Ouch, anyone able to explain the cost difference?
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true temper
Silver Member
Dealership should be ashamed of gouging prices like that. If you are really cheap like me get the numbers and look on eBay they usually have what I need for cheap.
BleedingOrange
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Talking about dealer gouging, I had to replace a MAF sensor on a vehicle yesterday, dealer price, 280, Amazon 40 delivered.
bearthebruce
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Yeah, and I bet it is a Chinese Replacement Auto Part otherwise known as CRAP. You'll be replacing it again soon!
We live this every day in our business with people using the cheap online parts thinking they are the equivalent of the OE part. They are not. They fail at a really high rate. Know there is some justification for the difference in the price of the parts.
I hope in your case I am wrong.
newbury
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Used to get most of my work (oil changes, brakes) done at local high schools, they needed the work, students needed the experience. Just took some time getting it lined up. Then the lawyers got involved and they stopped the practice.
For important equipment, I prefer to match bearings at a brick and mortar bearing store. They have skin in the game and don't want to sell a cheap knock off and ruin a reputation. Amazon don't care, you were looking for the cheapest option and they supplied it, the out come is on you.
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Bottom line is, we live in an inflationary economy so nothing is cheap today and it's progressively getting worse. Myself, I make a concerted effort not to buy Asian stuff as it's usually substandard to begin with.
I've never replaced a MAF sensor on any vehicle yet. I just clean the heated element with CRC MAF cleaner. They do get fouled over time, especially when you use an oiled filter like a K&N. The oil from the filter element fouls the MAF sensor and throws an error code.
I quit using K&N's years ago. Too much hassle with EPA correct engines. I just run dry pleated paper filters now and change them out regularly.
I've never replaced a MAF sensor on any vehicle yet. I just clean the heated element with CRC MAF cleaner. They do get fouled over time, especially when you use an oiled filter like a K&N. The oil from the filter element fouls the MAF sensor and throws an error code.
I quit using K&N's years ago. Too much hassle with EPA correct engines. I just run dry pleated paper filters now and change them out regularly.
Shenandoah MF1760
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I think some of this comes down to having zero or as little as possible inventory, in order to avoid paying taxes.
The one bearing might have been a common replacement part for that machine as well as others. The one you needed they'd probably have to order after finding where they could get it So, they factored in a "work" fee to cover the time needed.
Sometimes the dealer is the worst possible place to obtain a part due to the cost they place on that OEM packaging.
Amazon is a gamble, and fakes abound. I'd rather pay more to McMaster-Carr for things like hardened fasteners etc. to ensure I'm getting what I need.
For bearings, a place like Ohio Bearing Supply is good if you don't have a local shop.
The one bearing might have been a common replacement part for that machine as well as others. The one you needed they'd probably have to order after finding where they could get it So, they factored in a "work" fee to cover the time needed.
Sometimes the dealer is the worst possible place to obtain a part due to the cost they place on that OEM packaging.
Amazon is a gamble, and fakes abound. I'd rather pay more to McMaster-Carr for things like hardened fasteners etc. to ensure I'm getting what I need.
For bearings, a place like Ohio Bearing Supply is good if you don't have a local shop.
OP
Richard
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Bit of an update and a question....
I took the bearings to local auto places..... NOBODY has/had them unless I wanted something that 'should' fit but, made in china. For all I know, the Timkins might be made in China but I wanted to keep the same numbers.
Finally went online, found both inner/outer bearings with races.... shipped for essentially $80.00
That's the update.
Now for a question....
The larger of the races, I was able to tap out using an appropriately sized screw driver and gently tapping around the back side of it. (I was told I need the number on the race to be sure to get the correct race, I didn't realize there might be different races for a bearing but that's what I inferred from what I was told)
None the less.... I get the large out, turn over to tap the small one out. It ain't budging.... long story short, I finally got it down on concrete floor with a pad under it and ended up having to WAIL on it (screwdriver) to "tap" it out. Wasn't apperently moving so pulled some heat out to heat around it (gently, nothing horifically hot)
Finally started to budge. I spent 2 minutes tapping out the large one, maybe 45 minutes "beating the snot" out of the small one BUT, got it out.
This is suggesting to me I'm going to have some issues "tapping" the small one back in. It dawned on me that after I clean up the insides, that alone might help.... but if not, thought I'd see if there are any secrets to reinstalling a stubborn race?
None of my sockets are that perfect fit. One I used, was able to slide into the race and that was from the back side. I need to be more careful on the bearing side.
Open to any wisdom on installing.
I took the bearings to local auto places..... NOBODY has/had them unless I wanted something that 'should' fit but, made in china. For all I know, the Timkins might be made in China but I wanted to keep the same numbers.
Finally went online, found both inner/outer bearings with races.... shipped for essentially $80.00
That's the update.
Now for a question....
The larger of the races, I was able to tap out using an appropriately sized screw driver and gently tapping around the back side of it. (I was told I need the number on the race to be sure to get the correct race, I didn't realize there might be different races for a bearing but that's what I inferred from what I was told)
None the less.... I get the large out, turn over to tap the small one out. It ain't budging.... long story short, I finally got it down on concrete floor with a pad under it and ended up having to WAIL on it (screwdriver) to "tap" it out. Wasn't apperently moving so pulled some heat out to heat around it (gently, nothing horifically hot)
Finally started to budge. I spent 2 minutes tapping out the large one, maybe 45 minutes "beating the snot" out of the small one BUT, got it out.
This is suggesting to me I'm going to have some issues "tapping" the small one back in. It dawned on me that after I clean up the insides, that alone might help.... but if not, thought I'd see if there are any secrets to reinstalling a stubborn race?
None of my sockets are that perfect fit. One I used, was able to slide into the race and that was from the back side. I need to be more careful on the bearing side.
Open to any wisdom on installing.
mrmikey
Veteran Member
An easier way to get a race out, if you have access to it, would be a welder. Run a bead around the inside of the race, when it cools, it'll fall out.
As for driving it back in, if you get the old race out using the above method, use it to drive the new one in. Make sure to clean the rust and crap from the area first tho. If you chuck the race in the freezer for a bit and warm up the hub with a torch, (or oven if no one catches you ) it should almost fall in place.
As for driving it back in, if you get the old race out using the above method, use it to drive the new one in. Make sure to clean the rust and crap from the area first tho. If you chuck the race in the freezer for a bit and warm up the hub with a torch, (or oven if no one catches you
) it should almost fall in place.