our new home may have to be footed slab, no basement or crawlspace - input?

   / our new home may have to be footed slab, no basement or crawlspace - input?
  • Thread Starter
#11  
Wow, thanks for all the input!
The 10 inches of foam under the slab certainly seems like overkill. Then I read the article and they told that on top of the concrete they put PT sleepers and more rigid foam. Holy smokes batman. It would be ice to know what the payback period is on that idea. Too many variables to guestimate. Regardless, 3 inch XPS is what I have.
Garage same level...We are trying to create a barrier free home, so wish to avoid a step up. Many many tuck under garages are on the same level as the house basement (in our area), and I lived in one for a while. That was 35 years ago. Today's cars leak and vaporize much less fuel than the cars of the 70s and 80s, maybe it is not as much of a factor anymore. At the time I lived in that home I did not notice a problem. The wife will not go back to detached garage like we have now in our home.
RFH and mini splits... you hit a hot topic with this. I have been tossing this around for a while. First, I love radiant floor heat. I have it in two workshop buildings with footed slabs (very similar construction to this proposed house plan). It's comfortable and efficient, and quiet. But there are drawbacks. Concrete slab complexity, where the tubing can be damaged during or anytime after pour, and ruin the workability of the system. I have not had this happen yet, but it ciuld, and this being a house there is not really any room for a screw up like that. Also, ac must be seperate. So in my workshops I put window units in the wall. For the house it would be mini splits. The floor plan is not wide open so I guess I'd need four minis, and that would leave four rooms with none. If I left doors open, the heat would find its way around, but I have read that humidity curiously does not flow out of non serviced rooms that well. Also, I'd really like to have continously recirculation and filtering, and complete distibution of incoming fresh air. No way around it in my mind, that means ductwork. Also, the cost of a RFH system combined with four mini splits is the same or more than a hi efficiency furnace and heat pump for AC and cool season heat. Both the RFH and the furnace require LP, no natural gas here, and both the mini splits and the heat pump use electricity, at about seer 18. The big difference is air quality. With ductwork I can blend HRV supplidd fresh air and distribute it better after filtering. Every room will be the same temp and humidity. Seems like the right way to go.
BUILDERMC what is the 4 inch barrier between slabs you are talking about? I met with the building inspector before anyone else and he did not see a problem with the plan. I will ask him again if you can give more detail. Thanks..
Septic flow downhill... yes, this is a hot button too. I literally will not build on this lot if pumping my chit uphill is the only way to do it. I also refuse to pay for a mound system. I told the designer that came out to find a suitable drain field location, that if he could not design a gravity flow system with no mound, I would not build it. He did find an area that will work if I have to build new. If I had done the walkout basement idea, the septic system would have been new, because we would have been too far away and 12 feet below the existing system. With the on grade one level home plan, we stand a chance to use the old system.
The garage is existing. It is 24x48, so I guess that's big enough. It's not in the right location, so luckily (?) the slab on grade construction of it was done poorly. It was poured without a vapor barrier nor any foam under it, so it sweats every day it is not frozen. Anything we park in it rusts and stinks. We found a guy who will pick it up and allow us to break up the crappy uneven broken concrete floor, then bring it back onto a footed kneewall. We plan to vapor barrier and foam board under the new floor of course. And probably will need 16 inches of sand too. That should dry it up in there.
Besides this large garage, there is a 32x45 pole she'd with concrete floor we recently re-tinned, plus a brand new 35x60 RFH shop, plus another older 25x96 pole she'd on the site. I think I will get by just fine without a basement closet.
 
   / our new home may have to be footed slab, no basement or crawlspace - input? #12  
As far as the 4" lift from the garage, I have seen that on every house I have been in and it could be a CODE requirement(I haven't looked it up. You could still get the disabled entry by having a poured in concrete ramp. Just be sure to slope it in all approach directions as you don't want a flat curb tripping hazard.
It sounds like you have just about everything figured out.

Oh, don't skimp on anything that will provide you energy savings including windows and doors. They will pay back dividends in the future as energy cost are just going to keep increasing.
I was speaking to my neighbor who was talking about a house they had visited (bought the guys 40 foot motorhome) and the energy efficiency. It was a 10,000 sq foot house designed by a energy efficiency engineering guy who does this for companies a living. It has all the available energy efficient insulation, doors, windows and appliances. His average electric bill is $75 per month. I did as much as I knew how on my 2308 sq. foot house built 5 years ago and my bill averages $150.
 
