it keeps a sharp edge longer than my standard chains. I don't have to pull the chain off to put it on the sharpener. That saves time especially if you bugger up the chain in dirt.
The negative side is what appears to be soft driver links so run the chain fairly tight. If you toss this chain on a standard bar without the guide holes you won't be able to use the self sharpener. And you might have a hard time hand or machine sharpening this chain. The fact that the cutting teeth are harder should decrease how often you have to sharpen the chain. Also make sure you order the right bar for your saw.
Would I buy one of these systems as a replacement for bar and chain more than likely if the price was right.
