Outdoor Electrical Wiring

   / Outdoor Electrical Wiring
  • Thread Starter
#21  
Thanks everyone for all the input.
That voltage drop calculator was great!
I will only be putting two 60 watt yellow bug lights. It is for a shelter for a buck, so no need for all the appliances associated with kidding.
I appreciate all your comments.
 
   / Outdoor Electrical Wiring #22  
I would not waste my time pulling uf wire through a conduit. I would pull stranded THHN wire. It would be ten time easier to pull and THHN is rated from a higher amperage and is would be quicker to work with and cheaper. Also if you pull THHN if you need another circuit just pull another one in.

If you put in a 3/4in PVC you would have more than enough room for all the circuits you need for your goat shed.

If you share a neutral wire like in a 12-3 you have to us a 2pole breaker. It is a new code this year for the NEC. Because you would get a shock off the neutral if only one circuit is off. Also pull a ground wire and of there is no sub-panel don't drive a ground rod you will cause stray voltages.:eek:

For voltage drop I would pull #10 that would be fine for what you need and just #12 ground for code is needed.
 
   / Outdoor Electrical Wiring #23  
Also pull a ground wire and of there is no sub-panel don't drive a ground rod you will cause stray voltages.:eek:

Is the reasoning behind this because you can create two earth grounds at possibly different potentials? Just trying to understand.

Also, when I installed my elec. dryer, they provided a neutral to ground bonding bar and the instructions said 'bond if your local code requires it'. I stared at the dryer for 30 mins. and couldn't think of good reasons for either choice since I know they are tied to the same buss bar in the service panel. :(

Thanks, Dave.
 
   / Outdoor Electrical Wiring #24  
Also, when I installed my elec. dryer, they provided a neutral to ground bonding bar and the instructions said 'bond if your local code requires it'. I stared at the dryer for 30 mins. and couldn't think of good reasons for either choice since I know they are tied to the same buss bar in the service panel. :(

Thanks, Dave.

The reason dryers are set up that way is because you could be installing it in a house that was built to either the old or the new code. The old configuration had an outlet (10-30) that had L1, L2 and the neutral, in which case you bonded neutral and ground at the dryer. I've always disliked this configuration. In a house built to the new code the dryer outlet will be a (14-30) which has 4 connections L1, L2, neutral, and ground In which case you DO NOT bond neutral and ground at the dryer. Also this is why when you buy a dryer it does not come with a pigtail, they don't know which code your house was built to.
 
   / Outdoor Electrical Wiring #25  
Also pull a ground wire and of there is no sub-panel don't drive a ground rod you will cause stray voltages.:eek:

In an out building where you run a single branch circuit the code does not require a grounding rod. Could you add one, yes, the more grounding rods (connected to the grounding conductor not the grounded conductor) the better. Could that cause "stray voltages", No Absolutely NOT!!
 
   / Outdoor Electrical Wiring #26  
The reason dryers are set up that way is because you could be installing it in a house that was built to either the old or the new code. The old configuration had an outlet (10-30) that had L1, L2 and the neutral, in which case you bonded neutral and ground at the dryer. I've always disliked this configuration. In a house built to the new code the dryer outlet will be a (14-30) which has 4 connections L1, L2, neutral, and ground In which case you DO NOT bond neutral and ground at the dryer. Also this is why when you buy a dryer it does not come with a pigtail, they don't know which code your house was built to.

Thank you. That is wonderfully clear and now I have to go see which I did since I had a 50% chance of being wrong - I always lose at those odds :D
 
   / Outdoor Electrical Wiring #27  
In an out building where you run a single branch circuit the code does not require a grounding rod. Could you add one, yes, the more grounding rods (connected to the grounding conductor not the grounded conductor) the better. Could that cause "stray voltages", No Absolutely NOT!!


I am sorry about saying stray voltages. I know better than that. Stray voltages are caused when you don't seprate the neutral and the grounds in a sub-panel. If you don't it causes any stray voltages to follow any ground paths like pipes or metal.

Thanks for the correction. :eek:
 

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