   / our new home may have to be footed slab, no basement or crawlspace - input? #13  
You have to keep in mind that when you do a plan review with your building inspector he is doing a quick review. If something is missing from your plan whatever it may be it doesn't mean he will pick it up on the review but when he gets on site and notices something is not correct he will make you change it.
The 4" curb/barrier is just that in case of fuel leaks, snow run off from cars, vapors. Just stop and think about it, you pull in with snow on your car, park it, walk inside next thing you know the water is seeping to your house walls. Or you knock over your 5 gallon jug of diesel/gas fuel and it wicks up into the framing. There is only one way to remove that smell. #1 Light a match :fiery:eek:r #2 take it down and replace it:hissyfit:. Pitching the slab will take care of most of the run off but not all. As Gary said you'll will need to create a ramp if your looking for no transition from garage to house. Also sometimes the inspector when he is doing his inspection misses things that doesn't mean that just because he didn't pick up on it that it makes it right. In the end you are the one that needs to make sure things are correct.
Also the 4" barrier is not just a barrier in the doorway the garage floor is set normally 4" lower.
 
   / our new home may have to be footed slab, no basement or crawlspace - input? #14  
Wow, thanks for all the input!
The 10 inches of foam under the slab certainly seems like overkill. Then I read the article and they told that on top of the concrete they put PT sleepers and more rigid foam. Holy smokes batman. It would be ice to know what the payback period is on that idea. Too many variables to guestimate. Regardless, 3 inch XPS is what I have.
<snip>

The Passive House and Net Zero folks don't mess around. :laughing: The basic approach is to insulate and seal the heck out of the building envelope and use an energy recovery air handler system (ERV or HRV) combined with humidity control. http://www.broan.com/products/lifes...fference-bf711e80-2043-41a0-bf21-98542b29a2d0

Your climate, which cycles between very cold and hot & humid, has a built-in high HVAC energy cost. I think your payback period for adopting some of those building strategies would be reasonable. Bottom line is more comfort at a lower cost.
 
   / our new home may have to be footed slab, no basement or crawlspace - input? #15  
My house and garage are on the same slab under the same roof with no step between the two areas. No code problems. I like having the garage so close, separated from the kitchen by a 36" door, and it is also it's own radiant zone. Doing it this way also makes it easy to install the radiant boiler, water heater and solar storage in the garage. I designated an area of about 10'X10' for the solar stuff that was opposite the master bath wall and next to the laundry room, in the overall garage plan of about 850 sq ft. This means all inside piping and instant hot water to the master bath and laundry. The laundry room is accessed from the garage and has it's own floor drain, so no floods in the house. Plus it is a half bath and serves the garage with toilet and deep sink. The solar collectors are located directly above the storage tanks which simplifies their piping too.

Projects in the garage are so much nicer with this easy access and a warm floor. Plus I get to listen to the solar gurgling away most of the day.

Last winter we used no oil backup heat at all and now the water heater is turned off for the warm season. This time of year I leave the house open all day to feel the fresh breeze and blow off some of the extra heat. Now running the solar only about one out of three days and have 650 gallons of hot water.

So far I'm thrilled with such a practical design.
 
   / our new home may have to be footed slab, no basement or crawlspace - input? #16  
Ooops, double post
 
   / our new home may have to be footed slab, no basement or crawlspace - input? #17  
My house and garage are on the same slab under the same roof with no step between the two areas. No code problems. I like having the garage so close, separated from the kitchen by a 36" door, and it is also it's own radiant zone. Doing it this way also makes it easy to install the radiant boiler, water heater and solar storage in the garage. I designated an area of about 10'X10' for the solar stuff that was opposite the master bath wall and next to the laundry room, in the overall garage plan of about 850 sq ft. This means all inside piping and instant hot water to the master bath and laundry. The laundry room is accessed from the garage and has it's own floor drain, so no floods in the house. Plus it is a half bath and serves the garage with toilet and deep sink. The solar collectors are located directly above the storage tanks which simplifies their piping too.

Projects in the garage are so much nicer with this easy access and a warm floor. Plus I get to listen to the solar gurgling away most of the day.

Last winter we used no oil backup heat at all and now the water heater is turned off for the warm season. This time of year I leave the house open all day to feel the fresh breeze and blow off some of the extra heat. Now running the solar only about one out of three days and have 650 gallons of hot water.

So far I'm thrilled with such a practical design.

Sounds interesting would like to know the details did you built it yourself or is it bought as unit or assembled purchased parts.?
thanks
Mark
 
   / our new home may have to be footed slab, no basement or crawlspace - input? #18  
Thanks, good sanity check on the basement closet we are giving up. Yup, we have all 36 inch doors, and virtually no vertical barriers whatsoever. Even the attached garage floor is the same elevation as the house floor (is there any giant problem with that idea?). And our laundry room is also the utility room, and there is a lot of room to set up an iron board (yes, she irons!), plus more space for storage, and a nice window.

