OT -- Best Synthetic for Mini-Van

[dmccarty]

I will agree with Chuck's points. Sorta. If at least two of the three points don't apply to you just use the cheap dino oil.

I have been using Shell 5w40 for the truck and tractor for the last few years. I just changed the oil and put in JD 0w40 in the truck and tractor. The last oil change with Shell 5w40 went 10,500 miles. UOA showed less wear than the previous oil change and the truck is wearing well under the universal averages for the engine. The TBN was 10.5ish. The TBN with new oil is 12. I threw away good oil at 10,500 miles. The lab said go to to 12,000. I will try to NOT do that but one reason I use synthetic is that I can run over the change intravel and not worry so much FOR MY TYPE OF DRIVING. If I was in stop and go city traffic I suspect I would have fuel in the oil from ideling and the oil would have to be changed out.

When I switched to 5w40 I did see about a 3% improvement in MPG. Not enough to pay the price difference in the oil but the extra mpg is one of the reasons I use synthetics.

Later,
Dan

 

[sw03]

But your talking about a boutique or niche oil company not a major off the shelf brand company. Much like the lubricants company I work for they are in the specialty business aimed at customers that are looking for the best. They will give you a little extra information like a general characteristic of base oil type, in this case PAO. After all, that's their selling point. I highly doubt you would get any information about the exact base oil and the manufacturer of that base stock just like you would be hard pressed to get any specifics about the additive package.

In my area amsoil is sold all over and last I looked, Amsoil oils are POA/ester based too.

 

[joe48]

My personal experience w synth is very positive, 218k+ miles on my 2001 Chrysler T&C van using (I can hear the groans and moans now) Walmart Syn 10w30 or 10w40 when it is available in the 5qt jug. I originally changed out the first time at 5k to flush the engine(it had 27k on it when bought), then evry 15k with filetrs every 5k, did that for 3 changes ,then went to 15k on oil and 7500 on filters. You will not find a spec of sludge under the valve cover anywhere.
In the tractor I'm running Shell Rotella Diesel Syn 5w40, change O&F at 200 hours, that engine is spotless too with about 800 hard hrs.
In a tractor the air filter maintenance is almost more important than the O&F. In dusty conditions it should be ckecked and loose dirt shaken off and inspected every few days and changed on the factory schedule or sooner if in doubt.

 

[kenmac]

We don't wear it out and it doesn't break down in modern vehicles.

According to you'er statment ......Why change oil at all in modern vehicles ?

 

[sw03]

According to you'er statment ......Why change oil at all in modern vehicles ?

Because it is WRONG. The add pack wears out bigtime...BONG.

 

[Dargo]

I have yet to see a car actually live longer because of synthetics. Something else usually toasts a car before oil related failures do.

Then you have never seen a Toyota 3.0 liter or a Chrysler 2.7 liter engine, just to name two. Both of these engines have design flaws that can cause oil to sludge even when changed at 3k intervals. Good synthetics in these vehicles prevent this from happening.

Personally, when buying a used vehicle, I will walk away 100% of the time if the previous owner has stretched oil changes past 7500 miles or more between changes. Most everyone I know are the same. I'm not even remotely interested in those vehicles at any price.

 

[klm]

How would you know Dargo?

 

[Dargo]

How would I know what?? I didn't state anything that isn't common knowledge or information that can't be had doing 5 minutes of research.

 

[klm]

"I will walk away 100% of the time if the previous owner has stretched oil changes past 7500 miles or more between changes."

How would you know?

 

[DieselPower]

I would think he does like I do, ask to see all service records for the vehicle to see what type of service was done to it in the past.