As others have mentioned, in some places, its code to have the garage floor lower than the house because of fuel and water issues. And, again, as others have mentioned, it would be easy to add a concrete ramp with a very low slope leading up to an entry door, so if you have to make the floor lower, it won't be that much of an obstacle to resolve. Good luck with your house plans. Sounds exciting. :thumbsup:
 
   / our new home may have to be footed slab, no basement or crawlspace - input? #19  
Mark,

I started with a 48 X 60 steel frame building. Then added a 12' overhang on the south side for a deck and solar roof. Then framed it up in a conventional manner with the steel as a skeleton. First I put up the steel H posts on concrete footings and bolted on the welded trusses, put on the roof and then poured the slab and framed the interior and exterior walls. From the start it was designed with solar and radiant heat with oil as backup. The 12' overhang provides a 12X60 covered porch off the garage and master bedroom

About 2000' of living space and 850' of garage, two covered porches, two bedrooms, 2 1/2 baths. I added a front porch with its own steel posts and roof. Not attached, but right next to the main house. Then built a 5' wide steel and glass front door.

The lot (5 acres) slopes slightly, so the two 10' garage doors are at ground level on the west side and the front porch is on the Northeast corner, about 5' above ground. The front porch is the place to be around sunset with a view across Smith Valley.

I've been building it for eight years and just tried to get my final last week. A few electrical issues failed me, but we'll move in by the 4th of July. In the meantime we're finishing the tile throughout.

It's been fun dialing in the solar too. The house sits on an 8" slab so it's very stable in temperature and stores a lot of energy. It has four thermostat zones and each zone has two thermostats, side by side on the wall. Six 4X10 collectors heat 600 gallons of stored drinking water that then heats the radiant water with a heat exchanger. The water heater heats by circulating its water with the solar storage water as determined by a controller. A separate setpoint controller measures solar tank temperature and allows floor heating if called for. This allows me to manage the temperatures and always have plenty to heat the water heater. A recirculating system provides instant hot water to the kitchen and 2nd bath (master bath too, but it is directly behind the water heater and doesn't need recirculation). And of course the solar is on it's own differential controller with a shutoff on the solar pump for limiting it's hours. The tanks are set to reach 140 degrees max.

The two thermostats per zone, act in this way: One is solar only and programmable. It is used to set the maximum temp I'll allow in a zone and can be programmed to deliver heat at certain times and at different temperature settings. It's a conventional 24 volt stat. The idea is to bring up the slab temperature and store the rest in the solar tanks for later and for domestic water. The second thermostat in each zone is for oil. It is set at the lowest setting I'll allow the house to fall to. The boiler cannot run unless, 1. the solar tanks are cold, 2. the solar thermostat is calling for heat, but not satisfied, 3. The oil stat is calling, 4. I have switched on the boiler, just in case. All of this can be done in a remarkably simple way with two differential solar controllers (mine are both in one unit with temp readouts), a 4 zone heating control and a setpoint controller or aquastat. There are three separate fresh water loops that never mix and run at different pressures, absolutely reliable freeze protection and 5 circulators to perform all functions of collecting, heat exchanging, radiant heating and recirculating domestic hot water.

The extreme stability of the massive slab and setting it up to run at low temperatures means we can go for about a week with no solar. It rises at about 2-3 degrees per day and falls at about 1 degree per day with no solar. Last year we used no oil at all. We also have a wood stove centrally located in the great room as backup if needed. We're at 4,900' elevation in Northern Nevada so the solar input is impressive. Now that we are coming into summer we'll probably only heat the master bath floor and maybe the kitchen floor a bit. I'll run the system enough to do that and provide 100% hot water, about every other day for a few hours.

Meanwhile, we're moving in and I'm trying to sort out an electrical glitch I can't find and re-arrange the GFI breakers to satisfy the inspector. Then we'll be done except for the "optional" list.
 
   / our new home may have to be footed slab, no basement or crawlspace - input? #20  
Thanks, good sanity check on the basement closet we are giving up. Yup, we have all 36 inch doors, and virtually no vertical barriers whatsoever. Even the attached garage floor is the same elevation as the house floor (is there any giant problem with that idea?). And our laundry room is also the utility room, and there is a lot of room to set up an iron board (yes, she irons!), plus more space for storage, and a nice window.

Will code allow that? I'm building a new home and the garage floor must be 12" lower by code.

Chris
 

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